Liwonde: the laughter of hyenas and canoe safari

For: Javier Brandoli (text and photos)
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The gas station where he negotiated the purchase of diesel on the black market, because their tanks were empty, can be a good example of the economic situation in Malawi. We went to a service station to ask where fuel is sold. There, various types were responsible for providing their fuel canisters, we agreed a price and we are confident that the mix of what we got in our engine was not made with sunflower oil. No rules, Although there is no supply of available facilities. All stations in the country are open and empty to the public. Another example, a similar situation: foreign exchange black market is better than banks. Resulting in a curious system 10% annual inflation, numbers still positive but could soon blow up and go to between 20 and 40 percent of Uganda and Ethiopia (Zimbabwe left out and more than 1000% previous years monthly). The State does not work and the rules of supply and demand, to which must be added in this case skin color and registration, determine prices. "A pity that this beautiful country, with good natural resources, is avocado to devour ", I.

We would, therefore, to make the river safari. We turn then to the Baobab Lodge, a campground and cabins hotel, arm attached to a flow

Gasoline and we went to Liwonde National Park. Se trata de un área protegida de una extensión pequeña para lo que acostumbran los parques africanos, "Only 550 square kilometers ", it almost borders with Mozambique and south of Lake Malawi. A perfect place for our passage route, that was heading back to the Old Colony lusa, which we have not heard a word. He spent, as always, in the most remote and less touristy places are hidden special. We came to the door and the guard informed us that because the end of the rainy season had just 10 miles of open track. We would, therefore, to make the river safari. We turn then to the Baobab Lodge, a campground and cabins hotel, arm attached to a flow. There was no, just us, and a man with a long white beard and unkempt then we knew it was the owner. We plant the tents and went to the bar, located in two huge baobabs, to expect the dark.

So came the night. We then did a bonfire, we sit around and gaze at the stars. Background, could hear the hippos

So came the night. We then did a bonfire, we sit around and gaze at the stars. Background, could hear the hippos "scream" in the midst of total darkness (there were traces of hiccups to where we planted our tents and did not know where they could be). After the delicious dinner of chicken with vegetables in light of the candles, again in the fire with a glass of wine listening to the sound of other wild animals hidden in the night. And when we decided to go to sleep came the sound of hyenas. Their cry is singular, acute, as if floating in the air and never leave. Overwhelms and fascinates sleep listening to his wild and menacing laughter. Camping in the African Parks has a point of contact with the very special nature, as if to touch the beasts with their ears.

The boat pushed through a channel of thick vegetation

Morning, dawn, we went to the canoes. Daniel and I were going to do a safari on the Shire River. Three hours were spectacular. The boat pushed through a channel of thick vegetation. Suddenly we arrived at the lake, immense, peaceful, where the heads of hippos came out and entered the water. For vigilan, look not enter their territory, appear and disappear at will. A little later, again amid high vegetation, see two elephants bathing in the waters. They do near us, indifferent to our presence as we control the wind did not take our scent and warned of our proximity. Each scene, in the midst of that lonely place where vegetation rushes to climb the nearby mountains surrounding the lake, transports you to the African wildlife we ​​all have in the retina. Just before we crossed the odd canoe fishermen, but silence is part of the landscape. Spend time, lose your eyes for lions, leopards or buffaloes and entertain you talking about the hundreds of birds flying over our way. "It bello, is calm, This park is special ", I remember some time after I take a shower while outdoors in this discovery is the Baobab Lodge and park hidden.

Este post forma parte de la «Ruta Hacia el África Desconocida» que VaP organiza en agosto. More top of the page.

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Comments (7)

  • Paloma

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    Another great post on the route. I have already requested the information, but every week you put something that leaves me muertaaaaaa!!!! Things like going.

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  • Veronica

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    Too bad what you describe! I was a year and a half and the situation in Malawi was very stable, had no problems although gasoline supply, very little choice of food especially.

    The positive thing is the quality of the people, We drew a lot of attention as they are open and hospitable. It is a country that is worth visiting just for that.

    What a fantastic experience, besides Liwonde, is to catch the Ilala and disembark at 'patera'.

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  • Javier Brandoli

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    People are especially lovely, true. We discussed, is the best I've encountered in Africa. The country is beautiful, but runs the risk of being a new Zimbabwe if things do not change.
    kisses and thanks

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  • Eduardo

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    Very large the story. I feel there is a.

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  • Incawi

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    FUUU…. WHAT GOOD IS THAT TRAVEL PINTA!!!!!!!!

    Answer

  • mayte

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    The photo of hiccups getting the water cabezilla, as looking at the camera in reojillo ranger plan, es bueniiiiiisima!!!!

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