Siresa: Pyrenean landscape of embattled King
[tab:Travel]
There are still villages where you can hear the silence. And Siresa, in the Valle de Hecho in Huesca, the traveler can recognize even the barking of dogs, the footsteps of the locals and the cries of the hinges of the windows that scrutinize visitors. This small Pyrenean town on the road to Valle de Oza surprised by its imposing Romanesque church of San Pedro, Many historians trace the signal as the oldest monastery in the old Kingdom of Aragon, where one of its great kings, Alfonso I the Battler, was baptized and received his early education.
Its silhouette is cut fraught with centuries on the austere slate roofs and stone chimneys characteristic of Alto Aragon. From the road, the traveler will be surprised at an early stage to discover a temple of this size in such a small town, some makings that speak for themselves the importance it had in the past a monastery, unfortunately little known, which was declared national monument 1931.
Nestled on an ancient Visigoth enclave, Aznar Galindez was the Count who founded the monastery in the first third of the ninth century, Zechariah became its first abbot.
Siresa is located just two miles north of Fact, well worth a walk through its steep streets to admire the perfection of their stone houses. Today, Siresa lives in the shadow of the neighboring town, converted from the mid-seventies-season tourist destination for nature lovers. It was not always well. Nestled on an ancient Visigoth enclave, Aznar Galindez was the Count who founded the monastery in the first third of the ninth century, Zechariah became its first abbot. Located next to the Roman road that linked Caesaraugusta (the current Zaragoza) Bearn and the French through the Canal and the Valley Berdún Done, site selection and rapid promised splendor that awaits her fate. Soon, your library "lights up the West" and makes him one of the most important cultural centers of the Peninsula, as accredited San Eulogio de Córdoba on a visit in the year 848. By then I lived within its walls more than a hundred monks.
Abandoned monastery
The donation to the monastery in the year 864 of all the lands of Valle de Hecho, to the valleys of water which flows the River Eye Subordán Aragon, did nothing but reinforce its importance. But the millennium you feel worse and advancing troops towards Pamplona Almanzor forced the monks to leave the monastery in 999.
Next to the stairs to the temple still remains the main reason that the monastery could soar before heading the final decay. That saved the font where, according to tradition, received the sacramental waters Alfonso the Battler. For those who, as the author, lost in the tangled branches of the royal pedigree, worth noting that the monarch, Aragon, who reigned in the early twelfth century, led in 1118 the conquest of Zaragoza, the Muslim Sarakusta, after four centuries of Arab rule. Alfonso the Battler also settled its policy to win back-cross the foundations of the United, doubling its territorial limits to Muslim troops take over 25.000 square kilometers.
The monarch still remember, at the crucial moment of decision-Zaragoza, his travels through Siresa, where he was educated under the tutelage of Dona Sancha Countess, widow Ermengol III of Urgel. But when he had to face this Rubicon, did not come to the monastery of his childhood to ask the Almighty for victory, but of San Juan de la Peña, whose strength in favor of the kings of Aragon was accompanied, precisely, the decline of the monastery siresano. The lace come with the construction of the Cathedral of San Pedro de Jaca (which took its name from the monastery of Siresa) and, especially, when 1145 the abbey fell under the diocese Jacetano. Just a dozen monks remained in Siresa. History, like so many others, gave them back.
Hiding the Holy Grail
But the Roman church (one and a half euro entry) following admiring visitors, and where visitors can see at a glance the contrast between the limestone used in the eleventh century and masonry with which it undertook its restoration 200 years after- still keeping another secret. In a small open cavity on the cold stone of the apse to the legend that the Holy Grail was guarded in his pilgrimage Aragon, after the Deacon Lorenzo Huesca sent him to his homeland from Rome, the time of Pope Sixtus, to evade seizure during the persecution against the Christians launched by the Emperor Valerian. The Muslim invasion forced the Holy Relic to cross the Pyrenees, including the monastery of San Juan de la Peña, to settle permanently in the cathedral of Valencia, which still retains.
El robo de Erik «el Belga»
El templo altoaragonés fue también objeto de la codicia del conocido ladrón de obras de arte Erik «el Belga». His band of friends gossiping robbed 1979 various elements of three altars of the church. Part of the booty was recovered years later. Perhaps to compensate this setback, fate may to San Pedro de Siresa a rewarding surprise: during restoration work 1995 discovered a superb walnut size, the Christ of Siresa, XIII Century, now can be admired inside the church.
The legends have not passed by this place. According to the most known, a pastor was surprised to find in a Pyrenean cave a woman with snake body in the mirror combing. Next to it, shone a number of treasures. The man stole a chalice and ran, but the woman followed him snake. Afraid, San Pedro asked protection to the doors of the church Siresa, clearing that opened the way to close immediately behind him. The harpy, infuriated by the divine assistance, unleashed a violent backlash against the entrance portico and fused with rock forever. In one of the blocks, the attentive traveler can still find their mark, a single fossil to the most skeptical.
[tab:the way]
From Huesca, follow signs to Jaca and Pamplona, While the N-330 (Monrepós port) or by N-240 (Santa Barbara Harbor). Past Puente la Reina, where rivers join Aragon and water Subordán, take a detour to the right, compared to a gas station, Done direction. After leaving the latter town, Siresa is two miles ahead of the Forest road Oza.
[tab:a nap]
And Siresa, front of the church, the Bar Pyrenees Breakfast available (its terrace facing the imposing temple, in any case, is a must). You can also opt for a hostel (974-375385) or stay in the nearby town of Fact. For those who prefer to enjoy the animation of Jaca (40 minute drive), Pearl of the Pyrenees has a wide selection of hotels (www.jaca.es).
[tab:a table set]
In the square itself is the Siresa Restaurant Castillo d'Acher, named after a mountain of Selva de Oza fortress-like. Home cooking and table from before. Do not miss the white beans with nose and ear, especially, Aragon High lamb with fried potatoes. Telephone. 974-37 53 13.
If the traveler prefers to approach Done, is forced to eat in House Blasquico, run for over 30 Gaby years Coarasa. Traditional food and exquisite attention Huesca (crumbs and roast lamb, eg). Telephone: 974 37 50 07
[tab:highly recommended]
Approaching the Selva de Oza, where the road dies 15 miles north, is an unforgettable experience. Circumvent Hellmouth, a rock overhang that looks will fall apart at any time on the road, and finally enter the valley never ceases to amaze the traveler often make the journey and the author, he has repeated this route dozens of times, it bears witness. After the bridge, a few tables outdoors in the shade of an ancient tree is the best place to see the Castillo d'Acher and changing hues. Climbing to the top takes more than three hours and should be informed before it is accessed only through a small canal that opens into the stone wall surrounding the flat summit of this mountain. For the more daring, can continue on the track by car and on foot to arrive after Water one-eyed, our particular Valle del Silencio, where livestock is not only stranger. Indispensable madrugar.
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The travel magazine with ancient stories gates of the walled Zaragoza
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[…] where, opposite the stone bridge, the Puerta de San Ildefonso rose, through which Alfonso I the Battler entered 1118 after the conquest of the city to Muslims. In the Torreón de la Zuda, still in […]
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