Unknown by Jaén (II): Giribaile, Pompeii small Iberian

For: Ricardo Coarasa. Photos: Javier Brandoli
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The track increasingly narrow wriggle between the horizon of olive, as if they wanted to steal one meters of land planted. Up there, Giribaile the hill stands out as a lonely sentinel of the rivers and Guadalajara Guadalimar. What brought us here? The remains of an Iberian town (oppidum) of almost 15 hectares destroyed without mercy on still pour hypotheses and speculations. A fire which reduced to ashes forever this little Pompeii.

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But Giribaile, located at the end of the town of Jaen Vilches, is not just an old settlement of Iberians. In fact, dismounted when you take the first thing that surprises you is the succession of caves dug into the cliff on which sits the plateau. Old shelter hermits, its first occupants back to the Middle Ages. The last still living. Of them know much Juan Peña, who has spent years collecting testimonies, with patience and tenacity, for the memory of the last of Giribaile not lost forever. With the same passion, Juan guide our steps by sifting through the mysterious past of this place.

These huts, interconnected by narrow labyrinth, were ultimately provisional temporary home when he played pick olives. Some have collapsed, because the clay soil is a rope always on the verge of shaking them. At his feet there are several houses crumbling and sinister that we soon go back to the bowels of this monument in the history of Spain. It is difficult to imagine the conditions in this oppressive environment, surrounded by stone walls wet ("Mount flowing water on all sides", John is responsible for reminding). And gives a flush, truth, Now we do a drama that we spoil a couple of days the microwave.

It is difficult to imagine the conditions in this oppressive environment, surrounded by stone walls wet

We climbed to the plateau by a staircase carved into the rock on whose steps are to have mused esoteric meanings. Besides its connotations, deserve the truth is that decorate the castle of a hobbit. At the top, The first thing to do is turn to enjoy the scenery, really spectacular, endless rows of olive trees, surrounding the three reservoirs (they attach to people ringing Vilches notoriety of being the town with more inner coast of Spain), the harems of the hills that are lost in the horizon. Course, these Iberians knew what he was doing. The location is unbeatable, domineering, strategic, almost impregnable. And extensive, extensive, as much as 15 soccer fields, of which only one has been excavated 0,2 percent, a lack archaeological has an added value: Giribaile remains virtually as it left its last inhabitants.

This particular trip to the lives of the Iberian, go ahead, is mostly intuitive. The remains of the wall that fortified the city, eg, are now just a series of mounds. Nature, sooner or later, takes its revenge. And that even though, in its heyday, had almost 250 ten meters long and high at some points. But let us now in the most controversial episode Giribaile. How and when gone? There are two plausible hypotheses and both have historical grips shaft: Plutarch, a, y Tito Livio, the other.

The first suggests that the city would be the old Orisia, Sertorius ravaged by the year 90 before Christ retaliation for having assisted the neighboring Castulo. Plutarch tells how the Roman tribune executed his revenge on "the other city, from which came the night that they had been surprised ". Course, were caught by surprise because "finding the door open, he came to blows large population, they thought out to greet his friends and fellow citizens ". Far. The unfortunate "received the death at the door and others who surrendered were sold slaves hows" (Sertorius, III, 5-10).

received death at the door and others who surrendered were sold slaves howto

To dive in the second hypothesis about the destruction of Giribaile have to go back in time a century. It would then Orongis City, "The richest city in that region", wiped out by Lucius Scipio in the 207 before Christ. To break the supposed advantage to the enemy "to be fighting from the top of the wall", Lucius Scipio was accompanied by 10.000 infantry and other 1.000 horse riding. Taking Orongis left on the battlefield the bodies of 90 Romans and 1.000 besieged.

If something in Giribaile gives us an idea of ​​how the homes of the Iberians should be, ironically, the plundering of the French geologist Georges Servajean. Without thinking twice, began to dig on their own in the years 1968 and 1969. Until he was caught he had time to identify 19 tastings. Now, the stones that mark these primitive houses with stone plinths and adobe walls are eaten by weeds, but you can still see the courtyard around which the rooms were divided. The makings of the city should be formidable. "There is a city in Spain Iberian of this size that remains intact", corroborates John.

Underfloor, on the ancient streets of flat stones, usual tripping ceramics, remains of old Iberian jars abandoned to plunder and pillage, with traditional geometric decoration. In the northeast corner of the hill is cut the figure of the medieval castle of Giribaile. Moorish fortress, was conquered by the armies of Ferdinand III The Saint. Legend has it that the lord, Gil Bayle, he set a sign that was a challenge to the destination. "I am lord of Giribaile, and not die of thirst, of exposure or starvation ". But after exercise his droit de seigneur with the daughter of a miller's family took his revenge and locked him in one of the caves, where he died, precisely, of thirst, Cold and hunger. This is what has to challenge the Fates. The views from here are simply magnificent, This exceptional brooch immersion time of the Iberians.

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For the A-4 (Motorway of Andalusia), deviate The Carolina towards the hamlet of Vilches (from Madrid are more than two hours by car). From there follow up in this county Arquillos and take the A-312 that will Linares. Have to look at a detour to the left indicating the track that leads to Giribaile.

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And Casa Curro, in Guadalajara (is reached by road after passing Arquillos the road to the swamp), you can taste, in a homely and family atmosphere, excellent game meat on tables with brasero. Do not forget to taste the crumbs.

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Very near Ubeda, in the town of Sabiote, dominated by the imposing castle that once belonged to Francisco de los Cobos, is the Palace of handles (www.palaciolasmanillas.com), a stone casoplón a memorable gastronomic ("Pavo frito", jienenes spinach, the spectacular eggs mojetón, pickled partridge and olive oil ice cream was our menu). Manuel Cabrera, its owner, is an excellent host.

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Cave Lobera
The cave of Lobera, Castellar, boasts a shrine over the Iberian 2.300 years old when we got, dodging a large flock of sheep, by the old Roman road Heraklea. In this place of pilgrimage Iberians worshiped their gods (probably inherited from the Phoenicians), Tani headed, the mother goddess of fertility. "How many gods, the pantheon Iberian? "We are in a position to know. It seems that at least one female deity, insurance ", makes clear the archaeologist Luis Gutierrez, knowledgeable as few of the historical intricacies of this set of connected caves.
Castellar
In the same locality Castellar is highly recommended to approach the museum displaying the retrieved Iberian votive shrine. The enclave, the Ducal Palace of Medina, is exceptional. And do not miss the view from the roof.
www.semerturismo.com
Shemer Turismo organizes tours of the province of Jaén, especially guided tours of the lesser known destinations, Giribaile, among themselves. Ask for Pablo Lozano, exceptional guidance and expert on the history of Jaén.

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Comments (1)

  • Ambrosio Fernandez

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    I am from Linares , I think we have something in the area,something totally indescribable.

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