Century of Mountaineering (In): Mallory, the great enigma

For: Sebastián Álvaro (text and photos)
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In an atmosphere of national pride, suitable for a rematch, emerged in Britain climb Everest project, to forget the feeling of defeat at the South Pole, that had the support of official institutions, as Alpine Club and the prestigious Royal Geographic and, especially, the vehement impulse of a character like Francis Younghusband, one of those adventurers who represents Victorian society as any, with their strengths and weaknesses, the romantic spirit that surrounds the time of the great explorations in Asia and other parts of the world in the late nineteenth and early twentieth.

Younghusband's help was crucial in getting to realize the dream that came stroking since it became known that Everest was the highest mountain on Earth. And it would George Mallory the central figure of the three British expeditions in 1921, 1922 and 1924 would face for the first time to the world's highest mountain, reaching heights never reached before by any mountaineer.

In an atmosphere of national pride, suitable for a rematch, emerged in Britain climb Everest project, to forget the feeling of defeat at the South Pole

These are times that now seem distant, but it is worth remembering that at the beginning of the century an expedition to the great mountains of Asia was a very different adventure that can be lived today. And those climbers also. They were the prototype of adventurers complete: writers, painters, medical, military, spies for the British Empire. Mallory's desire was to become a writer, Somervell was a surgeon and composer, Everest Road watercolor drawings conducted and compiled traditional Tibetan music. Possibly they were the last generation of romantic adventurers, which symbolized the ideal tenaciously pursued, el fair play, so beloved by the British, (causing debates like the convenience of using bottled oxygen on Everest or dogs on Antarctic cruise), and the dregs of the more noble sentiment mountaineer.

Possibly they were the last generation of romantic adventurers: writers, painters, medical, military, spies for the British Empire

After finding the path of ascension 1921, when "map out", as indicated Mallory, and exceed eight thousand meters in 1922, the British returned to Everest in 1924. In early June, with monsoon storms lurking at the gates of Himalaya, Irvine and Mallory played the last card. A few days before, Norton and Somervell had made one of the most important advances in achieving reach alpinísticos 8.570 meters on the north face of Everest without using bottled oxygen. An altitude that would not be surpassed until 1978, when Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler made the first ascent of Everest without using bottled oxygen.

"I really think that the fight between Mallory and the mountain had become a personal matter.", Make sure su compañero Norton

So you could not fit more failed attempts. He could only reach the summit or fail. The two climbers were convinced that on his shoulders rested the responsibility for success. And with this pressure hanging over their heads began climbing. Norton describe these moments: "I really believe that the fight between him (Mallory) and the mountain had become a personal matter ".

Day 8 June, magnificent weather, left the last camp, located 8.168 meters, to the summit. The two were last seen, according to the account of his companion Noel Odell, at about one o'clock above the second step "forward resolutely" to the summit. Since then the mystery enveloped the two climbers became the subject of debate and speculation to this day. Probably the greatest mystery in the history of mountaineering.

The Mallory body appearance in spring 1999 cleared some doubts but, while, raised other questions

The Mallory body appearance in spring 1999 cleared some doubts but, while, raised other questions, no less gripping. In the pockets of the climber, who had died from a fall, some objects were found, including some notes and sketches oxygen bottles. What is surprising is that not wearing any pictures of Ruth, his wife, I always said it would stop at the top, leaving open the enigma of whether they were the first to reach the highest peak of the Earth ...

 

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Comments (3)

  • Daniel Landa

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    The detail of the "non-photo" of his wife seems like a movie ending to me!!

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  • Omar Verdugo

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    What an interesting story, is a compelling read for curiosity, I liked it. Already went around the north pole? In my reading I learned that in the depths of the huge blocks of ice are human bodies would be great ancient civilizations or shop around as far as possible by the confines of the Himalayas where Colonel Fernando walked Ossendowsky, good would be conducive autobiographical reading her diary entitled: Beasts, Men, Gods… Greetings and congratulations for your excellent work, thanks!!

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  • Javier Brandoli

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    Totally agree with Dani, the end is worth last frame of film that you chained to your seat. Congratulations for this great serial Sebas're not counting on mountaineering VaP..

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