Chiloé: the last bastion of Spain
The barge hit the dock, the ramp down and the cars started to fall. Ours was almost the last to set foot trefoil. We face the path to Ancud while my wife read information from the history of the island. Chiloé, away from the centers of power realistic, as known to those loyal to King, was the last stronghold of Spain when America rose drawing the Napoleonic Wars. He remained loyal to Spain until 1826, when Chile, Argentina and other South American countries had declared their independence several years ago. When you get to visit Ancud strong. There we saw the batteries of cannons still pointing to the sea, as to defy any ship that tried to attack a fool. So the Spanish in charge of the island delayed the arrival of the independence forces.
The first Spanish called the island "Nueva Galicia". Long laugh, similar to those in northwestern Spain, penetrate inland
The geography of the area is strange. The first Spanish called the island "Nueva Galicia". As we approach Castro, the main town of the island, I understood why that first name. Long laugh, similar to those in northwestern Spain, penetrate inland and tidal marked the fill with water or put them absolutely dry, depending on the time of day. We stopped to take some pictures where small fishing boats, lying on the dry bottom of the estuary, testified to the withdrawal of water. Some people walked by the bed, stopping from time to time in search of shellfish. They took the opportunity to take one of the most sought-after photos of Chiloe, of the stilt houses, that is what they call long houses built on pilotines. These allow homes built in the river are on the water level when the high tide floods the sea entrance.
Churches and ancient larch
Upon entering the main square of Castro we get a major surprise. The enormous wooden cathedral was painted with bright colors very different from when we saw her wearing on our first trip to the island, twenty years earlier. I asked and I got a response that it had been repainted with funds from the appointment as World Heritage in the year 2000. In a close exposure models showed ten wooden churches in the area; beneath each replicate was recorded the actual location of each. I noted then shoot some. The churches of Chiloé are one of its most known and are found scattered throughout the island; all painted in bright colors and a very particular style. They are built with shingles millenary larches years ago covered the region. Darwin that in its passage through the island 1834 it was covered in a thick forest was only broken, from time to time, by the presence of a farm chilota. Currently, the reality is almost the opposite: the island only has occasional patches of the original Valdivian forest. The rest have disappeared. In one of the few places where it is retained reserve was created "Senda Darwin Biological Station".
Studies on the larch wood stumps show that had the greatest 5.000 years old when he succumbed to the axes chilotas
Special mention deserve the old giant larch. Regrettably, of these there are only a few stumps (ax cut the base), most with diameters of several meters. Studies on the mulch from stumps show that had the greatest 5.000 years old when he succumbed to the axes chilotas. The population, that grew dramatically since the nineteenth century, used the larch, noble, to build homes and raise the island's churches. This, coupled with the need for large areas for livestock and demand for rail sleepers, ravaged the giant larches as well as in the original Valdivian forest.
The memory of earthquakes and eruptions
Part of the native vegetation still survives in the east of the island. There are a number of small fishing villages that, recently, were made accessible by land. Thither we went down this path that, despite its poor condition, it was fabulous unspoilt landscape and wild. So we reached the village of Quemchi and stopped to lunch at a quaint restaurant called The Chejo. From our table we could see lots of seabirds on the coast and beyond, on the horizon, several huge cones of volcanoes on the distant mountain range the Andes. Earthquakes and volcanic eruptions punctuated the history of Chiloé causing death and destruction. But every time the island was shaken by any of these cataclysms the Chiloé population rose again. Nature always could overcome natural disasters, but I'm not sure I can do with the destructive action of man.
The road was still very bad but, Unlike the 92, were several buses that traveled with backpacks carrying dusty young
From our previous trip in 92 remembered that the Coast Pacific, with rough seas and wind chill, was almost uninhabited. Since then it had created a new national park that is home to bird species and habitat difficult to find elsewhere. We crossed the island from east to west to visit. The road was still very bad but, Unlike the 92, were several buses that traveled with backpacks carrying dusty young. When we reached the village of Cucao found it very different from how we had seen 20 years before. It was not inhabited by a few fishermen, but was full of economic rental cabins for young tourists. These roamed around listening to music, smoking and drinking but, I must clarify, without losing his composure (at least at noon). Luckily, across the suspension bridge, to enter the National Park Chiloé, we met with the weather we were looking: walks through the Valdivian forest and wild beach with big waves.
Chiloé is fighting for the overwhelming advance of progress do not lose the characteristics that make it unique
It came to a close our visit to Chiloé and while driving to the ferry route that would take us back to the mainland, with my wife talked about the differences we found on the island in twenty years. Certainly was changed, and these changes were consistent with earlier observations that Darwin made 1835: an island that slowly increased population and housing was reducing more and more wildlife habitat than originally characterized. Despite this, what is encouraging is that now it shows an effort to preserve state certain unique features of Chiloe, stocks such as natural, buildings such as churches and the stilt houses and even cultural traditions present in the food and festivities. Somehow, Chiloé is fighting for the overwhelming advance of progress do not lose the characteristics that make it unique.
And embarked, while the ferry barge moved slowly off the coast, I spent a while taking the last photos of our visit to Chiloe. In this, between about trees, appeared to me an old chapel with its colorful tiles. Appeared asking me to photograph. Of course I did. I like to think that, with this appearance, the island wanted to say good-bye. Me prometí volver.
Comments (3)
Mariasun
| #
Upon entering the site I saw with joy that there was an article of Chiloé!. It is very common to see something on this wonderful island. My trip to Chile was marked by the desire I had to know, thanks to a book by Marcela Serrano estava reading in the 2002, "The hostel of sad women", that takes place there. Upon arrival and discuss the book with a bookseller, which was not my surprise when I found out that such a "hostel" really existed, led by a psychiatrist. You can reach the site where the book was based, but I could not access because the site was guarded by dogs, that they were not in a "very good mood" that morning. What we saw in Chile enthusiasm my husband and me and especially Chiloé. Thanks for making it back to remember.
Answer
Eduardo
| #
Great story Gerardo. A fantastic reading for this Sunday.
Answer
Gerardo Bartolome
| #
Chiloe is in a "corner" of South America, a little off the beaten track of travelers. Maybe that's why there survives the taste of being in a place so different from anything. I'm sure everyone who has visited a lasting memory to share. Thanks for the comentarios.k
Answer