Apulia: medieval villages along with magnificent beaches

For: Javier Brandoli (text and photos)


The traveler began a long road for unknown Italy. From Naples to La Puglia. More 500 car miles through places that are off the traditional tourist route. We're headed in the more rural Italy, attached to the sea and away from the hordes of foreign tourists. The Italy of the first Greek settlements, of homemade meals, of rocky beaches and blue shifting, of masseria (cottages of great charm), Mediterranean, without. The target is to reach the heels of "The Boot" and discover that hides the place where the Italians go in the summer. There will be cameras on all sides in the rest of the trip; Italy will, uppercase.

The entire journey is by motorway (have to pay several tolls, but the price is not high). There were other options such as flying to Bari (The capital of Puglia), but the traveler decides to cross the southeastern part of the peninsula and take the turn to learn too around Naples. Halfway, and in La Puglia, across three populations, Barletta, Trani, Molfetta y, of you have heard. Have time to stop there around (not know then that is likely to face one of the most beautiful towns in Italy has been).

Viajes a Italia. Una manera diferente de viajar

Two hours after the selected accommodation comes from Spain, La Masseria Borgo Cardigliano, en Specchia. There are dozens of cottages like this in the region of Salento (heel). It is important to reserve a place at any time this accommodation, since some houses are full of charm, but their places are limited. One is a building masseria agriturismo: rehabilitated old buildings, in many cases with their own history and nestled in remote and quiet. Borgo Cardigliano meets that description; has its own church, pool and restaurant, although there may be more quaint accommodations. I advise you to look online and choose the many options.

Food, and have time to verify the traveler during the week will happen in this land, is delicious, home and always at a great price.

Specchia is a small village located in the heart of Salento. Halfway between the Ionian and Adriatic. The town keeps the charm of medieval Italy: sloping narrow streets that lead up to the old plaza, in which there is a lovely church, the council and some small restaurants where you dine watching the network of streets and the slow pace with the inevitable time stamp older villagers leaving their chairs to the front of their homes to watch the comings and goings of others. The price of a dinner, with wine of Salento, one of the cheapest and the best Italy has tested the traveler on this earth, not exceed in any case 60 the two persons EUR (I get to be around 30). Food, and have time to verify the traveler during the week will happen in this land, is delicious, home and always at a great price.

The traveler decides to first know the, famous among Italians, beaches of the Salento region. It goes to Gallipoli, a tourist resort from which to begin the journey through the waters of the Ionian. In this part of the Peninsula the beaches are white sand and some are full of people. Do not despair, must look to the car and choose less crowded places. Some "marine" who will see as deviations in the road signs are small sea inlet that is paid by private sun beds and parasols. Good choice, since there are fewer people and enjoyed an excellent day of sun and sea. En Torre Mozza, further south, Santa Maria de Leuca address (Heel tip) There is a lovely cove of rocks in which to stop for lunch. However, My recommendation is to go with the car to different beaches and choose which one they like.

Need to enter walk a few meters and placing towels between the stones, but the clear water is worth the effort.

From Santa Maria de Leuca-beautiful city- north, the coastal road that leads to a different landscape leaves Otranto. The Adriatic sea is clear, of different colors and rocky coves. It would be something like the best beaches in the Balearic Islands and the Costa Brava, if you want a nearby reference. Need to enter walk a few meters and placing towels between the stones, but the clear water is worth the effort. Here, between the towns of Marina Porto Tricase Novaglie and there are some restaurants attached to the sea where you can eat deliciously (in Spain would be something like a bar).

Y Otranto Lecce

In addition to the magnificent coastline salentina, the traveler goes to visit two historic towns. The first, Otranto, is a shocking surprise. Walled City, attached to the sea, with a small port under its walls and dozens of narrow cobbled streets full of small restaurants and shops. A perfect place for a night out for a drink at the bars that are on the same wall, overlooking the sea. The sunset at the port, the sun falling on the old city, is the perfect clock to start enjoying the bustling city night.

Lecce, however, is history and art in its purest form. Known as the Florence of the South, The city has an important artistic heritage, stands the Baroque. The legend says it was founded at the time of the Trojan War, then known as Sybar. The rise of the city came in the fifteenth century, when it was under Spanish rule. You can see a Roman amphitheater and a column (symbol of the city) the second century AD, así como Piazza del Duomo y la Porta di Napoli. All the historical center is worth a leisurely visit, at least, a day.

The traveler, after the first three days of travel throughout the region continued, understands that Salento is a special place, rooted culture of sea and Mediterranean dry field. Italy there appears another: there are no large cities, or monuments inevitable, but all forms a perfect calm and quiet. For lovers of country trasalpino is a must.

