Era, perhaps, the best representative of that great generation of French climbers. He had been part of the expedition to Annapurna, where he played a key role in both the triumph and the subsequent dramatic retreat.
The history of the conquest of the great mountains of the world would suffer a dramatic turnaround. Today we are able to say that those years involved a golden age in the conquest of the highest mountains on Earth.
It is one of the times that prelude, sin only porteadores, very light material and greenfield. Perhaps because of this, or also for being an iconoclast with a fine sense of humor and hurtful- is so late would be replaced by Colonel John Hunt as head of the British expedition in 1953 achieved up to Everest.
Sebastián Álvaro (Photo S. Alvaro and E. M. Piso)
"By then it was almost normal for someone to fall Sundays. Monday was the rescue and Thursday, burial. And then we used to be for the next weekend to do some route", recordaba Anderl Heckmair, the winner of the Eiger North.
Day 8 June, magnificent weather, left the last camp, located 8.168 meters, to the summit. The two were last seen at about one o'clock above the second step "forward resolutely" to the top. Since then, the mystery enveloped the two climbers.