Lalibela: Black Jerusalem king bee

For: Ricardo Coarasa (text and photos)
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This marvelous city where look up is to look down, where the land seems to have engulfed the work of man in an angry outburst, steeped in history and myths in equal. Ethiopia, nation among nations, dreamed of one day with an African Jerusalem Christians to save the long pilgrimage to the holy city of David and Solomon. Is the response Lalibela. Such a miracle could only be available to a king crowned by a swarm of bees. Getting there was not easy, but the magnetism that this enclave halo follows the legend is too strong to let the road bend.

It took nine hours travel the 280 kilometers from Mekele to Lalibela, nine hours rehilando ports the mountainous northern Ethiopia. The city faces the end on a hill, enigmatic and as far as if the distance is not measured in meters, but in centuries. The black treasure Jerusalem eleven churches carved into the rock, with or without a certificate of Unesco, are one of the wonders of the wide world with infinite capacity to surprise.

God revealed to Lalibela on the condition that would rule him to build ten churches that emulate the celestial temples

It was King Lalibela, who ended up giving the old name Roha, it was decided to undertake such an enormous undertaking in the twelfth century. The Ethiopian monarch was an extraordinary human being from the moment of his birth, when a swarm of bees flew his crib with no bite, a harbinger of majesty. The insect legion had elected their king, to the point that his mother decided to call Lalibela ("The bees recognize his sovereignty" language Agaw).

With time, his older brother, destined to rule, attempted to change the verdict and ordered murder, but a cohort of angels ascended to heaven, where God revealed to him that his hour was not yet reign and ultimately provided him to build ten churches that emulate the celestial temples had been fleetingly admire the mystical rapture. Again the angels transported, before being crowned as sovereign, to Jerusalem, which decided to build a replica in the Ethiopian highlands of Lasta, so that Christians could make a pilgrimage to the Holy City as there was in the hands of Saladin. The effort it took twenty years and, eight centuries later, Lalibela's churches continue to amaze the world.

Soon the guides locale haunt us; one, that is conscious of the tourist is in a way a sort of itinerant NGOs, does not resist

The temples are divided into two groups separated by the river Yordanos (Jordan). On one side, representation of the earthly Jerusalem; other, the celestial. Away from both, the most spectacular church, of Bete Giorgis, excavated after the pattern of Ethiopia, San Jorge. The first view, however, is horrifying, because modern steel structures completely cover one of the temples, that of Bete Medhane Alem, the greatest of all their 37 meters long and almost 24 wide. Its protection, Insurance, is very beneficial, but aesthetically the contrast is too sharp not to be disappointed. Progress, sometimes, is at odds with the lyrical.

Cover 200 birr to enter and then guides us lurk, claiming other 150 (almost ten euros, definitely overpriced) for making cicerones. A, that is conscious of the tourist is in a way a sort of itinerant NGOs, does not resist. We descended into the bowels of the earth between the recesses where faith became a site. It is overwhelming to imagine how to go apañarían modeling the columns and capitals and draining vessels to raise some temples, the first European to say that he admired, Portuguese chaplain Francisco Alvares, "It is not possible in the world are found other such". And within, the light is very dim and the fear of fleas, bugs and other parasites that inhabit the carpet (sometimes you see them jump on a gymnastics) is accentuated when playing shoes to tour the church, as is required in all Ethiopian sacred places. In the darkness three tombs are accompanied by many other names, and any: Abraham, Isaac Jacob y, no less, another nod to this city built on metaphors and spiritual ties with the Holy Land.

I assume my outsider status, without fuss or false remorse: the 200 birr entry must contribute, modestly, to this wonder will not crumble

The visit took place between passages, red sandstone tunnels, vertical trenches and dozens of caves where hermits still look to God in the dark. Oran tirelessly to be disregarded in any food and, the passage of tourists, one is fully covered with gabi, protecting their faith in the strange look. What would we think along with us if confessionals in our churches detuviesen tourists, camera in hand, scrutinizing spiritual intimacy? I assume my outsider status, without fuss or false remorse: the 200 birr entry must contribute, modestly, no wonder that this one day crumble for lack of resources.

The favorite of King Lalibela church, Bete Mariam, has only three aisles and altar, as the other, is oriented towards the East, Sister watching Jerusalem. Outside there is a small pond where the women bathe in search of fertility. Everything is magic on this intimate journey through the ground. Above our heads cast their shadows rudimentary wooden bridges that allow access to the churches monks above. It's easy to find with some of them praying inside the temples, singing to their God with their Keberos (drums) and rattles (one kind of metal rattles). Supported on mekuanias, sticks with which mark the rhythm of the music, continue their ritual without being altered by the presence of the visitor.

Pilgrimage here at least once is an obsession for any Ethiopian Christian, that will go home satisfied with a handful of red dirt in the pocket

And Bete Golgotha are the remains of King Lalibela, but his grave can be visited. The devotion of the faithful was about to ruin it with tears of emotion, wax candles and wore incessant caresses the stone. Inevitably, I remember the pillar carved by the kisses of the devotees in the beloved Basilica del Pilar in Saragossa. Pilgrimage here at least once in life is an obsession for any Ethiopian Christian, that will go home satisfied with a handful of red earth of Lalibela in the pocket.

But the culmination of the visit occurs when you reach the church of St. George, with its distinctive Latin cross plan buried in the mountain, unparalleled in African art at the time. For those who, naively, think that the history of African colonization begins with an excellent example here is of exceptional historical and artistic heritage of Ethiopia, Christian nation with which fabularon European kingdoms of the Middle Ages looking for the mythical Prester John, perhaps the king Lalibela. Cuantan was the anger of St. George, to see that they had established in his honor any of the ten churches, which determined the sovereign to undertake the construction of the eleventh temple, the most spectacular. More than fulfilled.

Up, on the surface, Georgis Bete approaches a funeral procession. We hear the sobs and groans of the mourners torn

In St. George, reproduce the greeting ritual priest respectfully kiss his robe and colorful processional cross, exhibit all proud. Two blind pilgrims share the excitement of the moment. Up there, on the surface, Georgis Bete approaches a funeral procession. We hear the sobs and groans of the mourners torn. The church is about to close for funeral. Leaving, I kneel to pick up a handful of soil from Lalibela.

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Following the serving of spirituality, it is worth venturing at night to Lalibela for a few drinks of Teich, local honey liqueur, and sing songs Ethiopian. We did in the “Tej House” and had a great time among a group of Amhara of Dessie, the capital of Wollo region. It was a night of laughter and gallons of Teich, guttural cries to the sound of masiko (small one-stringed fiddle) and camaraderie alcoholic, the perfect counterpoint for a day of overflowing mysticism.
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Comments (2)

  • Arthur

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    Frankly spectacular history. Are you one of the most attractive windows to peer into Africa. Congratulations from the heart

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  • Mere

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    Among the sacred omen of bees and the dark shadow of the legendary Saladin… Bathe your stories in legend, making them and I love epic. So I read them with the illusion of a girl who devours a fairy tale 🙂 Thank you

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