A route through the charming towns of Segovia

For: Javier Brandoli (text and photos)


(In the tab above, on photo, have the tips to make this route)

From below it appears that the houses were weakly attached to the rock. Whenever I get the feeling that they may fall. I climb in the car up a steep slope, cobbled and narrow streets, and after passing a stone arch just coming to the Plaza Mayor de Sepúlveda. Route starts here, I've done dozens of times, a row of historic villages full of charm, good restaurants and country hotels and some memorable postcards.

Sepulveda is a town that has preserved its past seamlessly without cheating. The town, that was the subject of dispute between Moors and Christians in the tenth and eleventh, preserves an important historical and artistic heritage. From Plaza Mayor to be missed by his network of streets, aged stone houses and red, of arcades that protect grills where they worship the lamb roast and churches that have withstood the onslaught of the year. I love walking through a place still smells of burnt wood fireplaces in winter.

Ermita de San Frutos

From Sepulveda grab the car and I go to the Ermita de San Frutos, nestled in the spectacular gorges of the River Duratón. A dirt road just over a mile is the last path that will drive. The signal that is coming to a single site will get it looking at the sky. When you see hundreds of vultures dancing, as airborne, is that they are near one of the most magical places I have visited in Spain. Here, certainly, I advise you go on weekdays to avoid crowds. He begins to walk down a path of stone and, suddenly, appears a gap in the rock that crowns a chapel in the distance. Image, for many times that contemplates, always strikes me. It is a serene beauty.

Hundreds of vultures when they see dancing, as airborne, is that they are near one of the most magical places I have visited in Spain

I'm right and then I find that such a huge gash in the land that stretches to miss is surrounded by the gentle waters of the river Duratón. Sincerely, on many trips abroad, I have traveled hundreds of miles to see postcards with much less force. I feel, vultures flying over my head (come to rest a few meters from where I am) and stay “vaulted” enjoying the scenery. Everything seems chiseled, unreal, impossible. Has something special there silently contemplating.

The hermitage of San Frutos was the abode of a hermit in the seventh century, San Frutos, who retired there with his brothers to practice the contemplative life. Then, in the eleventh century began to build a chapel on an earlier work of Roman and Visigothic. The entire site is wrapped in legends,as saying it was the one hitting San Frutos with his cane on the floor caused the gap in the rock that prevented the Muslim holy closer to retirement. As curiosities that you can see even the cemetery of the monks, whose tombs are carved into the rock, and if they are lucky enough to find the chapel open, the only existing chapel is a narrow passage, under the altar, say that if you cross that brings good luck.


After the Gorges of Duratón, I head for Pedraza, walled town on a hill. This town is one of my weaknesses Iberian. The local story is, as if time had frozen the past five centuries. Just after crossing the stone gate, left, you can visit the old prison. Each floor had a grid floor ordering the detainees by the seriousness of the offenses. The most serious were locked down and fell them up after their prison mates who were in the upper floors. Some died from infections or inability to breathe.

The most serious were locked down and fell them up after their prison mates who were in the upper floors. Some died from infections

Pedraza is another open-air museum where every detail has been carefully. From its beautiful Town Hall Square, filled restaurants, will walk to the castle, XIII Century. At the beginning of last century, the painter Ignacio Zuloaga acquired the property and is now a museum can be visited by paying an entry 15 EUR.

The rest is lost. Staying in one of his precious hotels or eat at one of its famous restaurants. Me, particularly, I love to stay there at least one night and walk the streets almost dark when only the sound of your footsteps (see tips above).

From Pedraza we head to the end of the route, Farm. Before, I head to Turégano, a village with an imposing castle which has the peculiarity of having built a church, the San Miguel. This fortress was imprisoned in 1585 the controversial secretary of Philip II, Antonio Perez, alleged lover of the Princess of Eboli, and whose confinement was about to start a war between Castile and Aragon. His condition is very good.

The Farm

Finally I get to the Farm. What about this place? His royal palace, that Felipe V retired in 1724, is awesome, French-style. The gardens, designed by Frenchman René Cartier, have a great resemblance to those of Versailles and the walk between their sources becomes a mixture of art and nature. At this time of year is common to find snow, while in summer they performed a show with their sources running to thousands of people attending.

