Libya: a meeting with Gaddafi's "boys"
Gaddafi's Libya is a country with difficult entry for travelers, but being as huge hinge located between the Middle East and North Africa, is a must for those who roam the southern Mediterranean. The transit visa is very difficult to obtain, while the tourism, much easier, forced to go with a guide, in my case, travel in their own car as I crossed the country on a motorcycle to try to return home after visiting Mesopotamia and Persia.
At the border pass my backpack for a scanner but do not realize that I have four cans of beer Egyptian. Alcohol is absolutely forbidden in one of the most rigid Islamic countries. The first thing that strikes me to stop at the first gas station is how cheap it all. Oil money supports an economy of indolence. Those who build the roads that cross the desert or up the buildings of the new immigrants from Niger, Libya.
Tripoli. The city is clean, glistening with oil money. The neatest of any Arab city you have visited before. Gaddafi is the megalopolis, who watches from posters. The leader is a pilot, grandfather, general, Bedouin. Even announces Libian, the telephone company. In the hotel meeting a group of Africans invited by the Libyan government for a meeting that promotes African-Arabism, which Gaddafi wants to be head visible.
In my travels I have learned that there are two types. Those who obey without question the order to kill me in the back of the station, and those who denounce his superior.
In the hotel restaurant, the waiter is wearing in the TV images of the pilgrimage to Mecca. A white crowd turns to a black mausoleum. Last night, employees saw an American movie violence and sex Arabic subtitles. The display offers an unusual repertoire. Music videos for singers throughout the Middle East provocative, tough guys rapping in Arabic teaching briefs; sports car program in which a guy puts immaculate Chile 200 en el Circuito de Bahrain; the propaganda of al Jazeera and Quranic verses. What is the real soul of these countries?
Columns of smoke blackened the sky wells bit protective blanket of camel herds and countless police checks. Speaking of cops. In my travels I have learned that there are two types. Those who obey without question the order to kill me in the back of the station, and those who denounce his superior. The Swiss got me the highest fine in my life are of this latter class. Almost all of the other law enforcement officers with whom I interact, belong to the first. But today I have to incorporate a new category: of which is willing to receive that order.
The Libyan police know me before or after the guide has to go since I can not travel alone. I have to give high to me but to him. We went through a town and a guy made from an old car signs. I keep it here everyone greets me. I still then at full speed. I know it's police. I remember the rules and I do not stop. Do not want to lose my cicerone. Leaving the city will have a control where stop us all and my guide can explain I'm not a threat to the regime. Arriving at the check point appears to the passenger car made by my disobedience basilisk. Dressed in camouflage, with tight-fitting T-shirt, very short and slicked back hair, mirrored sunglasses. Pushes and jostles, forces me to dismount rudely, requires a passport. He is accompanied by a man dressed in civilian. I guess this couple of torrents of the desert have been spending my bike in front of their noses and are stunned. Insurance so discreet that Western is an international player. Finally an important case, raids are over camel thieves.
The guy is elated, wielding my passport, speaks loudly, proudly displays his trophy. I keep it easy. It's a matter of minutes to return the guide. When it does, everything changes color in seconds. I'm not an international agent. Only one type of tourist and even a busybody who should know not to bother foreigners randomly. End, the tough guy and I returned the passport I gave her one of my most hurtful smiles. These little smile that make you want a date palm republic police receive the desired order of two shots to break open a fucking Western.
PD. If you want to see a video of this trip click here http://www.exploramoto.com/index.php?news=2443
Comments (6)
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And to think that the Libyans do not have a guide to protect them from the arrogance and the back of a police station… No wonder nothing is happening.
His article is priceless, Sr. Wild.
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Javier Brandoli
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It's a luxury to have you on VOD Miquel. Congratulations. May divierto editándote y leyéndote. It's nice to open the magazine and see this report.
Signed: one of the ideologues of VOD reader become.
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Miquel Silvestre
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Thank you both. The estate is to be here. But Ana, please, you do not treat me, I find it strange.
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R
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Congratulations once again. Your articles never fail indifferent, always bring something. This also.
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I note!
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Jose Luis de la Cera
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Hello Miguel, I love your travels and especially like narrate. A question, How you can hire this guide?And go to Egypt?, I'm starting to prepare a trip from Tunis to Egypt, I appreciate the information you could pasarmemuchas thanks, a hug and care for those worlds of God.
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