Flanders to Brussels: the route of Emperor Charles

For: Ricardo Coarasa (text and photos)
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Adorning facades of historic buildings, chiselled spectacular fireplaces, rooted in popular celebrations and traditions that still exist or newly minted festivals, admirable and portrayed in stained glass, even, Brands in covers of beer. Belgium has not forgotten Charles V and touring his native region, Flanders, and the city where he spent more time, Brussels, the traveler can recreate much of his life and, at the same time, enjoy a route that, in just four or five days, will take you through some of the most beautiful parts of the country.

From the Brussels airport, a train leads us to Bruges in a leaden morning (time is not negotiable) in just hour and a half. Nothing more set foot on its cobbled streets, City immerses you in a medieval atmosphere that captivates you hopeless and invites you to walk restlessly. Two more stark towers above all the urban fabric: in Belfort, symbol of municipal autonomy, and, especially, Tower Church of Our Lady, which since its 115 meters high dominates Bruges.

Touring his native region, Flanders, and the city where he spent more time, Brussels, you can recreate much of his life

The temple is closely linked with the emperor Carlos, because there buried her maternal grandmother, Mary of Burgundy. The same, in his first will, the 1522, He wanted to be buried here if death surprised him in Flemish lands. In an urn beside the grave of his grandmother also lies the heart of his father, Philip "the Handsome", He moved to Bruges after his death in Burgos, in 1506, Following the Burgundian tradition.

In the majestic plaza Burg, the administrative heart of the city, statues of Charles and Philip II are among the fifty that punctuate, four rows, the Gothic facade of the City (the third and fourth, from left to right, located in the second row from the bottom), although the original did not survive the French Revolution. On one side, corner, the basilica is of the Holy Blood. To the right of the main entrance, Carlos and his wife, Isabel of Portugal, We looked at from two medallions.

Bruges in a church is buried the heart of his father, Philip "the Handsome"

Also in the square, the seat of the old Franconato Bruges (Liberty of Bruges) custody which, probably, more surprising is the legacy of Charles V in the city: a spectacular oak fireplace, marble and alabaster Blondeel Lanceloot dedicated to the emperor 1528 to liberate Flanders from the last feudal ties with France. In the same room, protected by an urn, terracotta bust exhibited a very young Carlos.

Twenty minutes by train from Bruges separate Ghent, the most dazzling surprise Route. Forced to sleep here to enjoy the pleasure of watching night fall over pasearla illuminated canals and seduced by the magic of its night life. For those who go here tracking the memory of the Emperor, Ghent is the city where it all began. Here he was born Carlos V, it seems that by a quirk of his grandfather, Maximilian of Austria, he had met his future wife here, Mary of Burgundy, and endeavored to move the court from Brussels to here happy birth should occur.

Ghent, where the emperor was born, It is the most stunning surprise of the route

Carlos V has a statue in Ghent, the figure stands in front of the Hall and the bust flies popularly known as House of Crowned Heads, but all the locals just do not keep a good memory of his countryman, who would not forgive in 1540 suffocate the rebellion mercilessly for refusing to pay more taxes to fund the endless campaigns of Charles and ended with their municipal privileges.

Two of the humiliations inflicted in person still persist. On the one hand, He ordered the bell pick Belfort, la Roeland, Ghent symbol of autonomy, and a replica today still adorns the surrounding gardens. Other, He forced a citizen entourage, on behalf of all its estates, to procesionar to his palace, Clad in mourning, barefoot and with a rope around his neck, as a sign of repentance.

The Gentenaars not forget the humiliation inflicted Carlos V to harshly punishing the rebellion of the city 1540

This latest affront, abochornar away from the Gentenaars, He has given them eventually their hallmark, They not in vain are known as "stroppendragers" (those carrying the rope). And in its festivities, the Gentenaars one rope girded with the colors of the city (black and white) -his particular tissue of San Fermin- and adorn the statue of the emperor in Prinsenhof (donated a few years ago by the City of Toledo) with a rope around his neck.

It is precisely the former Court of the Prince most evokes the figure of Carlos. The last vestige of the palace where he was born is the Puerta Oscura, which they are carved the names of the condemned in revolt 1540. And a few minutes walking to the side of the channel on Lieve towards the district of Patershol, in the shadow of the castle of the counts of Flanders, We arrived at the number 6 the Vrouwebroersstraat, Formerly a Carmelite convent, converted into an exhibition hall (Provincial Cultural Caermersklooster), where his mother, Princess Juana, They gave the first contractions of labor.

The former Carmelite convent where Juana "la Loca" went into labor is now an exhibition hall

The 24 February 1500 Carlos was born and was baptized in the church of San Juan, today Saint Bavo Cathedral, but no longer retains neither the baptismal font. The treasure of this temple is another: Adoration of the Mystic Lamb by Van Eyck, pride of Ghent.

