From the valley of Nyang-chu, the once mighty fortress of Gyantse seems a maiden defiled, a half-finished decoration. Once up, with the plateau at our feet as far as the eye can see, one understands the strategic value of this crossroads on the route between China and India. No wonder that British troops made a halt here 1904 before reaching Lhasa to secure the rear.
Younghusband led the expedition with which Britain wanted curbing Russian expansionism by these distant lands. The dzong was already abandoned when foreign troops arrived: 1.000 soldiers of his Majesty's, 10.000 created (for the English service things have always been yours) and 4.000 yaks. Younghusband settled hoist the Union Jack flag and preferred camping in the valley.
Tibetan Counterattack
A month later, 800 strong brave Tibetans took advantage of the darkness of the night. A pyrrhic victory, fleeting, but a victory after all. Younghusband ignored them: was busy folding down defenses in the nearby Tibetan port Karo-la (5.045 meters), in which the battle is still waged at higher altitudes by the British Army in its history. But one month later, received orders to advance towards Lhasa and, in the blink of an eye, regained strength Gyantse. Faked to take the dzong in the north while the real assault occurred in the south. His artillery bombarded the fort until mercilessly cut a hole in its walls.
Three hundred Tibetans devoid of weaponry necessary to stand up to powerful imperial army died in the heroic defense, in which only life left four assailants. The strength of the brave without luck had fallen in less than 24 hours. Only the Tsangpo river stood between the British and the capital of Tibet. Was the swan song of Tibetan resistance. A Younghusband were opened wide the gates of Lhasa.
The museum of the resistance
I was very interested in these fortifications wander where the medieval old Tibetan kingdom bent his knee before the arrival of Western foreign troops early last century (maybe just a dress rehearsal for what would happen half a century after the Chinese invasion). It is time to tourists, so we are alone traveling the embankments of the dzong wounded, that despite its obvious downfalls still gives an idea of its imposing makings.
For the visit to be paid 30 yuan, but it's worth, if only to enjoy the magnificent view of Nyang-chu Valley, of the ancient city of Gyantse monastery and restored walls, still the longest in all of Tibet. In a small room, a museum gloss resistance to the British, a memorial, I must say, also dotted with Chinese propaganda messages.
Three hundred Tibetans devoid of weaponry necessary to stand up to powerful imperial army died in the heroic defense, in which only life left four assailants.
But who wants to defend the invasion of the British as the outpost of civilization also has arguments to claw. Until well into the twentieth century, Valley servants had to come here to pay their taxes. For the most recalcitrant were waiting the torture cells, can still visit, to soften their pockets.
But the best part of the tour is stopping at the monolith which recalls the battle, with the valley at our feet verdigualdo, guns with infinite horizon targeting the highland. The modern Gyantse, down there, it is a pile of concrete divided by three avenues in the shape of a «Y». On one side is the Tibetan quarter and its adobe houses and muddy streets that never will be.
Only up there, leaning on the parapet of the old fort, visitors can get an idea of the impression which could occur in the Tibetan scared the arrival of British troops and his legion of servants. And the fears that had to scare, after leaving the dzong on the run, to decide to retrieve it from British hands in the dark of night. Too bad that luckless heroes are only history book a footnote page shift encyclopedia.
