Gualichu: in search of the sacred tree of the offerings

For: Gerardo Bartolomé (text and photos)
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"Good afternoon", I. Man, who had stopped his work when he saw my truck entering his field, I waved back politely.. "Heard Gualichu tree?”, I asked. I said no, but showed interest in my question, sensing that behind it there was a compelling story. That the County 180 years ago a traveler had written in that area was a tree sacred to the Indians and their branches hung offerings. The man had never heard about it, but together reread the description and agreed with me that the place had to be close.

The tree in question must be a carob, since in the area that species grows solitary and live for many years, sometimes centuries. But, man doubted that the tree was still standing, because they were very old carob. "When we started planting with tractor - he explained the trees were interposed, so most were felled ". This locust was found beside the old road. "I spent back there", said pointing to his house. "They are still the huellones leaving the old carts."

The story and incredible characters I was discovering the small finds from, as those few lines Darwin's diary that I had taken to the extreme south of the Pampean plain

I was beginning research on my next book, "The conquest of Roses", whose story focuses on the time when Argentina was fighting against the Indians, expanding its territory. Malones, captive, forts, death and survival scored a lopsided war that had a predictable end. The story and incredible characters I was discovering the small finds from, as those few lines Darwin's diary that I had taken to the extreme south of the Pampean plain.

We keep going and, a few kilometers, a sign warned of certain archaeological work carried out within 1.000 meter of the route. These were the remains of the post called "Getting Well", certainly the "First Wells" Darwin said he was very close to the carob. No doubt we had passed very close to where the tree was.

In nearby El Carmen asked about the carob. The manager of the tourist office promised to find out. Local museum knew people who could help

In nearby El Carmen asked about the carob. The manager of the tourist office promised to find out. Local museum knew people who could help. I continued my journey, but would return to El Carmen on my way back to Buenos Aires. A week later, when I returned to the tourist office, the same young man told me that in the museum were still looking for the tree, but I advanced: "It seems that the tree lived until 40 years ". Even someone had a photo of him. Regrettably, more data would not take several days later, when I'd be back in Buenos Aires.

It really into the theme of war with the Indians had under my belt with endless stories. As, eg, that of an old French soldier who had fought for Napoleon and had defended their field of Indian raid in a small canyon. Killed scores of Indians, but that did not stop him and his family died beheaded. Or the little son of a chieftain who converted to Catholicism and was beatified. Or that the very Juan Manuel de Rosas, the most important politician in Argentina at the time, had killed with his revolver three young Indians who refused to tell him where his tribe camped. Juan Manuel, he returned to Buenos Aires with the pompous title of "Hero of the Desert", had established their main camp near Fortin Mercedes, where today a reconstruction evokes a frontier fort with the infidel, as telling the Aboriginal. For Roses, have information on the political movements was essential, therefore established a chain of 23 posts during his famous campaign. Well first of these was a.

Within days of being back in Buenos Aires called me young El Carmen. He had got the picture

Later I passed another milestone indigenous, the Sierra de la Ventana, for the Indians was also linked with the malevolent deity, Gualichu. At the foot of these slopes was another post of Roses, La Posta del Sauce, that gave birth to the small town of Saldungaray.

The Route 3 follows almost perfectly the way of the posts of Roses. As they reached Buenos Aires remembered the Desert Campaign of Juan Manuel failed because when he learned that the locals wanted him back as their governor left his campaign to return to the capital. All those deaths and suffering, on one side and the other, came to nothing, since shortly after the army withdrew the Indians resumed their territory. So it was that it occurred to me that my new book was called "The Conquest of Roses".

Within days of being back in Buenos Aires called me young El Carmen. He had got the picture, I was sending the. From my reading I had learned that the Indians called "Gualichu" to all places where bad things had happened; and go in that area if bad things had happened.

When I got the picture I was amazed that a picture is so unattractive could have so much value to me. I had finally found the tree Gualichu.

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Comments (1)

  • Ignacio Schwerdt

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    Hello! You have the photo of the tree in the further definition that you own? You could send me by mail? I'm doing some research on Gualichu as hobbie. From already thank you very much! Greetings
    Ignacio

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