Ghosts of the Colony
How many times had passed through Cologne? No less than fifteen. It is almost mandatory step for all Argentines, in summer, look for the white beaches of Uruguay. By ferry crosses the sea of fresh water called Rio de la Plata and this prevents a return of 400 km. Always took advantage to take some pictures in this city so special. In one of these occasions my wife and I promised to visit out of season; when we taste depopulated. When ghosts would tell his story.
It is no coincidence that Cologne is located right in front of Buenos Aires and it is not by chance that the case, originally, a Portuguese colony. "¿Portuguese?”, ask the reader. This is! The history of this city is closely tied to the vicissitudes of empires of Portugal and Spain.
We chose an autumn weekend, when almost no one visits Uruguay, to cross the sea of fresh water again
We chose an autumn weekend, when almost no one visits Uruguay, to cross the sea of fresh water again. It was cold but the weather was good. In little more than an hour landed, leaving the stuff in the hotel and went for a walk. The cobbled streets and old houses wanted to transport us back two hundred years, when soldiers and smugglers crowded taverns counting the thousand and one exploits.
The Treaty of Tordesillas was not clear. Spain and Portugal argued over the spot where the line dividing America. A whole range, called the Banda Oriental del Uruguay, was disputed. As so often, was Portugal who took the initiative. He founded a city, New Colony of the Blessed Sacrament, front of Buenos Aires to promote the illegal trade with the Spanish city at the same time threaten the alternative path that Spain had the rich silver mines of Upper Peru (Bolivia currently). The Spanish governor minced no laps formed a force and attacked the settlement. He took it without difficulty. Portugal complained to the Pope, it to the King of Spain, it to the Governor. Result: if devolvió Cologne to Portugal.
Colony changed hands several times. Spain took her by the arms and Portugal regained by diplomacy. Until Napoleon invaded the Peninsula
In the twentieth century the old town was abandoned, almost in ruins, until the Uruguayan government decided to rebuild, some forty years ago. It was one of the few truly ancient cities of America. Fortunately they realized their value. Little by little, their ruined houses were restored. With my wife we entered the businesses where friendly and boring salesmen attended us and offered us mate.
Only Portugal regained "his" fortified Cologne. He built a wall and a citadel. The back and forth between the two Iberian countries had their impact on the Rio de la Plata; so Cologne changed hands several times. Spain took her by the arms and Portugal regained by diplomacy. Until Napoleon invaded the Peninsula.
The old town you can visit in a couple of hours but it is so attractive that we stopped at every turn to take a picture, to read a historical sign or simply enjoy the atmosphere. The sun was setting. We decided to go to the hotel. Would return at night to visit the ghosts of the city.
With Spain unable to react Buenos Aires took advantage and rebelled but the Banda Oriental has refrained. The King of Portugal, exiliado en Río de Janeiro, also took the opportunity and invaded what is now Uruguay. Annexed it with the name of Cisplatin Province. Montevideo and Colonia Lusitanian passed hands again but this time Spain was not able to recover.
A waiter with a mustache "handlebars" and a cash register in the twenties helped us believe we had traveled back in time to a time not well defined
When we had lanterns to Cologne in a ghostly gloom. We look for a restaurant with ancient atmosphere. There were almost no guests. A waiter with a mustache "handlebars" and a cash register in the twenties helped us believe we had traveled back in time to a time not well defined. A good glass of wine also helped.
The Banda Oriental would not give up just like that. The Imperial forces had to endure a constant guerrilla warfare where every platoon that moved away from the walls fell under the guns of the patriots. The resistance was finally organized when a group called "the thirty-three Uruguayans" embarked in Buenos Aires and Uruguay made landfall near Cologne. Hundreds of villagers flocked to his call and motion, with much struggle, was able to expel the invader. Cologne and the rest of the Banda Oriental had won their freedom. The ruins of the old Franciscan monastery in the city testify to the ferocity of the fight.
When we finished eating we left the restaurant and we wrapped the dark and very cold. Now the old town was really empty, had fallen to its ghosts. With my camera and tripod I tried to capture these images of the colonial past.
Coordinates: Lat-34gr 28min 21seg, Long - 57gr 51min 6seg
Comments (3)
Ana Luisa
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Tus All stories are as gripping as interesting, no doubt that at some point I have the luxury of giving me one of your books. Greetings Gerardo.
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Gerardo Bartolomé
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Thanks Ana Luisa. Not be excluded that make a book with all these stories!
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Peter Ravenelle
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Hi Gerardo,
Very good your story. I know Colonia well. My mom was born there. We still have a house in Cologne and sometimes we will visit the Family.
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