What the hell am I doing here?

For: Ricardo Coarasa (text and photos)
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What traveler has not ever had that question away from home? Even the most fascinating trips toll charges, by the way, occasional desolate place. Sites where no one seems interested in going and where, however, is a. In the Tibetan people Shega, a one-day Everest Base Camp in Rongbuk, the happy question reverberated more strongly than ever within me.

The nine-hour day of infamous road had taken its toll. And while never lost entirely the prospect, always keeps the traveler to get to a place unknown the illusion of a hot shower, a comfortable room and, grazing and dementia, clean baths. En Shegar, with the whole afternoon ahead waiting to resume the day tomorrow, hope that everyday was about to vanish.

The hotel Kangjong sticking to one side of the road: two rows of rooms facing outdoor patio. With the kidneys in absentia, Toyota got out of a pile of bones still searching your site. Not the best way to find a room, ours, orphan bathroom and where the anachronistic presence of a basin as that of our grandparents portends a cold shower cat. But the worst is yet to come. The owner of the property leads us down a hallway to the bathrooms, actually a small room without light foul with two holes in the wooden floor. A Bethlehem almost to tears. And the question, the fucking question inquiring, begins to harass.

Mallory and Andrew Irvine partner were photographed for the last time early 6 June 1924 way to the top. Never returned

For now I have no answer. I came to Shegar because camped here in three pioneering expeditions to Mount Everest (1921, 1922 and 1924) the legendary climber George Mallory. In the last, in this place (ascending to his fortress or dzong) proved controversial oxygen apparatus with which the British expedition hoped to become the first to tread the summit of the highest mountain on Earth. Heavy as concrete blocks, some last minute arrangements had reduced weight and easier to use. Mallory, very reluctant with the possibility of use in the assault on the summit, ended up convincing themselves that the benefits outweighed the drawbacks.

With them back, month and a half after testing on the slopes of Shegar, Mallory and Andrew Irvine partner were photographed for the last time early 6 June 1924 way to the top. Never returned. The goddess of the mountains were swallowed them the mystery of whether actually managed to reach the top. I'd like to think that this was.

Pero a Belén, the camping of such Mallory early last century to bring you hove. Only sees a desolate wasteland without the slightest hint of comfort where we are condemned to spend the night. On the verge of collapse, the mixture of weariness and ennui rages- takes refuge in the room.

Supported by a wall, cerveza tibia to the real, We roast in the sun for the rest of the afternoon laughing at us, always healthy exercise

A few months ago, Uganda in the wonderful, I ended up in a place like, full of questions and no answer, with my friend and partner in this journey of VaP. Javier Brandoli, who long ago decided to call these places memorable as "holes". Hoima, is called hole. The stop and inn was to bring them around, but we insisted on stopping to spend the night to visit the old imperial palace of an ancient king. But it was holiday and the huts, because that was what the palace, could not visit. We, as, the day ahead in that wonderful hole. There were no discussions. We started immediately agree that the only profitable thing to do was drink. Under a palapa, on the terrace of the hotel, beers and wines followed one another in endless procession. The night ended with the two white men on stage incursionándose, ridiculed by a dwarf, in the great celebration of the independence of Uganda. The hole, in the end, we had not swallowed.

But had no parties Shegar, or dwarfs, even cold beer. This left us with the sun and the need to take a few steps back and enjoy the prospect of meeting a few hours of Everest, privileged, in sum. So leaning on a wall, cerveza tibia to the real, We roast in the sun for the rest of the afternoon laughing at us, always healthy exercise on any trip, reeling off anecdotes and chewing are lucky to be in this blessed hole Tibetan.

It was comical and front row seats to the arrival of new guests. Three young Australians, two men and a woman, get off the road quite out of joint. It thundered desperezan, sure also secretly dreaming something like a room. She turns the key and invites them to spend. Leave a few seconds after the contorted gesture. The housekeeper gives them the key and when it disappears, all three look and burst out laughing noisily. They just realize they have come to a hole.

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Comments (1)

  • Javier Brandoli

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    I remember laughing that hole of Uganda and that night with the dwarf, at that stage in which two were Mzungus fun of the whole audience. Very good and very good scene in Tibet yours. Many people have slept in a hole in your life, but few close to the Everest Base Camp. Genial and post.

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