Joy: the island of the nymph Calypso
[tab:Travel]
Who can resist the call of Ulysses? In his rough return home after the war Troy, the astute Odysseus the landfall light feet, much to his regret, in the isla Oggigia. For seven years they kept him there the nymph Calypso, the "terrible goddess" of pretty braids. Mapping the literature guiding compass of curiosity to unexpected places. A few years ago, on a tour of southern Tunisia regretted not having time to approach the island of Djerba, that claims authorship of the land of the lotus eaters who tried to abandon it Odysseus returned to Ithaca his meat offering. Now, I did not want to experience again the unease in Malta. He had approached the island of Joy, known as the cave of Calypso, the Maltese identify with the place of captivity of Ulysses.
We traveled to the north of Malta, the main island of the archipelago, between features ordered defensive towers built by the Orden de Malta as a defense against the Grand Turk (on Great Siege the 1565 and the Spanish participation in the defense of the island published an extensive report in VaP.). We stop in the San Pablo Bay, the snout of a large alligator snooping on the coast, where tradition has it that the apostle was shipwrecked road Rome, which should be tried for desecrating the temple of Jerusalem and with his teachings contrary to Jewish law. That the apostle of the Gentiles was shipwrecked here or not, and spend three months on the island is a matter of faith, but of course Christianity is firmly established in Malta, Catholic stronghold where today divorce is not allowed, or abortion, or gay weddings.
We stop in San Pablo Bay, the snout of a large alligator snooping on the coast, where tradition has it that the apostle was shipwrecked
A little before reaching Cirkewwa, the port from which ferries sail to Gozo (4,65 euros return ticket), an immaculate village, down cliff, draws attention. It looks freshly painted in a comic cartoon. Is Popeye Village, which was filmed Sailor invigorating spinach. The replica was built with imported wood from forests canadieneses. Now is a mere tourist attraction Anchor Bay, exercise where some fishermen on a pier, another morning, the infinite patience, discipline.
On board the ferry, Javier flirts with seasickness during the voyage twenty minutes without ever consummating, this time, the dreaded affair. We passed the small island of Cumin (the third in discord) and Tower of Santa Maria, where they recorded one version of "The Count of Monte Cristo". The boat is full of bikers, because here the style is given a spin on Sunday Gozo.
In the Mediterranean port of Mgarr rocking boats as coined a mother to her newborn baby in her lap
The arrival at the port of Mgarr is pure essence of the Mediterranean. The bay is dotted with small craft sailor's eye Osiris drawn at the stern, a Phoenician custom of the adversities that protected men of the sea. The Mediterranean rocking boats as coined a mother to her newborn baby in her lap.
Before heading to the Calypso Cave, north of the island, wander in the capital, Victory (also known as Rabat), through the interior of the impressive citadel. In a few sites say the fortifications from the history of the place and Malta, forced a strategic defensive caution over the centuries. On the walls of the Cathedral of Saint Mary is the trace of the religious devotion of the Maltese: vessels carved in the walls to implore God protection at sea.
Here, time seems to ally, not an enemy, perhaps because the rush hours seem outlawed and only marks the lapping waves on the coast
Here life is recreated in its pauses, in the silence of footsteps through the maze of streets that hug the citadel. Time seems an ally, not an enemy, perhaps because the rush hours seem proscribed and mark only the lapping waves on the coast. Silvia Quiroga, our excellent guide, tells us the rivalry between the inhabitants of Malta and Gozo. "When you tell someone that you reproach gozitano seems to take life too easy". The views from here are excellent, with crimson cupola of the church of St George emerging from the houses as a vantage point of morality. Move closer to the main square in Victoria, The Tokk, and verify that the hospitality of the Gozitan has no limits: do not be surprised if you see the door of a house with the keys in the lock tucked casually, inviting the stranger to pass.
But the most amazing natural spectacle of Gozo is the Azure Windows, a raised stone window twenty meters above the sea that looks like a god prank artist. The natural lagoon Inland Sea you can rent a boat to approach this arch rock through a tunnel through the cliff and to navigate in open water. The trip is relaxing.
The most amazing natural spectacle of Gozo is the Azure Windows, a large window on the sea stone that looks like a god prank artist
On the way to the cave where Ulysses endured captivity must be that dismounting in Qbajjar salt of ancient Roman Gaudes. From this we extracted the salt that was paid the salary (wage) the soldiers of the Empire. We now turn to the east. No one can leave without visiting Gozo Ggantija Temples, the world's oldest (raised 3.600 BC). Very far from here lies the cliff Ramla Bay, one of the main beaches of Gozo. But in this bay of red earth we do not take a dip, but access to the cave of Calypso, the daughter of Atlas he held prisoner Trojan hero. Ulysses account "The Odyssey":
"I took home some numen after Zeus went down with the blazing fast beam my ship in the middle of wine-ponto"
His companions had perished in the wreck and he survived clinging to the keel of the ship for nine days. "And in the tenth dark night the gods carried me to the island Ogygia", Calypso where he served as gracious hostess: "I picked, I tried caring and loving ". But she would not let him go and tried to seduce him with spells. "She told me that I would often immortal and senescence free forever", Ulysses confesses, who explains that "I was detained there seven years and constantly watered with tears the clothes that I gave divinales Calypso".
The cave is accessed through a hole in the ground which is now cordoned off with warning that can not pass. Some stone steps descend into the
The cave is accessed through a hole in the ground which is now cordoned off with warning that can not pass. Stone stairs descend into and a handrail in very poor condition complicates the operation. We have not come here to peek satisfied with the cave, so after a look around giving away the tape and went down into of the cavity, where you see another opening in the cliff filled with the infinite blue of the Mare Nostrum.
Ulysses took seven years to get out of here. "When it was the eighth year, I called and invited me to go ". Calypso then gave him a raft, "Plenty of fresh bread and wine", divinales dresses and gave "favorable wind and placid" to the trip. We can not stand or seven minutes. Literary curiosity satisfied, we left the cave of Calypso careful not partirnos the chrism.
[tab:practical information]
-The best option is to stay in Gozo rent a cottage and enjoy the peaceful routine of the island. More information www.visitmalta.com.
-A good place to eat is the terrace of The Cartel, in Marsalforn (something like "Hot Creek" in Maltese). Appetizer and Gozitan (Maltese sausage seasoned pork with coriander seeds, olives, caper, goat cheese, dried tomato and eggplant) and rabbit stew worth. The wines are of his own winery. The food comes out to about 25 euros per person.
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Comments (2)
Mayte
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Super interesting Ricardo. Another place I would like to go! Is that not enough time in a life….
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ricardo
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I do not know if the above will give us the work of other, so will have to take this. Thank you very much Mayte
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