Tlacotalpan: the revolution of "carpenter" Porfirio

For: Text: Ricardo Coarasa and photos: © CPTM / REO
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Often, the difference between a place on the map and swell the long list of forgotten cities is an illustrious son to be proud of. Tlacotalpan is fortunate to be able to wield the birth certificate of one of the great, Mexican composer Agustin Lara. Who has not ever heard any of their songs? "Only once", "Maria Bonita" and "Granada" are part of the sentimental memory of millions of people. Surely for this reason we pass through the villages scattered along the road 175 and stopped at this.

Walking through the main streets of this charming colonial-style town of Veracruz located in the river Papaloapan attacks you a certain feeling of unreality. On their houses were scattered all rainbow colors too neatly. One misses some painted (with the classic "Viva Mexico bastards", perhaps) spit on a little imperfection Tlacotalpan daily. A chipping on a wall, the smell of tacos from a street stall, a mean. Maybe that perfection is explained by the need for the town of reinventing itself every so often, for flood, fire and pirate attacks have forced the city rebuilt several times throughout its history. It's like Sunday Tlacotalpan get dressed every day to mark that still stands despite the adversities. A philosophy of life, course.

One misses some painted (with the classic "Viva Mexico bastards", perhaps) spit on a little imperfection Tlacotalpan daily

Confused between the succession of arched porches is the birthplace of Lara, that so imbued with the Cartesian aesthetics of masonry walls and gabled roofs to go unnoticed, truth. Only a small plaque is responsible for the traveler to remember the birth of the composer of these four walls. In another of the illustrious sons of Tlacotalpan, Juan Bautista Topete, a champion of the Spanish revolution of 1868, I found no trace. If there is a plaque that perpetuate the event I could not find her.

As often happens in life, when you walk behind a story you see on his face with a much more captivating. Be the place chosen by chance for coming into the world of a famous composer and a revolutionary is well, but in the back of Tlacotalpan no room for more trivia and one of them deserves a line in the recent history of Mexico. Here ruminated his loss for three years, General Porfirio Diaz, after revolting against Benito Juarez to lose presidential elections 1871. He future president of Mexico opened a carpentry shop before returning to get up in arms 1876, this time against Lerdo de Tejada, successor of the late Juarez. But this time luck was not elusive, and after winning the Battle of Tecoac, Diaz took office on 5 May 1877. Boasting itself as the megalomania of dictators, the "carpenter" Porfirio raised to the highest dignity of the nation- dignified the town with a famous tagline to rename it as "Porfirio Diaz Tlacotalpan. Since you like the post rascal, could only be evicted by the castle of Chapultepec of the Mexican Revolution Villa and Shoe 33 years later! In the best tradition of the Aztec country caudillo (how masterfully portrays Enrique Krauze in his indispensable "Age of Warlords") the flagship of the antirreelección just appearing seven times! to the electoral farce dressed to remain in office.

the Aserejé again remind us that McLuhan's global village is not stupid

As we walk the streets of the town founded, like many other, by the conquerors, very long and semi-desert, the Aserejé again remind us that McLuhan's global village is not stupid. We strolled through the socket, who seems to have been polished, it glows with red, white and green flags ubiquitous anticipating the great Mexican feast Cry. Buy some candy we eat caked in a flash and perplexed attended recent test of the massive street celebration of independence. A group of students with remarkable unajusted sings folk songs under the watchful eye of a handful of civilians. Sitting on folding chairs, reward the efforts of infants with occasional applause, but do not get clear on their faces a subtle touch of indolence.

Beside us stands the beautiful facade of the Church of the Candelaria, the other pride of this town. Devotion to the Virgin has its roots in the seventeenth century, when instilled in the Order of St John of God. Since then, each 2 February his image is paraded down the river for a good fishing year. And to beg him not to even think again overflow, I guess. If, despite the prayers the river repeats its virulence, Tlacotalpan'll catch him yet another flood, Insurance, dressed in their finery.

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