The bird island and killing of the Spanish
He ended the day and ended our visit to the Peninsula Valdes. Before we left we decided to stop in front of the Bird Island to catch the last rays of sun and take pictures of the chapel there remembers an old Spanish settlement. It is difficult to imagine that this coast was the location for a village, but nothing surprises me the courage and daring of the colonial era. That does not augur moor a thriving population but had a strategic importance to the Crown.
Peninsula Valdés highlighted on the maps of the Atlantic coast by way of ax over sixty miles wide, connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus. There, at the entrance to the reserve required on the peninsula, is where we were. The territory of the peninsula is a Patagonia itself. Its rugged coastline and the interior of arid steppe seems to promise lots of wildlife, however the reality is almost the opposite; the peninsula is home to hundreds of species. In our subsequent visits there were always able to shoot large numbers of animals.
And 1779, by royal command, a group of Spanish landed on the peninsula, specifically Villarino Beach. The plan was to populate the area and at the same time protect it from British who wanted to keep parts of the empire of Spain weakened. They built a town and a strong looking at the huge natural harbor in the Gulf of St. Joseph. In the desert they found the greatest treasure, a trickle of water that connected a lake almost dry to the sea. Poor rains in the area build up in the depression and gradually flow into the ocean. The Indians tehuelches, the same as Magellan named "Patagonian", at first were friendly and they learned to survive.
On the coast of the peninsula the enormous diversity of animal species is evident. Inside, despite its aridity, also has a rich fauna, although not as easy to spot. The vehicle noise frightens the animals, so you need to watch the truck stop and walk quietly, but especially, What is needed is patience. At certain times of the year, kept indoor salt, in its center, a body of water so salty that only a few animals adapted to the environment can drink. There can only be found flocks of pink flamingos but also with young guanacos and rheas chulengos (Patagonian ostrich) with small charitos. View maras (Patagonian hare), almost disappeared from the continent, is possible but much harder.
The point of contention were the few head of cattle brought by the Spanish. For all animals Patagonians were the result of the land and therefore felt they had every right to hunt
Shortly after founding the aridity of the land made several settlers preferred to migrate to the nearby El Carmen where everything was easier; but still the colony of San Jose, with great effort and courage, survived. However with the passage of time everything went more and more complicated. Mainly because the relationship with the Indians became increasingly strained. The point of contention were the few head of cattle brought by the Spanish. For all animals Patagonians were the result of the land and therefore felt they had every right to hunt. Certainly, was much easier to hunt a cow domesticated guanaco agile. The settlers defended their cattle with their weapons and ran blood. But, although there was nothing to stress involve hard end of the morning of 7 August 1810. All residents were in the chapel attending Mass when it was Indian raid. Most of the Spanish died trying to defend their only belongings, but their homes were burned and cattle were herded by the Tehuelches. The few survivors were able to somehow get to El Carmen; was the end of the San Jose. The peninsula was in Indian hands until, late nineteenth century pursued the Argentine Army and the territory became settlers to populate.
Turn to the Valdes Peninsula is a long and rough ride, because the roads are not good, but for lovers of nature, the reward is great. Each time of year attracts different animals to the shores. Almost as if they take turns following the calendar, the beaches and surrounding waters are filled alternately penguin, sea lions, elephant seals, whales, orcas and dolphins. Added to this are huge colonies of birds such as gulls, escúas, petrels and albatrosses, that feed on dead or some breeding, to a neglect of their parents, directly attack the smaller. In the nineteenth century, for their economic value, was hunted marine mammals to near extinction, but in the twentieth century changed the economic variables; killings were abandoned and the inhabitants of the peninsula were devoted to more profitable sheep farming. Populations of wolves, elephants and whales rose again.
My wife made me sign. I looked in the direction I pointed and I saw. Some distance away a couple of gang drank water from a puddle and every now and sniffed the air suspiciously. Luckily the wind in my favor. Moving closer I got bushes and take out multiple photos.
The replica of the chapel of the colony is not exactly in the place of the old village. Was chosen to rebuild it in front of the nearby and much visited Bird Island as in the original location, almost inaccessible, the memory of such sacrifices would have passed unnoticed. On several plates the white walls recall the common history, sometimes as renegade, we have Argentina and Spain.
The sun set, keep the cameras and we got on the truck, had finished our visit to the peninsula. For four days we had covered the peninsula by our operations center in Estancia La Elvira how well we received. Like other area, this room is "re-invented" in tourism when the pendulum of the economy decided that wool prices were sunk.
While driving through the isthmus to the west my wife went through the long list of native animals we had seen. "What we need?"I asked. "Whales!"I contesto. As we walked along the way I looked in the mirror the last reflection of the coastal cliffs and said. "For this we shall return in winter."
The reader asked if I speak of the Indians Patagones. I promise soon a blog post on this topic.
Coordinates:
S 42gr 25 min 44seg O 64gr 30 minutes 59 the
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Gerardo Bartolomé traveler and writer is. To learn more about him and his work go to www.GerardoBartolome.com
