Potters of Pisuerga: the enigmatic rock-cut church

For: Javier Brandoli (text and photos)
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Dug into the rock next to a graveyard. A chapel in the middle of the mountain that looks like a miracle Palencia. Symbols of some of the cultures they dragged their feet into Spain; Persecuted Christians symbols, Masons, Templars and even cultures that are found beyond the sea. The church of San Justo y Pastor is at first sight is a unique place; after the second and third look all becomes impossible.

To visit the shrine should be asked before Bethlehem by Mary, Village woman, Potters of Pisuerga, who keeps the keys and secrets of the temple. The road leading to the rock, ground, and steep rocks shaded by the leaves of many trees that escort, causes an initial high: a stone tower of the seventeenth century who made the bell functions; for emergency warning, well were those of the body or soul. Below, in her womb, has discovered another cave hermit, could also be inhabited by a hermit at the dawn of time and casts further doubt. What seems certain is that it was a baptistery in which holy water inundating new Christians, and later a furnace in which the pots were fired (what the people named). "Studies are being done because it could be that there are more caves in the vicinity of the temple". It would be logical. The limestone of the mountains of northern Palencia, stuck almost Brand Cantabria, was zone hermit.

Many are the traces of those early residents who sought the shelter of nature in that area and took their retirement and lost their faith where the threat of weapons. That could be the beginning of this church. Disciples of San Millán de la Cogolla, died in the year 574 and according Braulio, his biographer, attempted to Christianize the Cantabrian tribes, to that predicted his death by the rejection that showed the word of God, were those who dug in his honor such work; Other theories say they were followers of the child martyrs Justus and Pastor, Alcalá de Henares slaughtered for proclaiming their faith, the 6 of August 304, when they were just seven and nine years old. Between one and another possibility is also the founding date of the temple, ranging from the fourth century and VI, ignored by historians agree.

Yet another surprising cavity before crossing the threshold of the chapel. A cave, deep enough to shelter a person, The ceiling is carved in a shell, the symbol of the Camino de Santiago. Does it make sense that there exists a stop for pilgrims? It is difficult to have a clear position on this point. El Camino de Santiago passes 40 miles south of Pisuerga Olleros, so it is not unreasonable to think that at the time the traveler may be diverted and find lodging in that place. A symbolic host an enclave that releases energy and faith.

Masons Symbols

A few yards further up is the entrance to the chapel. Next to it the cemetery of the people behind a stone ossuary. At the door of the Masonic symbols are stonemasons. Tongs, a ladder and a compass that was drawn to the right of the porch. Right there, bar below (Mason principal symbol), is carved into the rock a cross that resembles the one used by the Templars. It is true that resembles, but it is also true that I have found no document showing that the order of the Temple controlled the shrine sometime, although the guide says they were there after the Benedictines.

Inside the church the mystery multiplies. The building itself seems to stand still. Two ships in the barrel vault of what would be a Romanesque church XI or XII century (is carved on the original hermit's cave) separated by column, of which only two are artificial, the rest belong to the rock itself.

Next to the first cave in which dwelt the first hermit, This church was built impossible. Going from the inside out, at the first compartment would be the home of a man who made an internal pipeline by passing water; even a laundry area that expelled outside the sewage. María Belén again points to a cleft in the rock. At first glance looks like a cross, from another angle a four inverted. "There were times when Christians were persecuted and had to hide their symbols", explains. Could be a reason for this strange cross, but also nothing seems clear at this point.

No break in the surprises, with another font, is in one of the side chapels, there is a rock, that the studies say it may be of Roman

It is not the only example of doubt and mystery that dwells among the rocks. In a column there is a font that symbolizes an image Aztec, phone says, but as in previous cases is difficult to separate legend and reality (is true that form is typical of the culture that dominated the mexican). No break in the surprises, with another font, is in one of the side chapels, there is a rock, that the studies say it may be of Roman, and seems the base of a column (is in poor condition) in which a reverse swastika guess, symbol from Asia and then centuries later formed part of the scenery of Nazi Germany.

The linkage of the chapel and Roman civilization it has left its mark in history. Olleros near the castro of Monte was Cildá, inhabited by a tribe Cantabria, and that the Romans occupied and destroyed, and other remains found nearby. Around it are a huge cemetery. A, the largest, is current; the other, inside and outside the chapel, is a burial cave from the Visigoth period. There are tombs of both off campus and within. In fact, have found stone coffins in what should be a wake chapel and retains two anthropomorphic tombs. It is known that it was a wake for the color of the walls blackened, caused by smoke from the candles that lit the monks when they prayed to one of their own. About, at the time of the monks who lived there (medieval) women and men lived in the same enclosure, then, had a higher level in the sleeping.

All this is part of the hermitage of Pisuerga Olleros. I say partly because it is an impossible place, in which the symbols and stones accumulate, sometimes for no reason and sense. Worth a visit, seems almost obligatory when you've been there. Many are those who are currently studying, many who lived their ferrous walls, however, appear to move. This is the penultimate secret: the roof is a curved line that swings in the eyes.

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Aguilar de Campo belongs to. It comes joining the A-67.

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Nearby is a house Olleros, "Cortijo Las Monjas", Villaescusa de las Torres in that whole rent. Accommodation of eleven places at the foot of a natural monument of Tuerces. The people, very small and in a privileged, is a place of tranquility and relaxation. Telephone: 651 984 815.

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We did not eat in the area. I have no nearby restaurant to recommend nignún.

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Palencia is a little known province in Spain. The great legacy of Roman art is just outstanding, but, at least, for those who dare to visit the area I recommend you go to Frómista, Tierra de Campos in full, and Carrión de los Condes.

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Comments (1)

  • Galván

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    How beautiful is my Palencia and so unknown place. Go and see this church, is precious, tucked inside the rock. Thank you for disclosing.

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