Trani. The perfect beauty

At the last moment, forward one day decided to return to Naples to discover three medieval towns that we have talked about Italian friends. Trani, Molfetta and Barletta are 30 miles north of Bari, midway between Naples and Salento. Molfetta and Barletta are two sites with a beautiful historic, steeped in history and good beaches. Trani, I visited last, simplTranijewel. A place full of charm, stale streets and stone buildings that lead inevitably to the cathedral, dating back 1.150. Imagine a single tall tower, subject to a bow, attached to a ship with a rose in its "front" and which gives shade to a small stone footbridge. The sea beats beneath its foundations, leaving behind a skeleton track in a small corner that hides a small port, with another church that marks the southern entrance. Against ships, and recreational fishing, is a row of small restaurants with candles in which enjoy a good seafood fresh from the sea. Only by knowing Trani worth the trip. It's almost the perfect postcard. Then, and back to Naples, the traveler rushes into his eyes a number of memorable images.

a nap

We must choose a masseria. You can see the wide variety of web pages www.salentoviaggi.com (click on agriturismo); www.salentolink.com  o en www.salentonet.it. The offer is varied and the prices range from 50 and 200 euros the double room. The region is small, so I have no problem driving tour. We slept in the hotel Borgo Cardigliano, en Specchia. Telephone: (+39) 0833 539 599

a table set

Essential dinner at the Ristorante Ficarigna, en Specchia. Their pasta is delicious and the ficarigna dinner on the terrace, between candles, unforgettable. Telephone: (+39) 0833 535398 and mobile (+39) 3290676858. Direction: Via Grazia Deledda No. 2. No more 30 euros per person.

The "sea ristorante" Port of Otranto, under the wall, is another good option. Generally, the food is good and homemade. Salento wine is cheap and highly recommended.

highly recommended

Drinks: For those who want out, is a lively nightlife in Otranto. The bar Ciata, en a callejuela Pegado the Bastion of the Pelasgians, can be a good start. Small, There are four tables in the street in which to take a first drink wine or. Live music. Then, on the wall, There are several music venues until late. Highly Recommended.
In Tricase Porto are also a few bars of the port that can take a drink until late. Gallipoli also has a great atmosphere.

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Comments (10)

  • Helen Garrote


    I was a year ago in Salento: is true that the beaches are spectacular, The bad thing is that sometimes filled Ethan. We must find the coves of the Adriatic to have more peace of mind. Congratulations. Fond memories


  • susana


    hello my name is gabi'm from Argentina I want to see if you send me some pictures POSE Sandonato Lecce is the hometown of my grandfather I am using my mom's facebook my grandfather came to Argentina and never returned I would love conoser the village where he lived to also show my dad thanks gabi


  • Javier


    Hi Gabi,

    Sorry can not help you because I have photos of San Donato di Lecce (I understand it is that location). I even went through it when I traveled to the beautiful land of Salento (There is much to see and only nine days I). Anyway, Google in the search box, if you enter San Donato di Lecce and click the images has a few local. A curiosity, Why firm as Susana?
    Javier Brandoli


  • Natalia


    Hi Javier,thanks for the info, a week this summer we, We rented an apartment in Gallipoli and we are trying to gather information to visit beaches and villages.
    For now we have as essential Porto Badisco , Alberobello, Lecce..
    I read a comment that says that the beaches are private good, belonging to campsites or retaurantes you know if it's true?.




  • Javier


    One, many are private. Some pay a ticket and have loungers on decks on the rocks. The public and there are also crowded, but has some charm. Lift is a bit of a Spanish, but with the grace of being crowded with Italians. In any case, from the car you will see many small coves with rock. They're beautiful. Down to them.
    I recommend you go to a night Otranto. It has a lively nightlife and the walled city near the port has charm. In any case, also carried away by your perceptions, the coast is very nice.
    PD. If you are near Bari, Trani stop at night. This is a must. Let me know.


  • laura


    soy una agencia que lleva la puglia en exclusiva para españa si quieres informacion de puedo ayudar.


  • Pillar


    Hello. Quiero hacer una ruta de unos 12 dias por La Plugia en agosto y m gustaria saber que sitios merecen la pena en estos 12 dias. Que es lo imprescindible. Donde merece la pena alojarte para luego moverte y recorrer la zona. O si es conveniente alojarte en dos o tres sitios y desde ahi barrer la zona. Thanks.


  • Javier Brandoli


    Hola Pilar, nosotros te ofrecemos aquí una ruta, que es la que yo hice, pero hay todo tipo de opciones. La comarca es pequeña y con coche se accede a todo. In any case, verás en el reportaje (en el medio) el banner de una empresa que está especializada en la zona. No sé cómo trabajan, se anunciaron con nostros hace unos años, pero me parece que son especialistas en La Puglia y quizá pueden ayudarte al menos con tener buenos alojamientos. Greetings!


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