Punta del Este: history hiding tourist beaches

For: Gerardo Bartolomé (text and photos)
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When you think about the Uruguayan coast first thing that comes to mind is "beaches". Uruguay receives, every summer, hundreds of thousands of tourists. Argentinos crossing Rio de la Plata one ferry, Brazilian and European airport passengers disembarking from huge cruise ships. All come to enjoy its beaches, Business luxury shopping and a visit to the area casinos. The most famous is Punta del Este; but with the growth of tourism also began to receive more visitors other coastal towns like Jose Ignacio, La Paloma, La Pedrera and Piriapolis.

The pervasive summer bustle hiding a story that unfolds before only those seeking their tracks hard. I know the area, and over time I rearming puzzle pieces whose background is the clash of the empires of Spain, Portugal and England.

The pervasive summer bustle hiding a story that unfolds before only those seeking their tracks hard

Faced with the constant threat of Portugal over vast territories Spanish, City Buenos Aires, capital of the Viceroyalty of the Río de la Plata, could defend the Uruguayan coast occupying and populating the best natural harbors, Colony and Montevideo.

The tourist who arrives today Punta del Este is the spa center sits on a rocky peninsula, which officially marks the boundary between the Rio de la Plata and the Atlantic Ocean. To the east lies the Playa Brava beaten by the waves of the open sea. West, wave repaired the peninsula, is the Playa Mansa. Opposite this Gorriti Island located at an area of ​​calm water that use to anchor cruise ships. The tens of kilometers of sea and sand on both sides of the peninsula offer vacationers plenty of beaches with different characteristics by size of waves, wind, arena, etc.. So you can bask in a different one each day. Now, the coast is heavily wooded but until about a hundred years ago all of it was dominated by sand dunes that swept more than a mile inland.

Gorriti Island Contré In the old fortifications located at key points defending the entrance to the port

The Spanish, natural harbor knowing that this could be exploited by their enemies, continued with its strategy of defending populating and founded there by the people of Maldonado. They chose the place where the dunes ended the fertile soil and began Uruguayan. To further protect this port established, At points, a series of batteries of artillery.
One morning, A few years ago we decided to spend the day on the beaches of the Gorriti Island as, besides being interesting for the traveler historian, it offers a beautiful beach where you can enjoy a day of sun and sea. We take one of the boats leaving the port of Punta del Este and in half an hour we reached our destination. With my camera went for a walk looking for old batteries.
Gorriti today looks very different from what it was 200 years back. At that time was a wilderness with just a few bushes; today, Instead, is covered by a lush pine forest that hides his past. I found the old fortifications located at key points, in order to defend the entrance to Port. Around them several guns destroyed. Why the Portuguese? No! The area was invaded by England in 1806, but tell that story in another post as it not only involves Maldonado, but also to Montevideo and Buenos Aires.

But the danger to the ancient inhabitants of Maldonado not only could be reached by sea. They felt very uneasy as overland, from the east, the Portuguese could fall over the city without notice. Thus it was decided to found a tiny village militarized, a few leagues east. At first it was called Maldonado Chico but then someone wanted to please the king of Spain and renamed by San Carlos. Today, and car, are only about thirty minutes from Punta del Este. It's an interesting ride for those, as we, are interested in the history of the places they visit. The village is built on a gentle rise from which they could control the eastern plains. Its streets are much quieter than those of nearby Maldonado and still retain an air of the twenties. In the central square some fortifications survived bravest of his time. Right there is the church that, while not truly old, exhibits some restored tombstones copied legends of ancient documents. Thus we learn about what life was over 200 years. A slave, an Indian, a rich lady, a soldier, a man whose body was found on the beach in Jose Ignacio, etc.. etc., each tombstone phrases pincelan working that distant past and fear.

Whenever I can manage the 200 kilometers from Punta del Este to the fortress of Santa Teresa and it always amazes me to find, rather as desert, a wonderful citadel very European style

In the colonial Eastern Band, as it was known then, changed hands as agreements between Madrid and Lisbon. From the Uruguay River San Carlos until the territory was sparsely populated, but eastwards there not a soul did not live up to the Portuguese village of Porto Alegre. In one of the many opportunities that the territory should be Lusitanian they advanced with a thousand men with the intent to be strong and not be expelled when the tide change agreements. For this, Lt. Col. Tomás Luis de Osorio decided to build the Fortress of Santa Teresa in order to stop the Spanish counter predictable. He chose a place where the lagoons are approaching coastal dunes, a must for any armed group. He began to lift the wooden palisade construction but, long before it was finished, Montevideo forces arrived. Osorio committed the sin of not resisting to the end for which he was hanged for treason in Lisbon. Eastern Band Recovered Viceroy of Rio de la Plata had built there a fortress, with high stone walls and a design truly military.

I always discover a gem over the history of Spain and Portugal in this area resort

Whenever I can manage the 200 kilometers from Punta del Este to the fortress of Santa Teresa and it always amazes me to find, in that place so desert, a wonderful citadel very European style. After the wars of independence its thick walls and heavy guns were abandoned by the Uruguayan authorities for almost a century until the mid twentieth century the restored and recovered its splendor. The visit of the Fortress of Santa Teresa is a must for any lover of history passing through the region. Further east, almost on the very border between Uruguay and Brazil, is the Fort San Miguel. It was built entirely by the Portuguese, and presents a very different style. Smaller than Santa Teresa, but also very interesting. For 200 years moved the border either side but, finally, San Miguel was left Uruguay.

I always discover a gem over the history of Spain and Portugal in this area resort. Every year, when I go to Buenos Aires, I do it with a place in mind to visit in the next opportunity. Who knew that among many vacationers can find this story?

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