Cape Taenarum: at the gates of Hades

For: Iago Pineiro (Beatriz photos Villalta)
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The foothills of Taigeto descend gently, forming a kind of rolling hills, until its southernmost tip sinks, finally, in waters of Mediterranean. Gone are the high elevations, deep cracks between the mountains and the rugged and inaccessible crags, which become replaced by more circular and smooth shapes, you sedate, whose slopes emerge directly, without ado, of the Sea, a limpid blue and effulgent.

Up, on one of these hills, the rise Mianes towers and Aghriokambii, most of them now abandoned. These old stone towers, so characteristic of all Mani, They could be considered the symbol, the hallmark, throughout the region. The old stones that were built this kind of miniature skyscrapers, quadrangular, elongated shapes, fortified with thick walls and, in some cases, crowned small guns and artillery, They talk about the multitude of internecine conflicts that were one of the emblems of the latter region Peloponnesus, in the years when the old masters nyklianos, heirs of hodgepodge emerged between the past glories of Byzantium and subsequent occupation franca Morea, large-scale war became another in a kind of vendettas. The cause usually underlay such conflicts was the need or desire to take over a territory imposed on the rival families, in this land so unproductive, barren and difficult for survival, little given to agriculture or livestock, as not a few goats or sheep.

The old towers speak of the multitude of internecine conflicts that were one of the emblems of the latter Peloponnese region

Multiple migrations from the north coming from the times of ancient Sparta -when between the late third century to early second A.C. many unhappy Spartans or forced by the tyrant Nabis, last independent king, They headed south, the current Mani, where establecieron-, through migrations caused by the invasion of the Peloponnese by Alarico and Visigoths, Bulgarians and Slavs those, Frank tenure after Fourth Crossed-during which step Mani to become the Feudo Villehardouin—, civil wars during the years of the reinstated Byzantine Empire, until the subsequent Turkish disaster in the fifteenth century; They propitiated the birth of such conflicts, to go overpopulating increasingly with new immigrants and refugees earth itself arid and rocky, hardly cultivable, in which the only note of green on the monotony of brown and gray stones is set for a cluster of prickly pears, a few olive trees, a few thistles and some sporadic bougainvillea, that, probably, under diligent care, survives, growing on the walls of a house. However, They were perhaps these same internal conflicts so frequent that made the maniotas formidable warriors, which they did not hesitate to unite under a single banner in times of need, eg, to deal with the invasion of the Turks, who during his nearly four centuries of occupation, They never managed to completely subjugate the region.

The only note of green on the monotony of brown and gray stones is set for a cluster of prickly pears, a few olive trees, a few thistles and some sporadic bougainvillea

From these same towers Aghriokambi, silent witnesses of the flow of the years since its privileged position high, leaves a narrow path, which it is directed towards the south crossing over the hills, satin mantle covered with dry grass and stones, direction after. Westward, They appreciated, forming a splendid palette of blue light, intermingled with white foam fleeting and enlightening and effulgent light of a sunbeam passing therethrough and causing a momentary flash of light, Mediterranean waters, beating softly, a kind of warm and lulling murmur, on the rocks, at the foot of the slope. To the south, in the distance, on the horizon, merging into a whole ethereal, immense and shapeless, sea ​​and sky meet. One has the feeling of being on the prow of a huge ship.

It is this path that one reaches the southernmost point of mainland Greece all: the Cape Taenarum, on which a lighthouse stands, elongated quadrangular. These latter rocks Taigeto, que se dog, forming a tight release, in the waters of the Mediterranean, maintain that aura of calm, myth and mystery that characterizes those regions still unfrequented and loaded with such mythical and legendary past; a past that the mind struggles to imagine and try to "recompose".

