86 ways to cook a buffalo

For: Alex Zurdo (text and photos)
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"The Newar know 86 different ways of cooking water buffalo ", Ro says, while drinking rice racksi like the last day of our lives.

We have to try out authentic cuisine Newar, the cuisine of the majority ethnic group of central Nepal. The Newar centuries settled in the Valley of Khatmandu, among major trade routes linking the southern plains to the highlands of Tibet. The culture that was created one of the most refined and beautiful in Asia.

In the dim light I walk with Rohit, Nepali brother, Khatmandu alleys of a disappearing.

In the dim light I walk with Rohit, Nepali brother, Khatmandu alleys of a disappearing. Hasty attended the funeral of the old city, still one of the most medieval of Asia. The modernization effort has also come to Nepal. Cement Kings have landed long, and Small, the beautiful and traditional old houses are demolished brick to make way inexorably cheap and rickety floors.

Until a few years "the Valley" makes it even was one of the most beautiful places on the planet. Then came overpopulation, destruction, cement. That's when rice fields left to the vacant place, traditional houses to ruins, Take Khatmandú moderno y la belleza.

The kitchen is different Newar, spicy and very carnivorous

If the temples and palaces newares are visible everywhere, gastronomy, however, is jealously hidden for those who do not look too closely. Facing the Nepalese cuisine, rice-based single, lentils and vegetable curries, Newar cuisine is different, spicy and very carnivorous. His dishes are not Chinese, Indian and Tibetan, and have a very strong character. Bold spice blends, innovative solutions, much spicy meat and offal everywhere. And good rice alcohol…

In our search we left Thamel, the backpackers district, and after crossing Tole Thahiti we lost in a lonely alley near Asan Tole, the old market. The "batthi" one to which we are, like all, protected by a door covering fabric. And as everyone is dirty and small. While the first bottle we racksi2 I ask why Rohit newaris bars are much dirtier than a shoe store or a grocery store. Not knowing what to say shrugs and takes a sip of rice wine.

The tacos are marinated buffalo meat after grilling on a grill. Know very itchy and mustard oil

“Sauni”, the owner, racksi filled two empty bottles of rum old Nepalese. It does from a blue plastic drum churretoso. The newaris are mad accompany alcohol with some food, so no culture clash between them and us. Rather much affinity. On the table we have three metal plates of choyla3, batta4 y from my achar5. Choyla certainly is my favorite. The tacos are marinated buffalo meat after grilling on a grill. Know very itchy and mustard oil, Szechuan pepper and cilantro. I burn the mouth but racksi appeases me while I get drunk.

In the local wooden furniture, a counter full of bowls of food, and a solitary man begins to be drunk. Avalokiteshvara, the "Buddha of Compassion" is watching us from a wall. Each bit comes another walker rushed, asks for a glass and filled racksi, after rush in 10 seconds, disappears at night.

More temples newares in the alleys and old houses that are no longer where they used

A fourth bottle has relaxed conversation and legs become loose. As the laughter. We continue our "pilgrimage", so we turn to start. More temples newares in the alleys and old houses that are no longer where they used.

We entered another tavern near Indra Chowk. The same fabric to enter, parishioners surprised them, sparkling eyes, dirt and warmth. We get the "best table" above a mezzanine. The newaris are a society that loves to eat carnivorous and viscera. So the time has come. More racksi, and covers. Tisio (buffalo spine, baked and fried) and a plate of Jibro (fried buffalo tongue). The tongue is tasty, slightly crunchy, with onions and roasted peppers. Spina I like a little less. Our mouths asleep by chilies, but we trasegando racksi and offal.

The Harati is a neat and nice picnic, frequented by families and groups of friends

I can hardly more, But Rohit is emboldened, and I propose to go to the Harati. I have not the courage to say no, undo what has been done so, We cross Thamel and go into Paknajol. The Harati is a neat and nice picnic, frequented by families and groups of friends. I've been here many times, and Newar food is the best of the capital.

I can not handle more meat or more bowel, so we ordered a Chatanmari, Pizza of the Newar, and a heaping plate of Aloo Tama Boddhi6. I like. The server comes with a "andi" full of Ayelaa, rice wine similar to brandy. We pours liquor and saying "Gambe!"Emptied glasses of a drink.

Are 9 of the night and we are surrounded by drunks. Actually we are one more. The Newar foraging has been a success, so drunk and happy undertake the withdrawal through alleys and courtyards. The old man dies Khatmandu, but the food is excellent health Newar…

Recipe: Chatanmari

The Chatanmari is the "pizza of Newar". This is a base of rice flour and water, spicy beef topped with an egg and curd. Easy and very rich!!
Ingredients (no exact quantities)
For mass
Rice flour
Water
Pinch of salt
For coverage
Ground beef or water buffalo…
Ginger-garlic paste
Ground cumin
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Chopped cilantro
1 egg

Preparation
First make the dough by mixing the flour with water and salt. It should be quite liquid mass. Let it stand a few minutes.
Meanwhile mix the meat with garlic-ginger, salt, pepper, cumin and coriander. Book.
Place a tawa (borderless flat skillet) to heating oil with a pinch. When hot pour a ladle of dough. You can make the size you prefer to, but it better be small because then you'll have to cover it.
Put the meat mixture with your hand over the dough, crack the egg over the meat and salt. Add more drops of oil on the edges to prevent sticking and roast well. Cover with a lid that does not crush the egg (for example a perfect cover tajine), and leave it until the egg is set and cooked meat. Yum, yum…

Notes;

1- Batthi – Bar newar
2- Racksi – Rice or millet wine
3- Choyla – Meat marinated buffalo
4 – Batta – Boiled soybeans
5 – Since I Achar – Spicy Pickled Turnip
6 – Aloo Tama Bodhi – Potato Stew, bamboo shoots and bean veneer

Notebooks Oriental Kitchen

http://cocinaorientalgurumasala.blogspot.com/

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Comments (4)

  • Ann

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    I love this blog!

    Answer

  • Patron

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    I pointed the recipe for the holidays. Great. Khatmandu is an unforgettable place and in your words what I have seen in a new way. Next time I get into these restaurants. Thanks

    Answer

  • Alex

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    Patron, thank you very much for reading. One, Khatmandu city is wonderful! Hugs!

    Answer

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