Valley 16 of October: the plebiscite of the schoolhouse
"It's not here", I told my wife to return to ride the van. When I asked the people had assured me that the stone was easy to find so had not insisted on getting the GPS coordinates for the. We were walking up and down the dirt road by a high plateau with grasslands. In theory, was there near the "Stone Holdich". But there was no case, not find.
The Welsh had settled in this valley had longitudinal ridge on one side and the other a child and oldest mountain range. By the middle of the plateau ran a river named Percy. As they had in Gaiman, near the Atlantic, ditches and canals dug to tap the water and irrigate their crops. The Valley 16 October was pure productivity, the Welsh colony prospered. But all was not joy. The Perito Moreno knew that the waters of Percy ran south and then bent to the west, facing the mountains and crossing it by a narrow gorge, finally, emptying into the Pacific. Moreno knew that was a big problem.
My wife and I had traveled much of the journey covered wagons of the pioneers Welsh. We would stay a few days in the village of Trevelin visiting the wonderful National Park Alerces, but also wanted to visit some historical sites related to the arbitration borderline 1904, all part of the research for my book "The limit of lies".
For Chileans the valley was in a mountainous area; for Argentina was part of the Patagonian plateau. The colonel had no trouble making the decision: I would go to the place!
The agreement signed between Argentina and Chile stated that although the boundary between the two countries would be the Andes, specifically the border would be the watershed. Watersheds in the Atlantic would desaguaran Argentine and do so in the Pacific, for Chile. The Welsh valley their share because the famous Rio Percy was going to stop "their" ocean. Argentina argued the thesis that the valley was out of the Andes, therefore not accounted for criterion watershed. There was no agreement, and before going to war, both governments decided to take the case to the Queen Victoria of England. The good lady named an experienced military officer in charge of the case, el Coronel Thomas Holdich, who had already settled a similar case in the Himalayas, between India and Afghanistan. The parties took their maps Holdich who, with surprise, found that did not coincide. For Chileans the valley was in a mountainous area; for Argentina was part of the Patagonian plateau. The colonel had no trouble making the decision: I would go to the place!
On the return trip by boat on the lake that leads to ancient larches, I took pictures in the streets Perito Moreno and Holdich. I also spent by the Ministry of Tourism for me to indicate how to reach the famous stone schoolhouse and also Holdich. They thought me out a photo on the cover of "Limit of lies". I led the way in a brochure with a map very basic, seemed easy.
The expedition tripartite (Great Britain, Chile and Argentina) would travel the many points of conflict. One of the main was that of the Welsh colony. Moreno sensed that the key was going through the Welsh population. The Argentine expert had studied the past of Holdich and knew that he valued the opinion of the people above all.
But the Welsh could be a problem. Were in conflict with the Argentine Government. On the one hand, wanted the school to teach Welsh and, other, surely the main thing, demanded that the law would give them the land they were promised, as some of Buenos Aires vivillos had convinced the authorities that they are allocated. Moreno moved soil and earth to fulfill what was promised.
The first thing we had to find was the small school. According to the little map we had to have it under our noses, but there was no case, not the we found. After many twists and turns (and nobody to ask) I walked down a path that left the main road and there, behind some trees, we saw. Was changed from what was seen in the pictures 1902, but a small sign was assured that there.
When the English arrived Argentine boys sang the anthem of Argentina. Holdich, between intrigued and excited, wondered aloud whether they preferred to be from Argentina or Chile. All responded in unison "Argentina!”
The Boundary Commission arrived in the valley of the Welsh. Holdich found that the river flowed to the Pacific, it was undisputed. "But we are in the Andes", Moreno argued. The representative of Chile argued that they were in a longitudinal valley between the main chain and a cord secondary to this. For Moreno that cord was, geologically, distinct from the Andes. And he said Holdich? Silent. Moreno decided to gamble.
The school was remodeled, but there were several items on display dating back to the famous date of the plebiscite. For example, the bell to say that the community gathered, or the stable where the horses left the Welsh. Although most modern, school kept the front porch steps and I could see in that old photo.
On the morning of 30 April 1902 Holdich convinced Moreno to go to school in the valley. There, secretly, one of his men had met all the families of the valley, Welsh almost all, tehuelches few. How do these people react? Impossible to know for sure. When the English arrived Argentine boys sang the anthem of Argentina. Holdich, between intrigued and excited, wondered aloud whether they preferred to be from Argentina or Chile. All responded in unison "Argentina!”, although with a foreign accent. Holdich wrote something in his notebook and then they all took a picture reminiscent of the plebiscite of the schoolhouse.
Find the stone cost me more to find the school. The tall grass hid the great erratic block that glaciers deposited there 15.000 years back. My wife saw him when he passed for the umpteenth time. We got. Read the inscription he remembered the first of March 1902. My wife took the picture with the Stone Holdich would go to the cover of my book.
Still not convinced of the decision to adopt Holdich, Moreno convinced a group of Welsh to do one last job. The next day the little school of English led him to a nearby. The sun shone on a lonely rock in the plain, as if it were a stone sentinel. Three men they finished work on one of its faces. Moreno went to see Colonel. The Welsh carved a memory of the passing of the place Holdich. The letters in the ancient stone would keep the name of Colonel and the date of its passage for several thousand years. The Englishman smiled and wrote something in his notebook, but did not advance any of its decision.
With the same camera I had my wife take a picture focused on a family of ducks that passed through the small stream there next. Seeing them smiled remembering the famous anecdote which closed over the Valley referee 16 October.
The Boundary Commission left the colony in the south and at night camped in the valley still, fairly close. They cooked the fire that had hunted ducks in a nearby stream. When they finished eating, Moreno served glasses of whiskey and Holdich of protocol asked what he thought of the food. "Very good these ducks Argentines", English said with a grin. Brown, with a mixture of relief and joy, repeated "Yes, Argentine ducks ... ". Now I knew what the decision Holdich.
After three days in the area, My wife and I loaded the luggage in our van and continue south, the footsteps of the Boundary Commission, only that 108 years later.
Contacto@GerardoBartolome.com
Gerardo Bartolomé traveler and writer is. To learn more about him and his work go to www.GerardoBartolome.com
Comments (6)
Ann
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The figure of Perito Moreno is endearing. Do not know. It is a hustler, a liar, a man thrown forward. One of those fortune seekers to the old-fashioned, like so many of those we have seen in American films of the Wild West but with a Latino point makes it more fun. How many stories in South America know and should know. A wonder this blog. In his opinion, Did you make all those crimes or exploits to get rich or for their country?
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Gerardo Bartolome
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Moreno died in poverty, never did anything to make money. He even put his own money to build the Silver Museum never recovered. He did everything for the glory and their country, but above all sought recognition. Only after he got killed. I will tell that story.
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Thomas
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A true HDP on such Moreno.. «vivo» , but the vividness is paid.
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VAP
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Thomas, this is not travel magazine ring to insults and showdowns. Other forums may find more conducive to vent. However, do not delete your comment, it is to vd., actually, who debases. Left there, as, as testimony to their stupidity.
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Porfirio
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A real son of a bitch, the "brown expert" Nothing of an expert, scoundrel and conchesumadre, all.
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Curupi
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Grande Don Pascasio, large Argentina.¡
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