Chong Oene: camping on a deserted beach
We left Maputo Marginal Avenue following a narrow and bumpy dirt road 40 miles through what is known as Fisherman's Village and ends at the N-1. And avoid the traffic outside. We passed the town of sailors who crowded into the boats and houses in difficult balance. A crowd of people are crowded with barges that bring the fish boxes.
There is a chaos of people who upload, people who weigh, people who run, people standing, people sitting, People who drink. people who collect candles, people shouting, people looking the sea, people who sell clothes, people who do nothing, people cooking, people laughing, people bathing, People who eat, people ... and all, for a moment, in the midst of the inexplicable workings of arms and legs, up a second the eyes and become one thing: people watching. They watch from a distance, or perhaps it is I who look, but in the distant crossing of glances whenever I sense a certain awe of those who do not expect. Take this example for something that always happens in Africa, people look at the passing of life and gives you the feeling that they do not care that I spent in that game also looks your own. In contemplation there is no participation, it is like to live lives of others conform. Another culture, perhaps more successful than ours, where success is a timeless concept.
All, for a moment, in the midst of the inexplicable workings of arms and legs, up a second the eyes and become one thing: people watching
Taking the N-1, that is perfect to Vilanculos, in Xai Xai to dirigimos. We arrived at night and stayed at the old hotel Halley, so called because the opening day of the mythical comet passed by Earth. The food they served was excellent, especially grilled Garopa who asked Dani, but the rooms appear to shut it 30 years and opened that day for us. Nor the beach despite its width and length amazed us especially, therefore rule out this place on our route we will do in August.
We returned to the road and decided to go see the uninhabited beach Chongoene. It should be a dirt track 14 km, surrounded by thick vegetation and people who cross the road, and reaches a vast and virgin sand. Only the skeleton of an old, large colonial-era hotel languishing in the sand like a beached ship is. The rest is water, sand dunes and some bushes that stretch to miss. As always happens in this type of scenario exists in life drip. Suddenly some fishermen contemplate leaving the vegetation or the distance two women who collect shells and realize that nothing is empty at this location. There are probably scattered small villages you can not see after some dune, Postal and probably become that quiet evening in retirement of people who, these other, already live so far from the world that does not need to go beyond. No doubt for us: here will come with the group and make a night camping. It will be like the timid gesture of people approaching a prohibited place. We will see the sea, dinner and overnight sea listening to his endless coming and going.
It will be like the timid gesture of people approaching a prohibited place. We will see the sea, dinner and overnight sea listening to his endless coming and going
Tras Chongoene, left for another beach Chindeguele, where we stopped in a huge freshwater lagoon that is created by the sea. We tested the Matapa, one of the country's traditional dishes made of vegetables. Then, after a meal and baths, left for Tofo. We crossed the beautiful Inhambane, until now the city of Mozambique I've seen that has best preserved its past, and arrived at Barry House, a place where last year I spent three nights fascinating. (Then I was invited to make a report and did not pay the outrageous price they charge for sleep in almost Backpacker facilities).
Tofo has a V-shaped beach and a small craft market. All the rest are houses and hotels that include the sea surrounded by palm ladder eternal. It is also a place of backpackers and expatriates (as I told in VAP 2011 and as I was able to return to live with several Spanish I interviewed for an article in The World). But we are here and Barra, border town, looking for an encounter with an animal that exceeds 14 meters and lives in these waters: the whale shark. This is one of the best places in the world to behold and we stop here in August to float on his huge body. We closed all the agreements to do so and to return from Vilanculos.
We are here and Barra, border town, looking for an encounter with an animal that exceeds 14 meters and lives in these waters: the whale shark
Vilanculos and the Bazaruto archipelago little more I can explain in this journal. I have written several times about this place, when I go back a third time, and that is one of the most beautiful beach sites I've seen in the world. Especially the Hotel Villas do Indian, who own the Victor and Ana Paula. I feel at home, we all feel at home in a place you can not be a stranger. I will leave by the end of this journey a specific post with some interesting facts and perceptions of this place will be back to put the climax to this over a month of adventure. Just say the night before the P. N. Gorongosa, the bar became an explosion of fun, music and dance of four friends who zapateaban voice and dreams.
Comments (2)
Eduardo
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That sounds good this trip!!!!!
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Noeli
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What a wonderful trip.. points….
What a wonderful beaches….
What envious feelings.
To continue enjoying 😉
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