Cameroon: Waza giraffes

For: Enrique Vaquerizo (text and photos)
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Everyone has told me not to go to Waza, is not the time, the grass is high, there is water everywhere and the animals do not leave their hidden quagmires, that at this time the elephants migrating north and the park is semi. I've been told the guides, managers of hotels, City expats, licking ilustrísimo of Oudjilah, and even a little old lady who sold peanuts on the street made me an expert comment on why his view lions at this time of year is a bit sleepy in the morning.

Councils around the world tend to look me crap

As the tips everyone I often seem idioteces, and despite having convinced themselves that it, that already from animals, that by this time in Cameroon we are going to limit the discoveries ethnic, Africa and ancient cultures ... to hang out with people we, I can not help it and every time I hear of a nature the pupils dilate me with a feverish gleam ludópata. And here we are, I've spent a paste, which had accumulated the previous weeks, with tiny portions of grilled chicken and sleeping on buses for not catching hotels. I hit game of roulette, all red, expected Waza Park.

Apparently Waza located in the Far North of Cameroon in their months reasonable credited a well-deserved reputation as one of the most complete parks in West Africa. In fact welcomes big five "Nothing to envy parks in East Africa", so says my guide rather bombastic Cameroon.

I have driver, 4×4 and an entire morning at my disposal to try their luck on the tracks that are not blocked owing to the rainy season. The journey from Maroua five hours, on a road full of potholes that could devour a trailer. As we will see lots of animals out early, at two in the morning. The journey becomes an eternal game of dodging game, sheep, Bicycle and holes. Abdou is my driver, is happy, and between bump and pothole's telling me snippets of his life.

The journey becomes an eternal game of dodging game, sheep, Bicycle and holes

It used to be in Douala driver working for a rich lawyer, but Abdou is Muslim must pray five times a day, one day his boss gave him a choice between prayer and work, Allah chose Abdou and spend Mondays in the Sun. But before, after the dismissal even though his boss had been paying him home, food and a generous salary for years made sure to get every last franc with dirty extorting businesses he supposed performing with customers. With compensation a car bought in Maroua, and sent his mother to Mecca one month, the illusion of life, It assures me that next year he will. Believes that we will not see anything in Waza. Abdou is a nice guy and a great driver.

When we got to the park I have Waza spine as a temperature spike and despite being the round seven o'clock and 35 degrees. At the entrance there are bungalows and bolted closed. Abdou picks his teeth with a toothpick, her face betrays an annoying attitude of "I told you," and start to really escamarme. Finally after knocking on the doors of the office, the park manager effusive welcomes us and assures me that I will see great things in Waza ... If I have luck! Add playful. Then he starts clapping and depths of your table, as if he lived in a drawer between the stapler and filing emerges one viejecito, apparently was sleeping on the floor, gummy is shaking and asks the manager who wants. This presents me as Philipe, an institution in the park, Philipe yawns, the tongue is passed through the lips and smiles, is my guide.

Abdou picks his teeth with a toothpick, her face betrays an annoying attitude of "I told you," and start to really escamarme

Well here we are, direction at random, Abdou, Philipe y yo, Marx brothers willing to explore the park. I look forward to the car window and drooling like a puppy but they are responsible stoop enthusiasm soon. In his opinion we are not out early enough and the animals must be hidden and, seriously doubt we see anything.

Not if they are hidden or not because the height of the grass might be unknowingly crossing Times Square, rolling the car wobbles on its way all the bushes to find as we get into a jungle of forage. Not if elephants, buffalo Waza lions but in that case would, without realizing the atropellaríamos. No trace of large African mammals, to change every time we open the window, climb aboard all insects of the savanna; wasps, praying mantis flies and malaria, hover around us while the scares slaps Abdou. When I'm seriously considering the possibility to rip his head off an ant giant to hang in my living room as a trophy, I remember the park, we reached the lookout only practicable in Waza. The outlook is bleak there, a tower watches over a lake at some other time must have been a hive of life but right now is the utter wasteland.

