Grytviken: a toast on the grave of Shackleton (In)

For: Raul Garcia (text and photos)
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"Men wanted for hazardous journey. Low Salary, acute cold, long months in complete darkness, constant danger, and little chance of returning alive. Honor and recognition in case of success ". With this announcement published in the press of the time, Ernest Shackleton, of Irish origin and one of the most famous polar explorers of the twentieth century, brought together the 55 men who would accompany the icy lands South Georgia.

We left the port of Ushuaia, Argentina's southernmost city, bound for these same icy lands and to meet Shackleton's grave Grytviken, a whaling station where the Norwegians tore these cetaceans to extract the coveted oil.

Men wanted for hazardous journey. Low Salary, acute cold, long months in complete darkness, constant danger, and little chance of returning alive. Honor and recognition in case of success

When the ship entered the harbor you could see the characteristic color of rusty metal in the coastline. As they advanced, observed more clearly the huge rooms where the whales were butchered. Besides these warehouses, there are gigantic rusted metal tanks was where they kept all the oil extracted from these animals. And a small church and two ships stranded and abandoned. Nothing.

The polar exploration, early last century, had to deal with fierce animals and indigenous suspicious of foreigners, besides diseases that could block land discovery dream. But, these expeditions were an added risk: the pure nature. Temperatures of -45 ° C and winds up polar 150 km / h were two of their greatest risks, possible without collisions with icebergs shipwrecks and diseases such as scurvy.

We left the port of Ushuaia bound for the icy lands of Grytviken, whaling station where the tomb of the legendary Shackleton

His first contact with the cold polar expedition was in the Discovery, that between 1901 and 1902 attempted to reach the Polo Sur unsuccessfully, staying over 850 miles from its destination. I would try again five years later, with the Nimrod Expedition, without being able to arrive but not this time leaving the human footprint 175km from the finish. Soon he was obliged to change targets, when 1911 Roald Amundsen finally reached the South Pole, Shackleton leaving offside. But did not give up and got Irish explorer finance and organize a new expedition aboard the Endurance ( Imperial Transantarctic Expedition called), he planned to cross for the first time Antarctica.

The ship that brought me to this magnificent place is the Endeavour, the 79 meters and chartered by Limdblat expeditions, well suited to these waters where you often see drifting icebergs waiting to merge with the sea. To reach the coast we have to get on a black zodiacs. I visited the area looking at the remains of the whaling station and I even went to the boats stranded, a mole oxidized slowly waiting for their end. The island has absolutely nobody lives, just step on the tourists who come by boat or mariners seeking permission to venture into these waters.

To reach the coast we have to get on a zodiacs. The island has absolutely nobody lives

The 8 August 1914 Endurance departed for his last adventure. The 5 November, the crew read the Isla de San Pedro, main island of South Georgia. Almost a month, later left the Bahía de Cumberland, one Grytviken, continuing their way south. In less than two months, the Endurance became trapped in the ice floe, where their remains end up posing in the dark, cold sea Scotia.

In February, Crew, and especially the man who would ensure their safety throughout the ordeal, were dashed their chances of reaching the place where they intended to land. It had been a day of sailing. Summer was ending and decided to turn the Endurance Shackleton in winter haven, understanding that there would at least another year until thaw the ice and could release the ship. They ate seal meat and penguin. As much as I tried to avoid, many dogs died during the trip due to intestinal worms.

Shackleton knew that, sooner or later, should make the decision to abandon ship and find a solution to prevent the deaths of those who were now, family

In late April 1915 saw the last of the sunlight left them to make them not to visit until October. During the entire time they were caught based on the Endurance, Captain tried to keep the crew entertained, making their minds do not think beyond their daily tasks. Walking the dogs, do team racing, build some igloos for animals, hiking in the snow or a new cabins they were some of the new tasks for the team. But Shackleton knew that, sooner or later, should make the decision to abandon ship and find a solution to prevent the deaths of those who were now, family.

When you go to the cemetery where rests the famous explorer and look around, you can get a small idea of ​​the harsh conditions endured

The highlight of Grytviken is, undoubtedly, la tumba de Ernest Shackleton. It is less than five minutes walk from the old whaling station. When you go to the cemetery where rests the famous explorer and look around, you can get a small idea of ​​the harsh conditions they had to endure the 26 brave men who accompanied him. I jammed into a long maya, Cordura trousers and covers Gore-Tex pants for legs. For chest, thin thermal T-shirt, un shoftshell con membrana Wind Stopped y chaqueta de Gore-Tex. On the feet I wear a cotton sock and fat are high ankle boots and inner neoprene rubber. For hands and head wear thin gloves and mittens and a hat feather Windstopper. With this, if it's sunny I have no cold, but when the wind picks up or the sun disappears, the cold starts to seep into my bones beyond repair. I can not imagine what it took these men.

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Comments (7)

  • First Travel

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    If scans almost unbelievable and that we put the knuckle (by cold but also by the physical and psychological challenge assumed) those are the frozen land. Above all, when, as comment in the article, one feels the freeze move through the toes and fingers and think… «If this happens to me, How they managed with wool calcectines, too fat for it to be?». Something similar happens to us when we think of Hillary and his ascent of Everest… Shackleton's expedition to the Endurance is now taken as an example in leadership training and teamwork and not for less… It is also interesting to read the evolution that occurred in this type of travel and study of local people who made many adventurers, those who were labeled as crazy about dressing and eating as, eg, Inuit.

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  • Raul

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    Strongly agree, both. There were days I sheathed feather a sweater yet, the cold seeped. Of course I thought about using the latest thermal clothing, breathable and waterproof, They "suffered", without any of this…How did?
    It is true that time and comforts us from those brave men.

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  • Ricardo

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    Law book trapped in ice……you live and you do not see….AWESOME….. the adventurous spirit of that time…. Shackleton is one of my heroes….and to tell me tidbits…..a greeting

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  • Raul

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    Of course Ricardo!! 🙂

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  • Carlos Cosmi

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    Hola Raul, I seem to be living the things you are commenting, everything seems like a dream, I would like to know GRYTVIKEN, I have 67 years and is one of my dreams How I have to do to see those places?

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  • Raul Garcia

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    Hi Carlos!
    Forgive my delay, tomorrow will be a year of your question. I do not get answers notices.

    If you're still interested, please contact me and I will give all the information available to, see if you can fulfill that dream.

    Greetings!

    Answer

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