Rio de Janeiro: Paço's "paper madman"
They should think that I was "Crazy Paper" or rather "O maluco do paper", because he was going back and forth across the square with a paper in one hand and a small camera in the other. And there was some truth in it. He was taking advantage of a very short trip to Rio de Janeiro to follow one of my favorite pastimes: compare an old drawing with the current reality. In my hands was a copy of the engraving artist Beagle, Augustus Earle, performed in 1833 when the expedition that led to Darwin around the world he stopped at that time was the most important city in America.
In the drawing was seen in the foreground a jetty with stairs which descended slaves carrying heavy bags. Further back, a large square in which stood a large three-story building, the Imperial Palace. Exactly at this place I found myself, el antiguo center of Rio de Janeiro. This, XV Square, undoubtedly lost the splendor of that era. An elevated highway through absolutely changing the setting. But, as I was noting, populate the buildings that are virtually the same as for 200 years.
I was taking advantage of a very short trip to Rio to follow one of my favorite pastimes: compare an old drawing with the current reality
The first Portuguese who arrived chose a beach, call Piaçaba, to embark and disembark products. So, it later became the center of the town. The need for space for these operations forced them to create a dock and a large square. And 1733 there was built the House of Governors. And 1763, when the capital of the colony was moved from Salvador to Rio de Janeiro, the palace was renamed Paço dos Reis Vice-. To beautify the square Lisbon brought an important source.
In my role of "The Madman of paper" I walked to the source of "Maestro" Valentin, whose name recalls the artist who devised. On the far right drawing Earle looked formerly the fountain was attached to the dock but now is about 50 meters of that, demonstrating that, with fillers, he won land from the sea. Several people went swift to my side. A boat had just arrived from somewhere in the great bay, because the pier is operational until today.
He had a copy of engraving artist Beagle, Augustus Earle, performed in 1833 in the expedition that carried Darwin around the world
And 1808, with the arrival of the Portuguese royal family, fleeing Napoleon weapons, the building became the headquarters of the entire kingdom and so assumed the name of Paco Real and from there ruled Dom João VI. Fallen French emperor Portuguese monarch returned to Lisbon leaving his son, Peter, in charge of the huge colony. He declared independence and, when his father ordered him to return to the metropolis, Dom Pedro, from a balcony of Paço and in front of a delirious crowd, pronounced su famous "I am" ("I'm staying"). Thus was born the Empire of Brazil and became the Paço Imperial Paço.
In the center of the square, was called Largo do Paço, I continued to watch the drawing. At bottom, right, a church. Still exists. The photographed. On the right side of the square, Paço the same architect had built a house for the rich high Telles de Menezes family. I looked and found that the building is still there, looking exactly as in the drawing. Looking in more detail engraving noticed that in the center of what Telles had a major arc where, probably, would enter the carriages family or your guests. The arch still exists and a poster reminds us of the first owner of the building, dice «Arco do Telles”. I walked through the arch and into a totally different world, where narrow streets maintain that colonial feel so hard to find in a bustling city. I took some pictures of that Travessa do Comercio before returning to the main square.
I walked through the arch and into a totally different world, where narrow streets maintain that colonial feel so hard to find in a bustling city
In the nineteenth century, two paradigms dominated the former Portuguese colony. One was the rarity of a dynasty in America and the second was the shameful reality of slavery. Time showed that these two truths were supported one another and both linked to the famous Imperial Paço. The Royal Family, there share with the people their great events such as coronations and royal weddings, was increasingly challenged by the progressive Brazilian society. But sought royal support to survive the powerful landowners who depended on slave labor, to exploit the wealth of their estates. So, first Dom Pedro I and later Dom Pedro II, were held in slavery.
In the early 1880 Brazil was the only Western country that still had slaves. Dom Pedro II, according to some a bon vivant and according to others a sick man in need of advanced medical treatments, had traveled to Europe leaving his daughter as regent, Princess Elizabeth. She could not remain indifferent to the aberration of slavery and, probably, Dark did not understand the covenant that held her family. So on 13 May 1888, in Paço, she signed into law freeing slaves Aurea. A huge crowd gathered to celebrate this important step.
Today in the Paço Imperial operates a museum. I visited it in much less time than it deserves. A series of models caught my attention. They represented different aspects of the building along almost 300 years of renovations. With the engraving of Augustus Earle in my hand I noted how accurate was the drawing. Also in the museum I learned that the Paço was the first Latin American to be photographed building. There was his sepia image in an afternoon of 1840.
In the museum I learned of the abandonment in which Paco fell after the departure of the royal family until 1982 the government decided to restore
The huge economic crisis for the abolition, added to the end of the support of the landowners, the royal family left defenseless. He grew the republican movement. Given this political instability Dom Pedro II was discharged back to the country, but little could be done. The 15 November 1889 there was an uprising and the emperor was deposed. Immediately the imperial family was housed in Paço waiting for a boat to take them into exile.
In the museum I learned of the abandonment in which Paco fell after the departure of the royal family until, finally, in 1982 the government decided to restore it like appearance it had in 1818.
Since almost no time left in the light of the square, former "Largo do Paço" is now called Praça XV in memory of that 15 November in which Brazil ceased to be an empire. I walked the short distance to Dom Pedro, Princess Elizabeth and her family traveled to the ship away forever from the country that ruled, Just two days after the republican coup. They did not set foot in Brazil. Dom Pedro died soon after, the 5 December 1891, Paris; his daughter, Princess Elizabeth, almost thirty years later.
I walked the short distance to Dom Pedro, Princess Elizabeth and her family traveled to the ship away forever from the country that ruled
I was late. I put the paper in a pocket; Paré a taxi. While it took me to the airport I could not stop thinking, ironically, in the city known for its beaches and Carnival I had spent hunting stories. A journey into the past.
