Annapurna, the challenge of the mountain

For: Juan Ignacio Sanchez / Gustavo Castelao (text / photos)
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"But where will they go now, if four in the afternoon and at half past six is ​​night? Not create problems and sleep today. Morning walk as they please ". The man's face is tanned by the claws of the mountain, and emphasizes its argument point-blank shooting: “Además, is a blizzard ".

Is 12 April 2010, we Besishahar, east of Pokhara, ready to embark on our greatest adventure. Let's do the Annapurna circuit. Climb up 5.400 meters Thorung mountain pass just the name La-da miedito- and triumphant return, if we are lucky, fifteen days after the Pokhara Valley. Steppenwolf will be right, Insurance. But the truth is that we want to stay there. We have nothing against Besishahar, but there is anxiety about being in "The Road". Some unexpected strikes have delayed us two days. And, man say what they like, but the sky is clean as a whistle.

The first day I usually do around the world is from Besishahar to Bahudanda, that is 17 miles after. We will comply, we say, to reach Bhulbulé, halfway. And we will light and without stopping for anything, promised. Even so, frowns type, and for a moment I think we will ban the entry. But it pays: "Do what you want, but I would not go ". Let.

From the first steps with us, and you do not stop until the very end, the course of Marsyangdi, which means "raging river", and tends to delight fans of rafting on the bravery of its water from snowmelt.

The guy frowns, and for a moment I think we will ban the entry. But it pays: "Do what you want, but I would not go ". Let.

But, at this early stage, the landscape is ugly, because the Nepalese, that are extremely demanding environment protection, mercilessly pierce the stone in search of valuable crystals that always ready to sell in Indian market. Anyway we are not for photos. Night falls and the guy was right: the sky has turned black.

Disappears just before the light begins to rain. Little at first, the lightning storm is over. A formidable wind accompanying thunder and really starts to fall ... when we finally arrived, with triumphant smile, to Bhulbulé. We have made the stretch in less than two hours, when, by phone, should have taken three. Saved by the Bell. We stayed at a beautiful inn called Throang The Guest House, that is completely darkened by storm. After dinner, when the storm subsides, we went to look at stars. With this dark sky is a sight.

Day 2: Today you have to walk 15 kilometers to reach Jagat, a 1.300 meters. We dawned later, so when we started, past the 9, there's no one at the inn. Instant coffee for breakfast-bad- and muesli with milk, good combination to put the batteries.

Let cheerful and fresh, so we are ahead of many of those who sleep in our inn and left at dawn. Suddenly, when we were already convinced that would be another ugly day landscapes, has appeared in the distance the snow-capped peak of Manaslu. This majestic mountain, the world's eighth 8.156 meters, has a reputation of evil and treacherous. In fact, as we have, one in three men has gotten crown her life has been left in the attempt. The information comes from the Nepalese guides and porters hired by other walkers. For ten euros a day will carry the backpack. Even if you can do it you ...

This majestic mountain, the world's eighth 8.156 meters, has a reputation of evil and treacherous. In fact, as we have, one in three men has gotten crown her life has been left in the attempt.

When viewed as close, black clouds surrounded by frightening, Manaslu acogotar. Then the clouds cover and enchantment disappears. We passed through a beautiful valley and other population, Ghermu, in which the price of water is starting to skyrocket, we have said here that it is very convenient to carry water purification tablets-. We start at the end of the day the final climb up to Jagat. Climbs slopes leading to a people and as they are to most mountain: a long street and a few houses on each side, all, almost without exception, willing to accommodate overnight travelers. Again comes to rainy afternoon, and again no light. Today we are tired, we go to bed soon.

Day 3: The effort will more. Today we walk seven hours, to a place called Bagarchap is already 2.100 meters. A little thing here, in the land of the giants, but I remember 1.800.Es Perryridge is a tough day because the climb is constant, but beautiful. The hillsides are dotted with pine trees and the river rises and falls creating throats at every turn of hills. In one endless cross a hanging bridge in which told 152 steps. And when we stopped to eat I spoke at length with a guy Nepalese. It's called Kalu, you have 16 years and goes every day to the nearest town to the classes of a teacher. He says he will never leave the mountains and wants to be a guide, but if you can mount a guest house. We asked him if he has a girlfriend, or if your parents have told you who is getting married, and gives us a definite no: "My girlfriend will choose me". In the room was a giant tarantula. I wonder if they attack people sleeping, but yet we have killed, and I'm sad. The house where we stayed Israeli lads have come. Many travelers who are crossing the country. And surprise. At dawn look stars because darkness is growing. With them I leave for today. We soon.

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Comments (2)

  • Charly

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    Beautiful story, but is it really that you can upload any? I guess throwing the guts through the mouth. Do you enjoy it more than you suffer or suffered more that you enjoy?

    Answer

  • Juancho

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    Hello Charly. Of course it is true! And the answer to your question I have clear the: more enjoyable. And if you go there before you stick a good home walking workouts, better still.

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