Tofo: backpackers beach in Mozambique

For: Javier Brandoli (text and photos)

Vendors of small craft market look at the beach with fatigue, like a sin to waste time in the shade of those trees instead of rinsing the mouth with water and salt. Nothing seems to make it unusable at this point that a clock. It is the only sun that marks the border between what is appropriate and how difficult. No more time here. But, is the sea that dominates, which includes a seafood vendors roam the beach, the surfers and travelers who read his books lost sand. As, a few houses and a few hotels around the huge sand backpackers, South African owners generally. Another thing you quickly understand here is that as much as possible is a "few". Nothing will be much. It is a luxury, eg, something as simple as a tampax. "We bring when we go to South Africa or Maputo", says a girl. "See if you are at the pump", offered as a solution unlikely. Put this example to any item of them seem obvious.

The times of the appointments have much to do with perceptions. It is easy to imagine Tofo Beach, a Mozambique, rocked by the music of its bars and hotels in summer time. Of the two: the European and African. Fiesta. We, however, arrived in time to calm, when you have the opportunity to become the only person who is bathing, for a few minutes, in all that sea.
Tofo is a haven for backpackers, Travellers without a compass seeking redeem lost much time in your day to day or eternal quest disenchanted. It is also home to divers and surfers. Troupe international matches in the same place guided by the lack of maps. Then she meets a Czechoslovak one here who got married last month with her British boyfriend whom she met seven years ago at this beach when she was traveling with a backpack pass. "I came to spend 15 days and I still have not gone ", I said. He is diving monitor, she works at the Barry House Hotel, the place where we stayed. Always tripping over each place with the charming story of someone who for years forgot the last call he made to his people saying "come back next month". I like those intersections of fate, the lives of those who stand to live in a place that does not know where. Is and is not at the same time, until the calendar reminds you that you have been. Always, however, with the feeling of being provisional. More conditional future, more present than past.

Always, however, with the feeling of being provisional. More conditional future, more present than past

On the beach, while, boys spend small coolers to sell fish and shellfish fish just. Fishermen unthreaded their networks as they carry their boats to sea. “Nos ayudas”, I asked three guys who can not drag the boat to the water. I do. An hour later they return. Likewise but uphill. Help again. This time, collaborating other types of people who see that we can not. They take your dinner and mine.

Tofo is also sellers of beads instead of tourists lurking. The opposite side of the relaxed system of selling in the market. Not reach the level of professionalism of Zanzibar, where you need to dive to ten meters deep to lose sight of the Masai in turn gives you a bracelet made with lion's fangs, course, he killed (yet it is likely to appear after a rock to remind you that ten days ago you said you would buy a), but may be persistent. Especially Children, going down to the sand to play with you and try to sell to your bathing suit. Then, again for a stroll around the craft market. No one, no customers in this season, but every morning to put everything back to not sell anything or nothing. After he, a store that has a name: "The tent of cement", call it. It is the only one in the square is made of straw and mud. In the streets around there is a trickle of abandoned cars, rehabilitated home or internet café and bar close by apathy.

Tofo is one of those nights that closed sites without time and soaked in alcohol talks. At least, that was the place we found by visiting out of season, off-season in which all flock there are not, the remainder. Three days later we left with the feeling of having spent three minutes or three years, with the feeling go and stay at the same time.

Post Data: Our hotel, Casa Barry, was a backpacker with category. Ie, booths had typical backpacker hotels, but combined with comfortable wooden chalets which sleep listening to the sea. Own bathroom, hot water, BBQ, full kitchen and balcony overlooking the Indian. Nothing is luxurious, but is charming and very good price. They also have a bar and restaurant from which you can see all the beach. Good food and drinks possibility of late. I recommend.

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Comments (3)

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  • MereGlass


    Another sun, another sky, other air… Now I understand what the “Shore of Africa”. Even then missed forever, I think I would risk. I follow you on twitter, thank you very much.


  • Javier


    So. The sky is particularly different in this land. Evil exists Africa, beyond platitudes and cliches. I'm glad you enjoy this magazine. Thanks MereGlass


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