feb 23 2012 Teotihuacán: the city of the feathered serpent

For: Ricardo Coarasa (Reo photos)

It was barely ten o'clock, but the guy insisted on us we were drinking a few shots of tequila and pulque a capella to soften our pockets on purchases. On the counter were four vessels, but Bethlehem, cramped by the "evil of Montezuma" (that stalking tourists in Mexican dishes steeped in chile), has made it clear he does not think to test. In a country where alcohol is an invitation to despise an egregious snub, I have to drink up to me the four. Eleazar, it's called the shopkeeper, smiles. There is no salvation. And all the sacrifices are well…

We are in a souvenir trade lost in the vastness of the valley Teotihuacán, the enigmatic Columbian city mysteriously destroyed ago 14 ages, surrounded by maguey plants, the local cactus that, fermented juice, spirits are removed outright. Pulque is the lowest alcohol content, similar to that of the beer, and it caught the attention of the conquerors. Fray Toribio de Benavente, one of the first missionaries of New Spain, wrote that "mildly drunk is healthy and very strong" but "to those who drink in quantity embeoda stoutly". Nothing new under the sun. For anyone visiting Mexico I recommend you drop by one of the popular taverns for, to taste, choose either option.

In her heyday she lived in 200.000 People, when Rome was no more than 10.000 inhabitants

Teotihuacán ("Place where gods were forged") was once the largest city throughout Mesoamerica. Two centuries before Christ, the city began to take shape, bringing together scattered villages. Its evolution was spectacular: occupied an area of over 20 square kilometers in its heyday (from the fourth century) lived there 200.000 People. To become aware of the magnitude of this figure must be noted that, then, the population of Rome did not exceed 10.000 inhabitants and, in Europe, only Constantinople was more than 20.000. Its influence, also, was enormous, and his power extended to the shores of Veracruz, Oaxacaand the current Guatemala.

The city was dedicated in honor of Quetzalcoatl, the plumed serpent whose devotion to inherit after the Aztecs. Somehow, Teotihuacan contributed so, without even suspecting, pave the conquest of Mexico a few centuries later. And the Aztecs mistook Hernán Cortés with Quetzalcoatl, God promised the return of expelled East to reign again over the Mexica. That prophecy was dated: year 1-cane in the Aztec calendar (coincident with our 1519). Moctezuma, therefore, I thought he landed on the coast of Veracruz was the living representation of the feathered serpent, ready to regain the throne. When he fell in his error it was too late.

These stones were very lively, laughter and curses were heard, celebrations were celebrated, the dead are mourned and cried to the gods

I happen to these ancient cities that tourists go around imagining walking XXXV century on the remains of our modern cities, we thought indestructible, walking the deserted streets that barely visible remains of a skyscraper or a cathedral bell. These stones were very lively, laughter and curses were heard, celebrations were celebrated, the dead are mourned and cried to the gods. Keep in mind the obvious is essential for not finishing the first commandment of mumbling proud of their ignorance ignorant: "Having a rock, view all ".

Everything evokes greatness in Teotihuacan, but especially the pyramids of the Sun and Moon. The first is, with their 64 meters (originally measured 75), one of the highest in the world. We got her walking down the Avenue of the Dead, the "Castellana" of Teotihuacan with almost four miles long that bisected the city and its various neighborhoods of merchants, military, Priests, artisans and farmers. Stuck to our shadows, street vendors hawking their wares and give the best of themselves with their ditties:

-For the mother, Secretary, the second wife…!

The majesty of the place, pilgrimage destination must then and now, history makes the rush. Each footprint is a century, every glance, an unknown. Especially as they go up 360 steps of the main pyramid explorers snorting between slippers and impeccably uniformed newly minted.

This place remains special for Indians, rising to the top of the pyramid to celebrate their marriage

Surely envanagloriada successful, Teotihuacan was a good day abandoned by their gods. Between 650 and 700 was invaded and plundered without mercy. Fire, the city was reduced to ashes. Stairs of the Pyramid of the Moon, torn, were scattered throughout the valley. The first civilization in Mexican lands had succumbed. But rather, by the Spanish passed by, continued to hold the magic of his greatness for centuries. In fact, Moctezuma himself often came here to implore the gods perchance Teotihuacan.

Crowned the Pyramid of the Sun, it is time to regain composure and admire the desolate landscape of the sleeping city betrayed by their gods. It should be, again, an exercise in imagination. The bare stone now look were then covered with lime, on which the artists painted the colorful murals of Teotihuacan and borders. The city oozing life before passing into the fire. This place remains special for Indians, rising to the top of the pyramid to celebrate their marriages between gusts and liters of pulque. A wedding, course, in style that, also, has the advantage that you save a few bucks at the banquet.

Before leaving I have an appointment with Teotihuacan Quetzalcoatl. The temple erected in his honor suffered as little effect from flames but keeps intact its magnetism. The feathered serpent is everywhere and their eyes are watching you from overhangs and reliefs masked from petrified sea shells. Perhaps only she knows the secret of the disappearance of the city that was once the apple of his eye.