This path one reaches the southernmost point of mainland Greece all: Cape Tenaro, where ancient Greeks placed one of the entrances to the underworld, Hades

Is here, in these last to foothills of Taygetos, on the west side of Cape, where ancient Greeks placed one of the entrances to the underworld, Hades. It was to this cave, mouth of hell, to where the unfortunate walked Psyche, advised by the tower itself from which sought to throw seeking death-and must have acquired the gift of speech touched perhaps by the beauty of the girl, to go into the depths of the realm of the dead: “ (…) Not far from here a noble city Acy, that it's called Lacedemonia; near this city looking for a mount called Taenarum, which is secluded in remote locations. On this mountain is a door of hell (…) ”ii; pretending thus fulfill the task of Aphrodite herself Mother also unhappy Eros, which he had captivated the young Psyche and had fallen ill after suffering a desengaño-, He had commanded him, towards a road that would restore the lost beauty trying to heal his son.

In these rocky shores and inlets also it placed an important place of worship for the ancient Spartans. A few meters from the current Kokinoghia, Avista that clear and close on the east side of Cape, the bottom of the small Porto Bay Sternes, the remains of an ancient temple dedicated to still are today Poseidon, turn raised on the remains of another devoted to Apolo in times micénicos. This temple was a place of vital importance to the Spartans and the seat of an oracle which could establish contact with the dead; refugees also came to him for refuge, due to the inviolability of the location. Pausanias, in his Description of Greece, It refers to an event here happened, when certain lacedemonios sentenced to death came seeking refuge in this sanctuary but, however, They were killed by their pursuers. This provoked the wrath of God, that struck Sparta with a terrible earthquake which left no stone unturned. Later, during the Byzantine era, the temple was converted into a church, whose ruins still remain standing and half, Today, remains a place of worship. Inside, placed around and on a crude altar formed by a few large stones, They could be seen as different votive cigarettes, small oil bottles, lighters, money or remains of candles, that, added to the gloom of the place and the knowledge of its dark past, They helped create an atmosphere somewhat gloomy and disturbing, as opposed to clear and bright day that reigned abroad.

A few meters from the current Kokinoghia, the bottom of the small bay of Porto Sternes, still they find the remains of an ancient temple dedicated to Poseidon

A few meters from the ruins parking is. Here ends the road coming from the North, descending the isthmus formed between Marmari and port Kagio, to discourse then, as a language of asphalt or carpet unrolled curvilinearly, at the foot of the eastern slope of Taygetus. By, in the margins of the road, They stand the few houses that make up the small town of Kokinoghia, among which is a tavern; From the terrace, located in a sort of soportal few meters above ground level, They offer splendid views of the entire cape and the bay of Porto Sternes, with smooth contours and undulated, and in which small recesses are formed sedate coves, deserted, lined with a blanket of white pebbles, smooth, rounded, extending the foot of large silver mirror forming water. Drinks, descending down the throat, papery and thirsting, like a stream that was making its way through an arid and dusty land, They provided such a pleasure to find an oasis in the desert. High in the sky, near its zenith, the torrid sun sent rays of light and heat, who came to crash on earth, on the outskirts of the shadow of the terrace, as a kind of fortress under enemy fire.

Westward, shaken by a blazing sun, the slopes of Taygetos are gradually gaining height and tilt, to the point where Mianes towers sit and Aghriokambi, so near and far at the same time. Continuing north, Koureli towers will stand, proud and inaccessible, on its rocky promontory, rising above the Vathi Bay, with crystal clear water.

Continuing north, Koureli towers will stand, proud and inaccessible, on its rocky promontory, rising over the bay of Vathi

Observing this panorama of deep contrasts, intermingled land and water, plains of silver combined with moors rock serrate ridges, a small shadow under way; silence and torpor of noon, when the earth itself seems to be in a kind of lethargy and no living dare travel the roads, make the notion of time seems to be diluted in an immense and infinite blue contours.

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Comments (3)

  • hilde2008

    |

    Hello, I wanted to ask you something, ¿Cape Tenaro is the Cape Matapan?
    I wait your answer, thanks

    Answer

  • Iago

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    Hello. Yes, is the same.

    Answer

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