Manila: What is 1861, 1981? (Part II)

For: Miquel Silvestre (text and photos)
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(It comes from the post anterior)

Only the last two days have been so hard that seem impossible. Catbalogan left behind on the 9 in the morning and headed north from Leyte. I was very lucky and it rained. Almost a miracle. The road alternated. Sometimes very good firm and other cracked asphalt. High Heat. He was sweating profusely in my costume though open carry. On 12 and a half came to Allen, point from which ferries sail toward Luzon. My arrival caused the usual sense. The poverty of these people are just fixing up the minor details of my computer, as my sunglasses. For me there are no, his invisible. Not like my Swiss watch which I have removed and replaced by plastic that was in this forecast. But they are not invisible. Detected at a glance all you have and they do not.
- How much does the bike?He asks a young sailor.
-Much. Do you care.
- And the glasses? How much?
I was surprised by the question. I did not expect. I do not know what they cost these glasses. Adidas Eyewear provided to me as sponsorship. Are great but I do not know its value.
- Are original?Insists.
Ask if they are original mean if not a forgery.
Yes, original.
'Then are expensive.

Yes, are the, no doubt they are for this unfortunate sailing back and forth between both sides for minimum wage, if that exists in the Philippines. But, is luckier than the kids I see swimming in the harbor. Out of school, very thin and brown, fibrous but becoming adults too fast. I mean a vicious form of adult. With just 12 years and smoke as road no one scolded. Passengers who throw coins and they dive to achieve. Climb the ropes to the upper decks to the indifference of the crew are thrown into the water and prancing. They are acrobats and have pirate blood in his veins. But what they have is future.

With just 12 years and smoke as road no one scolded. Passengers who throw coins and they dive to achieve.

I picked up my tank bag and left the cellar. A bastard kept on the engine of his bus and was suffocating in that space remain closed. On the cover all the seats were occupied. I sat on the floor and exhaustion came over me. I was still an hour and a half to cross the Strait of San Bernardino. How long am I lay on the hard iron plate, zips closed trouser pockets to prevent theft, put my head in the bag and I was sound asleep. I woke up dazed and confused. I looked at my watch. He had spent a whole hour soundly lying in a crowd that came and went without caring or dirt or the discomfort of metal bed.

It gives me all the same. Eating with hands, dirt, cockroaches, non-potable water

I realized then how far we had come on my journey and not just geographically. My body and my spirit had become. Had hardened, yes, but also brutalized. Being able to sleep in such a situation meant it was made of sterner stuff, a paste similar to all those guys I've seen ragged sleeping rough in Africa, India, Nepal and Asia. It gives me all the same. Eating with hands, dirt, cockroaches, non-potable water. At the same time, sleep well meant he was very tired. I'm very tired. I demand a lot, perhaps too, every day is another proof to overcome driving, writing, taking photos and video.

As puberty pass off the brightness, Matt becomes the bottom of your eyes, are brutalized and men become prematurely worn

1861, 1981, 1861, 1981. Reaching Luzon was only the beginning of another long journey. The ferry docked and the scene was repeated for children. They jumped from our deck and the horizon verdísimo palm trees and blue sea made them perfect frame for your reckless freedom. I envied his agility, its slenderness, his youth, their spontaneous joy, but not its future. Soon they will be repeated in the sad phenomenon I have seen in Africa. The African kids see the world as these kids. With large eyes full of curiosity. As puberty pass off the brightness, Matt becomes the bottom of your eyes, are brutalized and men become prematurely worn. I do not like the dramatic jump between childhood intelligence and adult idiocy, perhaps caused by the inertia, and not thinking too much alcohol. In Muslim countries hate that you can not drink beer at home; Christians but hate the size of its consumption, especially among the poorest.

The volcano was mine, I contemplated for a moment and went. The next mile I made almost no sense, boosted by my happiness butterfly hunter

I went up north. Luzon is different. Do not know how to describe it and why, but is different from the other islands. I left my side the Bulusan volcano Mayon as a prelude, near Legazpi City. When I arrived at its foothills was already 4 pm. Had been driving from 9 and was very tired. But I wanted to take a picture of the cone. As I approached, the clouds covered it and the prospect was not good. I did not want to sleep in Legazpi. The city was crowded and dirty medium but. I saw no hotel or at least tolerable desirable. I preferred to go and put aside the opportunity for a photograph at sunrise. I consoled myself thinking that it was not so important. That when all is said and done I had not come to the Philippines to give the photo to a crater, however perfect out. I left the city when suddenly, I saw a clear right. A piece of glowing green meadow and in the background, imposing and grandiose, the perfect cone of Mayon great. I put the bike to the beast. The ground was waterlogged but the occasion deserved. I parked, I went down and splashed into the paddy to have a good shot and fired. I caught. The volcano was mine, I contemplated for a moment and went. The next mile I made almost no sense, boosted by my happiness butterfly hunter.

1861, 1861, 1981, 1861. In a small village called San Miguel saw a solid and massive building. A modern construction aspect Castilian. Or at least what the Philippines can be considered Castilian. Guest House. I liked. Just a hunch. 900 weight is a reasonable price. The clean room and good bed. I left my things and asked for a place to eat. I was hungry and thirsty. From breakfast did not enjoy any snack and this damn heat ... There was a restaurant a little further. I asked the owner if he had beer. He said no, but many wanted, because it could go buy it needed.

Joe was what they called American soldiers. The whites are all joes

In the house four women working. The charge, daughter of the owner, two nieces 17 years and a waitress 24. I became the star of the night. I attended every request, delighted to have a Joe, because here's a Joe. I stopped being a mister. Joe was what they called American soldiers. The whites are all joes. So say hello on the street. "O, Joe”. And I say the same. “Ey Joe”. And we all laughed and had good.
- Why only?
-Because I like.
-But your wife?
I have no wife. No children. I have only one bike. I like it. It is fine as it is. I am free to come and go.
'That is very sad.
'Sometimes it is. But not today. I am delighted to be with you.
'But why not have a wife?
'Because no one wants me.
'That can not be true. You are very handsome. Stay in San Miguel and watch find wife.
I do not doubt. But I have to go. My house is the way.
'That is very sad.
-Can be. But not tonight. Give me another beer.

As you scratch apartabas twenty meters from the paved highway Panphilippines, shows the path of mud, houses without sanitation, cows, dogs, cocks, the barefoot kids ...

I remember after finishing the six who had asked walked back down the road as they passed incessant trucks. I woke up groggy and hungover. Take the coffee with cold water and when I went to run something espabilé. The morning traffic and good air was thick and stifling. When I saw a road that veered off the road I got by him. Among the palm trees and rice paddies, Suddenly I came to another world. The country of the Philippines. As you scratch apartabas twenty meters from the paved highway Panphilippines, shows the path of mud, houses without sanitation, cows, dogs, cocks, the barefoot kids ... did forty years ago. But with television. That speaker illusions counterfeit. The puppets who saw the ads had nothing to do with these people so rustic. The stars of the commercials are young urban fringe that there may be waxed in a posh neighborhood in Manila but all are representative of reality in the country. But there were. Dancing on the screen as the symbol of normal cool the aspirational.

I came back soaked, so drenched in my sweat as now. 1981, 1861, 1981, 1861. I showered and took off towards Manila.

(Continue)

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Comments (1)

  • Lisetta

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    I'm still on edge….., I love this life story. I have an almost masochistic to want to mix runs and not….

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