Decadent city and the Masai from the beach

For: Javier Brandoli (text and photos)
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I like the decadent cities. I like Lisbon and Naples more than Paris and Bruges, eg. Stone Town es, my eyes, a city full of charm. Its narrow alleys filled with shops Arabs become labyrinths of life; men piled in front of the kiosks reading the front pages of daily newspapers; shadows that cross bikes; the walls of peeling paint and clothes drying in the sun in the window of some old house. Stone Town also has an impressive history. For me has meant a reunion with David Livingstone: I visited his home, Now the tourist office, from which it departed on his last expedition, and looked at the Anglican Cathedral is the crucifix on the altar of right made with wood of the tree where he was buried in Chitambo (¿recordáis?).

The city has a lively night life at the beach. I especially recommend the Mercury (singer Freddy Mercury was born here) and Livingstone's Beach. From this last Ana and I beheld a scene of delirious never ended ferry leaving port, giving almost turns on itself, and that when he went to sea again ten minutes to collect goods that had been forgotten. There was laughter among the locals but, course, no sign of stress or anger at the long delays already accumulated. Another gesture that Africa that gets you into the skin.

contemplate a delirious scene of a ferry that never ended leaving port, giving almost turns on itself, and that when he went to sea again ten minutes to collect goods that had been forgotten

After two nights in Stone Town went down to the lush wilderness and less to travel south to the north eastern shores of the island which they say are the most spectacular. We arrived in Jambiani, where we stayed at the Red Monkey, a real hole for 50 Double dollars set in the middle of paradise.

There, on the beach, Masai met various. Young kids that come from their villages in the Arusha area to make beach season selling trinkets to tourists. Make their mothers and sisters during the winter and they are pulled kicking three months to get some money beaches. The first, Heart, was a shy boy, jolly-looking and made two marks that appeared to fire in their cheeks. He sat down to talk with us and, inter alia, explained how a lion kills: "I have killed three. I go with my cows to the forest (bush) and lions attack them from time to time. You have to wait for the lion is drinking your blood that is when stun. So you have to pierce with a spear. It is very easy ", says. Just then her mobile phone rings. Out of his wallet a next-generation cellular. The scene is priceless. Where do you prefer to live?, Asked when hanging. "In my village. I'll be back 6 October. I prefer my free life in the jungle with my cows and my people ", responds.

He sat down to talk with us and, inter alia, explained how a lion kills: “I have killed three”

Then appears another Masai, Simon. A very fun but busy, heavy. Do not stop until he got it we bought some necklaces. Italians imitated to perfection, laughed at everything and was quick on his jokes. Had pierced ear lobe and two large scars on the face and chest. I played with him at three in a row, I smoked several cigarettes and kept repeating that we were a family. "My family did not charge me anything, gives me things ", tell. Laughed again and changed the subject. I ended up giving him a bracelet that Mandela had told me that never sell. "You look like you're my family", repeated. "Like Mandela". I looked at him and said "if you sell you will bring bad luck. Take care, is a gift ". The shocked me hands. Simon lost sight of when three tourists who were going to dive passed by. "You said you were going to buy something this afternoon", spits them. "When we come back from snorkeling, tell. But Simon is not an easy guy to fool with old tricks tourist. The fact that the fins take, goggles and wetsuits he thought it was a vile excuse and there it was with them until the end of the sand, them to watch that, to ensure sales. If necessary, I am sure, Simon is thrown our sea and is among the coral with ivory bracelets and ...

The story of the last is the most amazing Masai. Bob has 27 years and an Irish wedding. The girl, whom he met last year on the beaches of Zanzibar, lived with him and his family four months in the jungle. "It came to me; my parents were supportive now has returned to Ireland and I'm hoping he comes ". Do you want it? “Sí, much. Also I have no money to pay the dowry of a Masai woman, I have only four cows ". Do you talk to her? "I have to save money to call a mobile phone. Sometimes the call by Skype (when he said this I almost fell unconscious: ¡A Masai using Skype!). She says she wants me back. I hope ", tell me the best of Bob. "My parents have given approval for us to get married. It is the first case of town. A German man married a girl from my village. They lived together for three years, us, and have two children. Now they have moved to live in Germany. I'm looking forward to returning to the field ", Bob concludes, surprising and pleasant conversation that has not tried to sell anything.

A German man married a girl from my village. They lived together for three years, us, and have two children. Now they have moved to live in Germany

The next few days followed by turquoise water beaches, perennial smile people and stories that build up and that would make this interminable post: the girl asked us for money on the beach writing the number in the sand; Julio Iglesias cd playing in the car; Italian father having an affair with a young black woman ....
Zanzibar is a dream place, convenient, nice, offering the softer side of this continent. Do not forget. Think again, certainly, with someone that I promised and bring, without me, two and half months of travel on my shoulder. Now, after twelve days in this island plays new bags: me voy a Uganda, where I will be with Ricardo, my friend and partner on VOD, touring the country of gorillas, the source of the Nile, Mountains of the Moon.

Travel Advice: Zanzibar has hotels ranging in price from the 40 and 70 U.S. dollars (Negotiable) in the middle of beautiful places. Buying a plane ticket in advance, two weeks on this island can be around 1.200 EUR. With taxis always have to negotiate the price, but to accept routes from north to south U.S. dollars por40. Ask among 60 and 70.. Shorter routes, from 30 and 40 minutes, can be removed by 20 U.S. dollars. The food is not expensive: dinner can cost 20 two euros. Everything is negotiable, to the pack for Tanzania safaris. The important thing, if you go budget fair, is not to get into the big hotels. Addition, the charm of this island is that the beaches are living with local people, without a fence separates the world of tourists from theirs.

Finally, Stone Town is to go to eat at Monsoon Restaurant, on the beach, search center. Between cushions, without shoes, under the colonial air of some fans.

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Comments (3)

  • Alberto Bermejo

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    Beautiful story, friends. As we mentioned in a tweet, coast we still pending. Zanzibar is one of my dreams if travelers and as beautiful as your story does not take to underfoot. I've been reading the last book of Javier Reverte, which also included.
    We travel with our group today PERIPLOS flew to Nairobi. We're going to Kenya in our first destination of Black Africa. Ya tell the!
    Greetings

    Answer

  • javier Brandoli

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    Good luck in Kenya. Enjoy African magic and hope your story
    Greetings

    Answer

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