Palm: beats of La Ciutat at dawn

For: Ricardo Coarasa (text and photos)
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[tab:Travel]
The historic center of Palma is to enter the soul of the city, window into their stately courtyards arrested shadows, surprised with the makings of an imposing cathedral, stroll through intricate streets always seem back on themselves, as such remorse that buffeted the consciences. Getting into the old town is reunited with forgotten medieval readings, sniff the remains of the Medina Mayurca Arabic, immersed in the old Jewish quarter; be lost, ultimately, between stones full of history invite us to go walking.

This is usually the visitor who chooses the city, how, the where, the when. On rare occasions, however, the city is what you said, which opens your heart unexpectedly, when not even have time to savor its secrets, when you want to lose its corners, but you can not. But when the traveler hears the call, nothing can stop, stringent schedules or a long day of work or any impediment in your way. It happened a few years ago Jerusalem, I was surprised when leaving the hotel at dawn toward the Western Wall. It happened again a few weeks ago in Palma de Mallorca, as I walked the old town with a Sunday morning, a hurried visit that does not diminish one iota my admiration for all that I saw.

The streets are facing the sea, that seem haunted by the spell of the Mediterranean, one step of the Market

Down the street Passeig del Born, Palma stretches sparingly Sunday. The avenue is deserted, clean and in perfect magazine. An indigent is washed by the Fountain of the Turtles while, a little below, a hose cools the asphalt. Behind the walk spreads a tangle of streets in places medieval roots as special as the carrer of the sea, one step away from the colorful Plaça de la Reina, and arch. The streets are facing the sea, that seem haunted by the spell of the Mediterranean, one step of the Market, that names a place that overlooks the port and maritime.

At the end of the ride watching the two sphinxes facing walker, popularly known as "lions". But look inevitably rises to the rose window in the cathedral, happens to be the largest in Europe, now bathed by the first rays of sun. Between the sea and La Seu, the call of the Mediterranean is more intense. I look for first light in front of the gazebo, in the rows of buttresses that challenge the Mare Nostrum, formerly with the water reached the very shadows of the temple. It was fair that the land was borrowed sea named Parc de la Mar. From here look majestic cathedral and neighboring Almudaina Palace, the former residence of the kings of Mallorca.

The sight of the cathedral is magical. It is a burning stone temple, exulting in the splendor of new day, one of those postcards you remember for years

The stone walls of La Seu take that mirrored copper tones in the artificial lake that stands between its many centuries of history and many more in the Mediterranean. It is a duel of titans, at this time of the morning, sign boards. The sight of the cathedral is magical. It is a burning stone temple, exulting in the splendor of new day, one of those postcards you remember for years. The Silence of fishing and recreational cyclists make the moment even more special (the proximity of the highway is the only lift troublemaker, but fortunately did not even wake up early on Sundays cars).

Retracing my steps, I pause a while in the King's Garden, the gardens of the Almudaina, Defined as a haven of peace in a city that is, a hora tan temprana, an oasis of tranquility would be, and a topicazo, too redundant. Murmurs by the pool of Arab, discovery: a small pit in which you look at a tower of Almudaina Palace. A little later, out of the gardens, a succession of steps (Costa de la Seu) anticipate the emergence of the portico of the cathedral, against which the traveler misses only a little more perspective to admire as it deserves.

In the medieval Jewish quarter of narrow streets seems even more, perhaps as an expression of sorrow for the expulsion of its former inhabitants

The streets are deserted La Ciutat sweepers while finish work. Behind the temple, the Street Palau Reial leads me, between houses and courtyards of exposure, until the Almudaina, where an arc marks the place where the citadel was situated Muslim, long before, one of the gates of the Roman wall. It is a charming corner that guide our steps either to the Arab baths, While in the direction Call Major, medieval Jewish quarter, where the streets seem to narrow even more, perhaps as an expression of sorrow for the expulsion of its former inhabitants (the forced conversion su, amounts to the same: when someone is bound to be another, ceases to be self) in the fifteenth century.

It abandoned the instinct, and keep the street in your pocket, to really enjoy this unique historical site. You may end up in the arcades of the Plaza Major, where sat his royal Inquisition into the dreaded Black House, in the Plaça del Mercat or admiring the sea again on the look that comes from the Bishop's Palace, with the Bay of Palma our feet and the Castell de Bellver yonder. In any case, sure will be worth. Above all, if we decide to wake up early to hear our footsteps, and our doubts, between these streets full of history and magic.

[tab:a table set]

Hyacinth House (Cami Tramway, 37) is a classic in Palma. The downside is you have to take a taxi, because it is something out of the way. Everything else is an advantage. Do not miss "tumbet" and grilled meat. The value is good.

-For those who prefer the center, the options are varied. It preferimos a dinner and informal Wineing (The lid of the wine), on Pointers, 24, is an original site that offers a good selection of national and international wines served the customer to taste (Tasting, small or large glass) loading each drink on a card. Chopping, the inevitable sobrasada with honey and agave (the goat cheese is delicious). The dinner comes out to about 20 per head.

-A weakness: the Forn de Sant Joan (Sant Joan, 4), the Market. The letter is not cheap, but the week has a great menu for 15 EUR. The presentation is excellent. Do not leave without trying the bass.

-Another historic Mallorcan cuisine, more than half a century behind, is the Celler Sa Premsa (Bishop Berenguer de Palou square, popularly known as "skate plaza"). Family atmosphere and rustic decor. The rabbit on the grill itself justify the visit. Menus very cheap (11,50 EUR) and a great variety of dishes.

[tab:best buns]

-In Palma there is little chance of making a mistake buying buns. If you do not want to buy on site (with the consequent extra charge) or airport, the Old Forn d'es Reco (Salas, 4), behind the Passeig del Born, makes exquisite. Addition, can be purchased vacuum packed (endure three days without resenting the quality).

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Comments (3)

  • Mariasun

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    Very well chosen everything you say of Palma and its old town (ciutat vella). And best chosen that first photo of the Cathedral reflected in the water, picture we can see that even looked like travelers who came to this city from the fourteenth century

    Answer

  • ricardo

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    Thanks Mariasun, the truth is that the Old Town of Palma has a special charm. Greetings

    Answer

  • Elena Artigas

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    Ago 2 months I have been to Palma,I enjoyed your article,you made me relive my happy estancia.La next time the kick at dawn. Thanks Elena

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