The outlook is bleak there, a tower watches over a lake at some other time must have been a hive of life but right now is the utter wasteland

The next two hours pass as an endless loop. Shrubs, heat, insects, Disenchantment and more heat. Not if the reader has ever experienced the feeling of traveling without animal park. Although we have heard that no one says you see wildlife, that nature is unpredictable, bla, bla, bla, as time goes by the sense of frustration is increasing, one hits the nose of the car window, searching the undergrowth nauseum, confused elephant rocks and branches moved by the wind with furtive lions. A natural park without animals is like having tickets to a European Cup final and reach the minute 89 with 0 a 0. There is something wistful childhood, the water leaving the camels Three Kings Day in the act of visiting a park. I for one was for seven years fruitlessly chasing shadows night humps in January.

After three hours of going in circles I decide that enough is enough and we lined the way out. Reflecting on my stubbornness, missed opportunities and neglected tips when Philipe us again motioned for us to shut. Ralentizamos a bit boring the engine, and he commands us that we stop the car. I turned my head and sticks to glass, I see nothing at first, it just faded foliage all morning but ..... suddenly something moves and it seems that it is the wind, a tiny little head lost in the weeds. Giraffes!, my heart is beating again a mile a minute , I've never seen giraffes!

I leave the car dancing, almost drunk and I get on a mound of stones. A thousand crowned heads emerge

Carefully move the car trying not to make too much noise. And if, there are undoubtedly, appearing and disappearing as fin whales in the ocean, but .... A, two, three, a forest of four elongated necks looking at us with curiosity. I leave the car dancing, almost drunk and I get on a mound of stones. A thousand challenging crowned heads emerge from the vastness of the savannah.

Africa is well, one desperate days, weeks, shit, swallow dust, suffer endless waiting to feel the ticking of your own heart aging, all to track an unmatched gem, a magical moment that leaves you breathless. And this invariably arrives, faithful to the appointment appears on goal in the last minute, that makes you take off your shirt and wave to the stands knowing that ultimately pay the money has paid the entry: the furious sunsets, nonsensical talks, Bursts of color ... unexpected moments that will shine even more in the future aquilatados by time. I find myself to be one of those moments and savoring. Under the mound and I am after ignoring warnings Philipe, although there are not lions being the bushes. They pass around me elegant and majestic, There is abundant offspring, sparingly graze leaves high in the trees, I think right now the most beautiful animal in Africa.

Back with Abdou and Philippe, greet me with a smile, contemplate them in silence for a while and suddenly I feel good in Waza. I sense that in safaris as being happy in life is a matter of expectations. We got in the car and start our way back while giraffes are lost in the hot sun, away, far across the savannah.

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Comments (8)

  • Lydia

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    I loved the story and how to tell. All comparisons, the things you are going through your head, explain how the illusions, emotions…It's great! I have entered a mad desire to read more things of yours.

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  • Enrique Vaquerizo

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    Comments and encouraged to continue writing, Thank you Lydia! In the news section without Ithaca you will find more articles of mine

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  • Javier Brandoli

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    What can I say that I am one of the plays I read or edit any post on this project: Vaquerizo has the gift of telling things, a donation.

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  • Enrique Vaquerizo

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    And with this quota We passed the compliments, more coming from a man comes. I've told you several times but I repeat. A pleasure to write here and learn from you.

    A hug Javier

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  • Daniel Landa

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    I join the general impression. Brave, Enrique!!! one great story, perfect dissection of the Africa hidden in parks.

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  • Lydia Peiró

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    After discovering the writer in you to read this story, I have been reading articles like yours and says Javier Brandoli, have. a donation.

    Answer

  • manoli

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    Hello, I have you everything you write and I'll esque Cameroon next December. I was told to go to the Waza park is very dangerous and I wish you'd tell me if Verda. I also aconsejarasobre a good guide in Douala. Muchisimas gracias.u n greeting from Madrid

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