The Farm is a good place to finish the route of villages in the region (is also only a few kilometers from the monumental Segovia), but has a binding obligation: have to go to lunch, inevitably, and eat at the restaurant Casa Zaca (not open at night). It is a temple of home cooking, my favorite restaurant in Spain, I met some years ago and who took everybody who asks me what can we do in and around Madrid? Then, got into my car and started this fascinating route through the province senses reddish. Red stone and earth. Segovia Red's past.

tips to make the route


Take the turning on the A-1, output 109, to Sepulveda. Thence, by county, there 15 kilometers to the town (well indicated)
From Sepulveda to the Ermita de San Frutos is 21 km. At the end of Sepulveda takes the SG-232. Then, GS 241, the GS-V-2415 and finally the GS-V-2411. It is a narrow road, twisted, of beautiful scenery and no loss (all the while there are indications). Arriving in Carrascal del Rio is an indication to the Ermita de San Frutos (dirt track just over a kilometer).
After San Frutos is 37 miles to Pedraza. We take the GS-V-2411, Navalilla address, and then take the CL-603. After spending Cabezuela, take a small section of the SG-231 which appears a detour Pedraza Rebollo or by county (it also indicated).
Pedraza to Turégano there 28 km. You have to undo the previous route, return to the SG -231 and take the CL 603 Turégano address. From this location there are other 35 miles to the Granja de San Ildefonso. You must go to the N-110 and take the direction of Segovia.

Where to eat

Zaca House, The Granja de San Ildefonso. Spectacular home cooking restaurant. The beans are delicious with clams and chorizo (the last made to order the); Stuffed onions or lamb stew. It is advisable to book. Price from 20 and 30 euros per person. I recommend trying the wine Duratón.


Telephone:  921 47 00 87

In the rest of the path, both Pedraza and Sepulveda, There are dozens of good roasters specializing in roast lamb and suckling pig. The Olma, Pedraza, was one of my favorites, but the last time I was there something had changed the traditional letter and liked least. Maybe it was a blip, be re.
In the town of Torrecaballeros, near the Farm, surrenders many roasters also worship the lamb suckling. The truth is that most of these mesons can eat very well.

Where to stay

Santo Domingo hostel, Pedraza. A hotel located in the village, of those considered luxury hotels, with very good rooms and facilities. Has good deals during the week. http://www.hospederiadesantodomingo.com

Posada San Millán, Sepulveda. A house declared historic maximum protection has a twelfth-century Romanesque façade. Inside, has a fifteenth-century arcaded courtyard. The whole house, including bedrooms, has almost antique decor. It gives the feeling of sleeping in an old inn for centuries. Very nice and comfortable. http://www.posadasanmillan.es

Addition, You can choose from numerous options in rural remotenesshttp://www.clubrural.com/


From Sepulveda is a path that crosses rural Duratón Sickles. A path 24 miles that starts and ends in the same locality. The path is not difficult or require a large physical.

There are also many companies that carry canoe routes along the river Duratón. In summer there is also option to make the evening.


Research conducted:

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Comments (9)

  • Daniel Landa


    Can not wait to grab the car now and go for a ride by these people…


  • Mere


    The Sunday after spending the morning in the snow and visited The Paular Rascafría aconsejabas following the route in one of your post. It was great to see all that gray, snow and just like what describías. Soon the tour will offer us today the towns of Segovia, as will make a little more sun. Thanks, Xavier, because “in remote” We did a guide


  • Javier Brandoli


    Hola Mere. I'm glad you liked that route. This is even more beautiful. Make it and eat on the site that tell of the Farm (reserve). you'll love. Besos
    Dani, do that route soon to celebrate something.


  • Laura


    How beautiful is the province of Segovia and blue sky is. Send this article to my mother who is Segovia, Guijar half half Turegano, that is sure to be thrilled with its red earth.


  • Sandra


    I must say that writing an article on the charming towns of Segovia and not to mention the town of Riaza is like nothing.
    To all those readers of this post, and author of the same, I recommend you visit my people. I'm not going to say what is or what it can be seen in and around. I leave it to you averigüéis. Greetings


  • Javier Brandoli


    Riaza is a beautiful town square with a magnificent I've ever been on several occasions. You're right Sandra, but is not part of this route being across the NI or routine (when I do this route not included, I usually go there anymore when I go by Soria). In any case, is an authentic site and beautiful.


  • www.jamoneselchato.com


    Everything is very open with a very clear clarification of the issues.
    It was truly informative. Your site is useful.
    Many thanks for sharing!


  • mamen


    La provincia de segovia es preciosa, pero no encuentro forma de ir desde Madrid sin coche. Por favor indiquenme que empresa de autobuses hacen este servicio a todos estos maravillosos pueblos, estoy deseando ir, a todos pero muy especialmente a sepulveda y las hoces del duraron.
    Muchísimas gracias por la informacion


  • Javier Brandoli


    Hola Mamen,
    desconozco esa información. In any case, hay un fabuloso servicio de AVE para ir desde Madrid a Segovia capital. Yo la verdad es que siempre que he ido a los pueblos de la provincia, que ha sido muchas veces, he realizado el viaje en coche.


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