The valley of death

For: Gerardo Bartolomé (text and photos)
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I must confess that I was not prepared to place. He had seen the spectacular photos Talampaya and Ischigualasto and decided that, when we passed through the area, desviaríamos us to see both parks. On the way I did not pay much attention when my wife read in a guide that February was the rainy season. "Rain in the desert? It can not be much ", thought. We travel.

Maybe I should have worried when we passed a place where the water had been part of the way. We travel.

We arrived at the hotel and we settled. We were en route to Chile with a pretty tight schedule, so you would have one day to visit the two parks. A sacrilege. The plan was to leave early the next day to begin at the Valley of the Moon. His real name is Ischigualasco, diaguita language that means "place of death". For the afternoon we stopped at another national park, Talampaya. I did not know, but that name means "dry river logging (South American tree)”.

We were the only. "What's going on?”, I wondered. "It is closed by rain the day before yesterday", I was told.

When we were opening the door Valley of the Moon. We were the only. "What's going on?”, I wondered. In the administration were rangers. "It is closed by rain the day before yesterday", I was told. Surprise Me, but I explained that in certain parts of the park that makes up the sandstone soil is impermeable and form gaps in the road. "And Talampaya?”, I asked. "Worse. There the road is a dry river. "With the rain the river ceases to be so dry…

I was told that evening perhaps open Ischigualasto. Talampaya, hopefully, the next day. I would have to reschedule my trip and a day delay. The alternative was perdérmelos. No way!

To take advantage of the morning I recommended a book nearby villager called Chiflón. "Why the bird?”, asked. "On the Wind", I answered.
The Reserve Chiflón was a great find. With a more green or Ischigualasto Talampaya, also presents interesting shapes sculpted by erosion, Clearly, on a smaller scale. One normally would think that those columns were produced by wind, but not so. The main factor that caused erosion (and still does) is water. The few 200 millimeters per year in the region fall into three or four storms in late summer. The slope and impermeable soil make, in minutes, water is channeled into rivers that sweep everything.

The main factor is water erosion. The few 200 millimeters per year in the region fall into three or four storms in late summer

Another interesting point Chiflón is abundant evidence of ancient indigenous presence. Aborigines were swept in the region for almost 400 years, but there we saw her in stone mortars, as if they had been just weeks before.

In the afternoon we returned to Ischigualasto. "Closed. Perhaps we open tomorrow ", I answered.

Luckily the next day we go, although not all the circuit was enabled. Ischigualasto, or The Valley of the Moon, is a great place in both senses of the word, as you can see in the pictures. The white landscape with amazing ways made us believe we were on the earth satellite. Another factor that stands out is the lack of life. Its native name reflects: "Place of death". But it was not always so. Million years ago were lower Andes and the Pacific moist air generated a fertile. The place was full of life. Witnessed by the dozens of dinosaur skeletons that scientists have found. Erosion exposed the Triassic soil with traces of extinct fauna impressive.

Million years ago were lower Andes and the Pacific moist air generated a fertile. The valley of death was full of life

When we finished the tour, the chief of the guards told me that would be opening Talampaya afternoon. We went thither swift.
While this national park is close to the previous, the soil is completely different. In Talampaya everything is a red clay that retains more water. This habitat kinder indigenous life possible is proved by the many petroglyphs, some dating back almost 2.000 years old. The drawings speak of beliefs and rituals that could not be understood even.

The road runs through a water pit cut into the red clay of the plateau. The route passes through the dry river (not always so dry) whose sides are full of ghostly forms. One of the most attractive is a plateau wall, somehow, reminds Holy Family Barcelona. They call The Cathedral. A flock of parrots flew ravines to our feed, dodging ancient columns. Finally, the path end facing another of the monumental known as natural sculptures The Monk. The photos may recognize.

Rush to the lack of time we had to leave the place without losing a minute. We headed west, Before us, the impressive Nevado de Famatina dominion that we should cross the mountains on our way to Chile. We continue our journey.

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