In the ever-vibrant Vrijdagmarkt, the "Dulle Griet" boasts 350 types of beer. In the window, confused between the legion of bottles, a jar with four handles and a legend, «Charles Quint». The Emperor, very fond of this drink, it seems that claimed more the better to drink it handles comfortably getting to an inn without getting off the horse.

Mechelen, where still stands the palace where he spent much of his childhood, reminds him especially with his famous beer Gouden Carolus

Mechelen, where the emperor was raised by his aunt Margaret of Austria, Governor of the Netherlands, from seven to 15 years, is our next stop. Again we choose the train, which brings us to our destination in just one hour. The rain here shown Inclement, but does not prevent us from enjoying its stately main square, big Mark, in projecting the current City, during childhood Carlos was the seat of the Cloth Hall, inside which is a fireplace with the shield of the emperor and one of the twelve sent weaving tapestries to commemorate the Battle of Tunis (which owes its excellent preservation happened two hundred years forgotten in an attic).

Walking under the arcades, we got to the church of San Pedro and San Pablo. Glued to the temple is what remains standing of the Palace of Margaret of York, the wife of Charles the Bold, great-grandfather of the future emperor. It seems that it was here where he spent much of his childhood, and not the Renaissance palace of Margaret of Austria, Located directly opposite and Court today, who still wears the shield of Carlos V.

In the church of San Gumaro in the small town of Lier, Princess Juana and Felipe "el Hermoso" got married

But the beer is perhaps the most entertaining way you have to remind Mechelen. And it does so through the prestigious Gouden Carolus, pride Het Anker brewery, at Kranken, that in times of the emperor he manufactured one of his favorite beers, la Mech Elsen Bruynen.

A 15 kilometers of Malines, in the small town of Lier, they married parents of Carlos, Juana of Castile and Philip the Handsome, a 20 October 1496. Next to the Nete, old Corte de Malines (Court of Mechelen) where the newlyweds spent their wedding night has been since Brewery, textile factory and school and already month to reconvert, respecting the facade, in an exclusive luxury residential building.

The Corte of Malines, where Juana and Philip spent their wedding night, soon it will house eight luxury apartments

Behind, Aragon bridge leads to the Church of San Gumaro, where there was the link (It is closed in winter, but worth seeing its five windows which include both the emperor and his parents and paternal grandparents). Apparently, on the wedding night many onlookers crowded around the Inn of the Abbot, the Abtsherberg, a Cistercian hostel where the banquet was held (situated on the same street Aragon), the bridge ended up giving. Juana, Flanders had come from Laredo, He spent three days in the city and never returned. But a year before leaving for Spain to take the oath as king, a teenager Carlos visited in Lier 1516 to know where their parents were married.

Forty-five kilometers separate us from Brussels, last stop on our route. In the Belgian capital are only archaeological remains of the palace inhabited Carlos V, but a commendable effort Administration has made it possible to go, in the bowels of the Palais Royal and the Royal Square, what little remains of the Coudenberg Palace (which takes its name from the hill overlooking the city), destroyed by fire in 1731, the former Court where the emperor spent more time than anywhere else. Del Aula Magna, where 1515 He was sworn in as the new lord of the Netherlands and where, half a century later, He abdicated in his son Philip II, only kitchens and inferior services are preserved, and four fireplaces.

Coudenberg allows visiting the remains scarce archaeological tour of the ancient palace where he lived Carlos V

Down through the gardens of Mont des Arts and crossing the place de l'Albertine arrived within minutes to the marrow of the old Brussels, the Grand Place, where, despite the tourist bustle, with a little patience we can keep track of the emperor. Right in front of the City, two statues of Charles and his grandmother Maria preside over the facade of the House of the King, Old Market of the Pan and today City Museum), in gratitude for the concessions granted to this guild. In the square, on the facade of Maison des Ducs de Brabant succeed, between gilded columns, the busts of the Dukes of Brabant, including those of Charles V and his son Philip II.

Although genuine family album of Emperor is in the St. Gudula Cathedral, by windows whose parading many of his relatives. Before entering, It should stop at its south facade, for which used to access the temple, and look for the frieze of K sculpted in stone, I had an unequivocal recipient: Karolus. In this temple they were held in 1558, chaired by Felipe II, the funerals of the emperor, a funeral procession unprecedented in the city.

Genuine family album of Emperor is in the windows of the cathedral of St. Gudula, Brussels

From a more playful perspective, A few years ago Brussels celebrates in style, May to September, the Charles 5 Festival, a succession of festivities claiming the figure of the emperor as a forerunner of a united Europe and have their plate strong in commemoration of the Ommegang, Welcome parade Carlos V and Felipe II 1549, It returned to the city for a few hours time flamenco emperor who reigned over Europe.

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