The birthday party is not Tibet
The Chinese effort to celebrate in style on the establishment of the Lhasa Tibet Autonomous Region is, for the native population, something like the non-happy birthday and Alicia. Pure paradox: a party where balloons only (Chinas banderolas, floats, an imposing stand in front of the Potala, slogans everywhere) and a cake with candles without blowing.
Trouble sleeping, truth, more than 3.000 meters. Or will run over schedule changes Madrid-Bangkok-Kathmandu-Lhasa? Anyway, The night seems a perennial duermevela. The handiest, course, is blaming the altitude sickness. Drizzle meekly on Lhasa, a city taken by official propaganda that tomorrow marks the return to Tibet Chinese lap, actually the invasion of the kingdom of snow by the troops of Mao. The yellow giant has prepared a parade commemorating the strip (the only, actually) city. The traveler, I bring these patriotic fanfare except hove, such as, bring more trouble than the inevitable. The Potala, stop and inn converted into the provosts of the Government, is closed to the public until further notice. It is, as, Parade preparations sniff and try palpate, the nail Horse, the spirit that the Tibetans involved anniversary. As always, see to count.
The show is on the street. In the avenue that graces the ghostly presence of the Potala floats follow one after another. Each gloss with simple drawings the sublime goodness that has brought the Chinese presence in Tibet: roads, modernity, exemplary rail network and bold by the highest mountains on earth, education, prosperity ... The truth is that Chinese government capacity for self-promotion (in that not too different from their Western counterparts) no limits. Aesthetics is halfway between carnival and a stale Three Kings. Tibetans regard them with cold indifference, resigned, as if the enemy had they gotten the Trojan horse in her living room.
The parade cla
Anyway, the Chinese Government, provident, has left nothing to chance and has already secured success bash with the arrival of thousands of compatriots of the majority Han, exercising somewhat arrogant tourists (I guess with two deals×1 or Mandarin Inserso trips organized for the occasion). They parade the cla. They come neatly uniformed commemorative caps and T-shirts, very committed to the cause of jalear achievements of official propaganda. It is another grain of sand on the tough task of erasing Chinese new generations in Tibetan consciousness, a culture shrinking (except in the mountains) a showcase for tourists.
The forecast China has also adopted a measure for all prodigy proverbial transparency that prides: Government has canceled the visas to Tibet during celebrations. Let, so that everything is at home. Now Dozens of Western tourists in Kathmandu trapped for days waiting to be able to head for Lhasa. We, luckily, For months we had granted.
The streetlights are full of Chinese flags, many houses also, even in Tibet Town. I ask. Not easy to loose tongue, but eventually the neighbors whisper that do not conform to decorate your windows are fined for failing to "cooperate". The largest flag, visible from all Lhasa, crown the roofs of the Potala. Other smaller cross it side to side at its base. In the streets flutter garlands. There is a whiff ruling that lacks only the sign "Forbidden not celebrating".
Reunion with beer
Afternoon, merodeamos out around the Potala to see if it sounds the flute and we can enter. Now it is surrounded by dozens of armed soldiers, though far from being aggressive seem relaxed, as if the barrel of their guns sprouted a peaceful margarita. We try to walk the kora (Prayer circuit around the holy sites of Tibetan Buddhism, are temples or mountains). No way. Only the back of the Summer Palace of the Dalai Lama is less protected. At least we can throw a few photos of the backs of the Potala. We returned in "rickshaw" (three wheel bicycle driven by a dedicated driver) to the strip for just five yuan (half dollar change). But the cops still erre que erre and leave even take pictures from here. "It is a monument!”, is an Italian pissed. The reaction of trans softens rebellious to authority, we must go back a few feet to allow a change of snapshots. Yes, with a warning not to photograph the stands reserved for the authorities, already mounted on the strip, lest that one can think of violating the distinguished delegation.
Right now there are dozens of Western tourists stuck in Kathmandu for days waiting to be able to head to Lhasa. We, luckily, For months we had granted.
Bethlehem has a bright idea. "Let the Barkhor", proposed. And that we, walking among boys holding hands, cruzándonos with people asking us water bottles (already become an appendage of the body), glancing at the women despiojan each other in harmony and brotherhood dear. The Tibetan Buddhist spiritual marrow continues to offer amazing prints: a man has tied with katas surely to purge their sins (Theft, a civilian targets) and a young man travels the spiritual circuit knees in the darkness. We tried his luck again in the Makye Amye, the restaurant overlooking the splendid. This time. I zampo a lamb with potatoes and Tibetan style, Emboldened by my acclimatization seems going well, I drink a pint of beer Lhasa. Big mistake. Overnight, headache is monumental. Lhasa duerme, soldiers that protect the Potala, in. Who's afraid of who?
Comments (2)
Emilio
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Fuck, Ricardo, The more I read about Tibet angrier feel of the end could not come. I think we have outstanding accounts with Asia. Great entry
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Javier Reverte trips online
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