Estancia Cristina: coordinates of loneliness

For: Gerardo Bartolomé (text and photos)
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I went in search of marine fossils that he knew were in the middle of the Andes. They were three hours of browsing the Lago Argentino, one of the world's most incredible. ¿Porqué? Because it looks like a squid, supported with an oval body in the desert steppe and its tentacles into the heart of the Andes glaciers fabulous finish.
The ship passed through the narrow call Garganta del Diablo, the portal which marks the entrance to the fjord mountain. A wind of endless rage reminded us why that name as inauspicious.

The navigation took us through enormous icebergs from the Upsala, one of those who suffer most from global warming. But I'll play that issue later in this blog.
Atracamos. "Welcome to Estancia Cristina", The guide told us this area is now part of Glacier National Park. I quickly got into an SUV to take me to see these fossils that spoke of a time when the mountains and ice fields were the bottom of the sea until, hundred million years ago, the ground began to lift, as wrinkles and the slow drift of South America westward.

It seemed as if a disaster had struck these species, almost as if it were an antediluvian Pompeii.

The fossils were there before my eyes. Improntas de Caracoles y belemnites (ancient relatives of squid). Tens ... It seemed as if a catastrophe were surprised these species, almost as if it were an antediluvian Pompeii.

In the room was too much to see in one day, so my wife, biologist, continued to walk through the valley of the fossils while I carried me know the past of the pioneers who founded the Estancia Cristina; but before I got on the lookout to take a few minutes admiring the ice fields that separate Argentina from Chile.
Jopseph Percival Masters was a bold man, early twentieth century, took his family from England to the remote Patagonia to try their luck. He settled in the port Rio Gallegos. Things were not good there but, somehow, learned that the Argentine government gave enormous benefits to the pioneers who dared to populate, inland, the newly conquered Patagonia. No doubt, theirs was a corner, surrounded by mountains, ice and lake water; to days of any inhabited place. Stay of 22.000l acres was named "Cristina", the name of his daughter.

Stay prospered by the good prices paid for wool England Patagonia. Over the years Joseph, and Cristina his wife died. He was the son alive, Joseph Herbert. The guides took me to meet your most prized possession: radio. Herbert was ham and from the corner of the world were contacted with people from all continents as attested cards stuck on the wall. It was also his collection of English and American magazines were brought once a year, by the same ship that carried his precious wool production.

The foreman took him several hours to send a message of help and support and a helicopter arrived too late to save her life.

Afternoon, as we shared a matte around a campfire, the guides told me the end of history. Towards the decade of 80, age and the distance he played a trick on the old and Herbert. He felt a terrible pain in the chest, infarction. Needed a doctor ... the closest was in the village Calafate but nobody in the room knew how to handle radio Herbert. The, as a good amateur, never let anyone touch their communications equipment. The foreman took him several hours to send a message of help and support and a helicopter arrived too late to save her life.

My wife was already back with their long journey, the evening progressed, When approached again El Calafate... The visit ended. When was about to bounce, almost in passing, one of the guides I mentioned how livestock. “¿Cimarrón?”, I asked. In the remote valleys of the ranch is won, but not any cattle. The remoteness of all allowed, isolated from any mixture, survive old native cattle heads, direct descendant of the first to arrive at Rio de la Plata in colonial times. A photo of these long-horned bulls was something I could not lose, but ... "are more than three hours riding", ruling that the guide told me that image lost.

The Esperanza. It was clear they were too much for a day. I will have to Estancia Cristina. For those who feel nostalgia for places that have not visited, here are the coordinates of Estancia Cristina, in case you want to find this place of solitude in Google Earth:
> S 49gr 57min 49seg
> Or 73gr 7min 37seg

Contacto@GerardoBartolome.com
Gerardo Bartolome is traveler and writer. To learn more about him and his work go to www.GerardoBartolome.com

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Comments (11)

  • Paula

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    I'm glad you give us the coordinates! Thanks for your interesting stories Gerardo

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  • sergio

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    Hi Gerardo: I really liked the narration of the trip and visit to Estancia Cristina and surroundings. That area really holds its own, hidden deep in the mysteries of geography and history.-

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  • Gerardo Bartolomé

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    Thanks for the comments. The mountainous area bordering the Inland Ice has not yet been fully explored. There are archaeological or fossil to be discovered. Not to mention extinct animals… as the last mylodon… ha ha That's for my next book to be published in 60 days.

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  • mabel

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    How beautiful is this,Gerardo!!!While the lake that you describe when you say that Argentina seems a squid, I can imagine and it's great, very, very interesting that all accounts, and truth, I would love to do what you do you do,congratulations for this blog,very good idea, 're very generous to share this, thanks!!

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  • Ana Elisa

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    Hello friend, I am also a writer and traveler. but sometimes I paint and exxpongo, I'm Mediation and broadcast journalism in southern Patagonia, precisely in Rio Gallegos, Santa Cruz, by Am 830, Radio L.U.14 Pcia. Santa Cruz, is a weekly, We now break and returned to air in March. I liked your story about Estancia Cristina. Light a hug.

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  • Gustavo

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    Congratulations Gerardo. I saved your excellent comments in the mind and the coordinates in the GPS. Someday I will be there. As always, impeccable.

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  • Gerardo Bartolomé

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    Gustavo:
    Long you want to make the journey from Patagonia, in? Maybe you add you when I start to organize groups in caravan.
    Thanks and regards

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  • Xavier

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    A pleasure to read your stories Gerardo. Congratulations

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