The shaman of the village of Santa Rosa de Huacaria sent me a message that could finally meet me. Before he had been unable, as his elderly mother "went to the river and it became a bird".
We headed to the northwest of the country to visit the Parque de los Nevados, a series of spectacular volcanoes covered with perpetual snow. But our destination was farther south, in the Valley of cocora, where palm trees grow to giant 3.000 meters