Salamanca: Columbus springboard

For: Ricardo Coarasa / E. Artigas (text / photos)
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[tab:Travel]
A Dominican willing to dream. A sailor with a reckless adventure under the arm. A brother who wants to believe. An alien tired of no one will believe. Fray Diego de Deza. Christopher Columbus. We are in Salamanca, in the year of grace 1486. A few months ago that the future has arrived in Spain Admiral, crestfallen and dejected after seeing King John II of Portugal refused their formidable plan: nothing less than delve into the ocean to the west until you reach the East Indies, open the spice route to Europe from the Renaissance longed.

Once on Castilla, the time does not seem conducive to the anonymous Columbus, delivered as they are in body and soul the Catholic kings to wars of conquest. Seven years will pass, seven years of despair and setbacks, until the sovereign unite their destinies to Columbus and the door to a new world that even presage finally opens. At that time, few believe in the mad project of the Genoese sailor, which is about, tired of looking in vain for your business kings, to head to France or England to find there the coveted accolade. The story, then, had been written with different lines. Columbus never forget their supporters as to reflect that in those years everyone "had fun" your adventure, do not forget to add: "Except for two brothers who were always consistent". Diego de Deza was, Insurance, one.

The convent of San Esteban

We are in Salamanca, we said, and more specifically in the convent of San Esteban. Within its walls, Columbus sought shelter in the winter of doubt 1486. And what is more important, some understanding out of the impasse which was. Both found more than, to the extent that the support of the friar was decisive for the future discoverer of America got the support of the Catholic Monarchs.

In a city as monumental as the city of Salamanca, more than a tourist can miss a visit to San Esteban. And it should do if you hear the footsteps of Columbus in the old cloister or the echoes of their arguments to convince turned to astrologers and mathematicians who should win the real sympathy. Or, remember it goes without, thousand and one reasons to visit Salamanca, but faithful to the spirit Travels to the Past, the traveler wants to encourage the reader to search the Spanish city that echoes Columbus failed to be reborn, years after, as the newly discovered America.

 

Within its walls, Columbus sought shelter in the winter of doubt 1486. And what is more important, some understanding out of the impasse which was.

The monastery is located in the plaza of the Council of Trent, only a few minutes walk, Palominos down the street, of the famous Casa de las Conchas, in the historic center of Salamanca. The facade of the church plateresca, framed in a great triumphal arch, flanked by the adjacent convent porch, not go unnoticed. Before setting foot in the cloister of the Kings, have to pay the entrance and take the opportunity to review the literature of the monks offer, exposed in a showcase which condense centuries of history to dominica throughout the world. When after leaving behind the chapter house, the visitor climbs the stairs to die on the top floor of the cloister, funded by Fray Domingo de Soto, confessor of Charles V, can imagine going to a shaky Columbus meeting of the board of experts while spinning for the umpteenth time arguments for his risky venture.

Room and board

The passage of Columbus Salamanca, we can not ignore, is controversial, but is far from confined to the territory of legend. Antonio de Remesal alludes to this visit in his "General History of the West Indies and the Governor's Private Chiapa and Guatemala", published in 1619, in referring to Columbus, in its efforts to persuade the Catholic Monarchs, "Came to Salamanca to communicate their reasons with the masters of astrology and cosmography". And it makes clear that only the monks of St. Stephen "found attention and hospitality". In the convent Columbus proposed findings and defended ", but among all religious groups "took over in charge of accreditation and encourage with the Catholic Monarchs teacher Fray Diego de Deza", at the time professor of theology and education manager of Prince Juan, son of the sovereign. To make matters worse, the convent gave "room and board", something that for a sailor who was then survived with a hand in front and behind was not a minor detail. An account of Remesal includes a very revealing sentence and asserting that Deza, "For the steps you did with the Kings for that believe and help Columbus as requested", Admiral once successfully completed its journey, "Was attributed to the discovery itself as an instrument of the Indies". The Dominican, therefore, did not give up its share of glory in the discovery of the New World. And is not entitled to claim in the light of the generous assistance provided by boater?

"I was already on his way to be"

Columbus himself, explicitly uncollected Salamanca tour, Deza speaks of his son Diego in several letters written in the early sixteenth century, when it was Admiral of the Ocean Sea. In one, the 1504, recognizes that "ever since I came to Castilla has helped me and wanted my honor". In another letter of the same year is even more frank, says the Bishop of Palencia and as "causes their Highnesses Ovies Indies and I stay in Castilla I was already on his way to be". Hence the importance of the convent of San Esteban in the epic Colombia. Columbus found who would listen and intercede with him in the Court (not forget that in those months the Catholic Kings are also in Salamanca). And all at a crucial time: when the ambitious ocean is waiting to appear before the Board of Experts, chaired by Fray Hernando de Talavera, they should analyze the feasibility of your project.
After leaving the ladder and the sacristy Soto, a corridor connecting the convent with the church. A little before he stumbled upon the impressive altarpiece Churriguera, in a small room that seems to pass a marble mausoleum to the visitor stops short. Sculptor Juan de Avalos, is the final resting place of Fernando Alvarez de Toledo, the third Duke of Alba, "Peacemaker" and governor of the Netherlands by the grace of Philip II, surely the most reviled Spanish military beyond our borders, no wonder he earned the nickname "the butcher of Flanders". But that, probably, is another story.

[tab:the way]
From Madrid, along the A-50, the journey takes about two hours. From Méndez Álvaro station has buses to the city of Salamanca frequently. Go by train from Chamartin train station is also a good choice (www.renfe.es).

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A recommendation: the AC Palacio de San Esteban, in the historic city center (Arroyo de Santo Domingo, 3), rehabilitated a former convent overlooking the nearby church of San Esteban. Price (round the room 100 euros per night) worth it for the tranquility and an excellent location.

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Salamanca has a gastronomic nutridísima, but the traveler, more likely to get close to the bar to table and spoon, advised to wander through the streets of the city to enjoy the culture of cover. The Van Dyck area, but away from the center, is especially recommended and el Tiber, in the number 38, one of their "temples".

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The evening light is bringing to life the stone of Villamayor, saffron that stains most characteristic monuments of the city. A treat for photography lovers. Contraindicated for travelers in a hurry.
"The convent of San Esteban de Salamanca and Christopher Columbus", the Jose Luis Espinel, and the monumental "The Dominicans and the New World", in fact the proceedings of the II International Congress on this issue in Salamanca 1989 (Editorial San Esteban) are two works to deepen the relationship between the Dominicans and the discoverer of America. Read more informative and more bearable is "The Great Adventure of Christopher Columbus, the Manuel Fernández Álvarez (Editorial Espasa Calpe. Madrid, 2006).
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