Erg Chebbi Dunes: the home of the Berber
[tab:Travel]
Legend has it that the endless sands of the desert in this place were the result of divine punishment. Many years ago, population count, a woman and her children were rejected at every house where I host called. The lack of solidarity of the villagers made the mother and the children were lost in the mists of time. They say that God looked upon the scene and punishment of the city buried under sand. Still, evening, you can hear the howls from the dunes of the people.
One evening in December
There, between high dunes that are lost to the horizon, looking at some dromedaries india straight away on the sand and hitting red to distinguish some kasbahs ( fortress cities built in adobe) going off in the distance, provides the traveler one of the most beautiful sunsets in which he has been fortunate to participate. We are in Morocco, very near the border with Algeria, near the town of Merzouga, known as "The door of the desert". It's December, Desert winter hit on us in one of the houses of the Berber, at your door, if these nomads have had a home other than freedom of the great Sahara chop at will. The dunes of Erg Chebbi is calm, kinds of dates, without the sway of both annoying travelers (travelers will always tend to think it is the others who are not entitled to view paradise).
Among high dunes that are lost to the horizon, dromedaries contemplate moving away in single file on the red sand
But the trip to Erg Chebbi began many miles behind, in the popular tourist city of Marrakech. There, in an old tavern off center, where bottles of beer a pint in the crowded tables of many Moroccans, Take a map and decided to improvise an escape from the beautiful city built to suit the highest bidder. Erg Chebbi unknown emerged as a possibility; a call to a hotel, in which the property owner told us it was impossible to make 550 area, which was between the two populations in a day, made us decide to hang up and go over there the next morning, After renting a car.
After crossing the towering Atlas Mountains and see snow-capped (see snow in Africa is always rewarding), began a path where we take the N-9 to Ouarzazate, city that have been shot and roll and many films where we had lunch, then take the N-10 to Erfoud and from there turn south, the N-13 that leads to Merzouga. We chose the southern route, it took us nearly eleven hours away (be patient in some parts if you are behind a truck). During the journey, from Ouarzazate, traversing the stunning Dades Gorge and small towns can be seen, palm prints and unforgettable life spills out near a river that looks like something out of a scene: all this natural spectacle is the Todra Valley.
When you reach Merzouga stopped the car and went down to call our lodging to tell us how to get. We say they will pick the central plaza and advise us not to leave the car, it is dangerous (for the rest of the world, Westerners always where we go we are in danger). We tour the city and the truth is that we become the auction of all kinds of people offering services: hotels, restaurants, way, women ... everything is for sale. We return the car to be somewhat overwhelmed errant notes and decided to wait.
At last our host appears, Which brings us to the hotel. Owners, Moroccan marriage who has traveled much of the world, teach us a charming raised in the paradise. In the next three days, and warmth of the fireplace and a tea in her hands, interesting conversations are happening with the couple. They hire ourselves a Berber guide that teaches the dune. Wear turbans, driving an SUV and talking on a next-generation mobile phone (globalization has also arrived there). Our guide takes us to the typical houses of the nomadic, some have entered the business of being exposed as relics, but understands not go up quicker than a camel caravan of tourists do not pay for photos, and takes us to visit some accommodations raised, literally, in the middle of nowhere, and where we are not always well received.
Free men, as they call, have lived with all cultures that have passed through North Africa
The Berbers are a nomadic people that are distributed from the Atlantic to Egypt and, the south, to the border with Niger (The Guanches, first inhabitants of the Canary Islands, are also of Berber origin). Free men, as they call, have lived with all cultures that have passed through North Africa and, although they are mostly Muslims, customs in some areas are not accepted by Islam, as sex before marriage or belief in goblins desert. The nomads of the Sahara has not always maintained good relations with the states spanning, as Ryszard Kapuscinski explains in his brilliant book Ebon when talking about Tuareg (a Berber village) in the chapter titled gold and salt.
Today, in this area of Morocco, door big sandy, Berbers are still herds of goats, living under the sun that cracks the soil and, yes, earning a living, in part, at the expense of the tourist paradise that they teach.
The scenery is worth, prints are as striking as the lake Yasmina, emerging from the middle of the Saharan dust at will. It is fortunate to behold. The day ends with a spectacular sunset in the sea of dunes is emptied of color and shapes. When night, after dinner, talked with a glass, perhaps more, under a sky where the stars do not fit (Sahara sky is always special). You do not hear or see any human scent in kilometers. The silence we slept on the pool deck chairs on which to begin our bodies shivering.
[tab:the way]
We traveled with Esayjet, at that time was the best from Madrid to Marrakech. However, Look on the Internet if any company is now offering cheaper flights.
[tab:a nap]
Kasbah Derkaoua: Incredible accommodation, up in the middle of nowhere, and somewhat away from the tourist area of Erg Chebbi in which there lacks detail. The owners are charming, comfortable rooms and spectacular gardens and the environment. A tea served fireside, breakfast surrounded by dozens of small singing birds or a swim in the icy waters of the pool in December are feeling that the traveler wants to repeat. Must reserve (the owner speaks some Castilian). Telephone: 00212 5 35 57 71 40.
[tab:a table set]
Find in every restaurant to stop the Berber dish par excellence, hand Detection. Should prove, is a stew of vegetables that can be accompanied by chicken or beef, although there are also fish. In this area of Morocco are almost forced to like it, because they will have no choice but to repeat.
[tab:highly recommended]
Read the book «Berber peoples in the Maghreb, from the Iepala publishing house».
[tab:END]
Comments (8)
Mino
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Very evocative and fantastic photos Mr reverte. The desert has a special magnetism
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Javier Brandoli
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I am honored to compare with Javier Reverte. We have the same name, and we both like to travel, read and write, but he has proven to be better than me all these things. Yet thanks. Javier Brandoli
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Eduardo De Winter
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Javier Very Good. Fascinating picture of the dunes where the footprints are observed. Being so close to Spain is a very tempting trip. I note the book you recommend. Greetings
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Javier Brandoli
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Mino As I told everything to be joined a picture-postcard. The surprising thing is that I made without a tripod, Freehand. Thanks Eduardo. A hug.
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Goyo
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Friend Branducinsky, your report reminded me of a trip-sea years ago- Morocco aboard a Vanette (then it was hippie, not like in Cabo de Gata). It was a revelation to know the Medina of Fez, the most wonderful place I've walked by never, Like the palm of which you speak, Dades Gorge, bivouac in the desert on a dark night. Certainly, There is a photo gallery if you have not won a prize…
Hugs
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Javier Brandoli
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I see you have good memory, I do not know if others have also. A hug
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Juancho
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Some wags, I see you… Say, Brandoli, clear that, as lost, not have happened to you in this column, the shooting stars contest late in the morning and with a little alcohol in the body… What gustito read some things, and remember some good photos good. My sister always loved photography…
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Javier Brandoli
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The truth is that it was an unforgettable journey through a lot of things. Jajaja. In any case, the defeat was by a narrow margin.
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