Rebuilding Machado in Soria

For: Ricardo Coarasa (text and photos)
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The train moves by the Castilian plain swings once, not even dreamed of when the AVE. The reviewer, anachronistic apparel, asks the tickets as before. A country woman, hand basket, recites verses Antonio Machado. As the poet a century ago, although not on the wood of a third-class carriage, we address Soria by train. It is the inaugural ride Campos de Castilla train, that draws travelers from Madrid the experiences and work of Machado in Soria land.

Guadalajara, Siguenza, Almazan… "The train, walking, always makes us dream ". And finally Soria, the city reached by the poet in May 1907 after obtaining professorship to teach French in their school; the city that shocked to marry a teenager, Leonor Izquierdo, the 15 years; the city where he found honey and gall, "Cold Soria, Pure Soria, Extremadura head, with warrior ruined castle on the Douro ".

We walked along the shores of golden aspens that the poet attended to San Saturio, the chapel that stands on the river as a standard rock and silence

¿Where we seek Machado in Soria? Where are we with his verses that caress the soul and feelings buffeted? On the banks of Duero, first, course. We walked along the shores of golden aspens that the poet frequented between San Polo and San Saturio, the chapel that stands on the river as a standard rock and silence, a spectrum vigilant in this cold spring, "Humble as the dream of a blessed".

"Poplars on the banks of the Duero, you go with me, my heart the lleva "

From the cave where the hermit lived back in the seventh century, located in the bowels of the temple, Santeria home for centuries, the Douro flashes licking our feet Sierra de Santa Ana, shaping the landscape and character of the people Soria. At the tomb of San Saturio, where he buried his faithful disciple Prudencio, marriageable girls still flock to this shrine to seek pins under the mantle of the image of Santa Ana, Wedding omen safe. Those far heard safe to approach the story of a miracle, the child 6 years, in 1772, ravine fell from a window and they found uninjured knees beside the Duero. What would a sanctuary without its share of legends and miracles in tow?

San Juan de Duero is certainly a magical, a haven where to see those “quiet afternoons” of “violet mountains” decline

Without leaving the river banks, by running a path signposted fleeing rush and starts, we now turn to Monastery of San Juan de Duero, at the feet of the enigmatic Mount of Souls. The original cloister of the old monastery of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, amalgam of architectural styles, roofing is orphaned and Castilian opens to the sky with the insolence of his many years. Is this definitely a magical, a haven where you see decline these "Quiet evenings" the "Violet mountains, River malls, dream green gray soil and brown earth ".

Legend has it that every night of the dead in the nearby mountain souls wander the Knights Templar buried here, a story that did not discourage the young Alonso, driven by his love Beatriz, looking at this lot, evening precisely 31 October, I had lost a handkerchief. Beatriz Alonso never returned but woke up in his bed the next morning by the bloody handkerchief, crazy for the rest as a, dying instantly print as another large letters, Gustavo Adolfo Becquer, who immortalized this legend, initialed by the specter of a woman who still tousled hair, occasionally, is caught prowling Alonso's grave:

"Do you hear? The bell tolls, prayer has sounded in San Juan del Duero, Mount souls now begin to lift his yellow skulls from weeds covering their graves… Souls!”

Still with the harrowing story of Beatrice and Alonso challenging the common sense, cast foot by Soria center where a bust of sullen Machado (Orchard Square), Only a few meters separated the young poet seated statue, we receive in high school where she taught French, that bears his name (Old Customs, 12). It still retains the classroom where the teacher Machado (odds with the teaching, that the le apasionaba precisely) taught his students the language of Moliere.

When the poet sings Soria and landscapes, you never really know if it makes the city or your girl muse

Very near here, pensions were both stayed where Machado (the first in the number 54 Collado Street; in the number 7 Studies of the second street, where there is now a sandwich shop). In this latter, run by Isabel Cuevas and Ceferino Left, met his daughter Leonor, A teenage girl 13 years he fell in love without reference, scandalizing the traditional society of the time soriana. Two years later, in July 1909, married. He was one of the worst days of his life, "A true martyrdom", raged for a peasantry expletives dissatisfied with the link for the age difference between the spouses (Machado Tennis 35 years). His love for Leonor was of such intensity that, when the poet sings Soria and landscapes, you never really know if it makes the city or your girl muse.

Machado's poems resonate in the classroom with the roundness of the Castilian plains, stripped of artifice, transparent, deep in its apparent simplicity. The floorboards creak as the soriano Pepe Sanz recited in silence that is only because the poet and his verses, the naked truth. And his faith in "Another miracle of Spring" to the improvement of his wife ephemeral, seriously ill from tuberculosis in 1911.

"The old elm, split by lightning and its half rotten, with April showers and May sun, some green leaves have gone "

Before leaving the wake Soria Machado should approach two places where the poet also left their mark: the casino or Friendship Circle, of which he was a partner and you can visit the Poets House (memory yielding, also, a Bécquer y Gerardo Diego) and Voyeur, one of the most privileged vantage over the Douro and the city, frequented on trips around the marriage, where to commemorate the centenary of the arrival of Machado in Soria got up a few years ago an evocative statue on top of the hill, in known as Viewpoint of the Four Winds.

The last visit to the cemetery should lead Espino, Leonor burial place, died in August 1912

And, course, the last visit should lead to Hawthorn Cemetery, Leonor burial place, died in August 1912. "One summer night, the balcony was open and the door of my house- death in my house came ". A goodbye that also led to Machado, Soria is dismissed virtually forever (except for a brief visit twenty years later for a distinction). Although he could not forget his landscapes or, course, of his beloved, as evidenced by the verses he wrote, since the distance, a su amigo José María Palacio:

"With the first lilies and early roses from the gardens, on a blue afternoon, up to hawthorn, the high Espino where your land…”

Steps lead Machado, the culmination, to Black Lagoon, at the foot of Urbión peak, on the same sources del Duero, where the poet went (first mail coach and then, horse riding) in the fall of 1910, a journey that shone "The land of Alvargonzález", the shocking tale of children who kill their father to inherit his estate, throwing his body into the lagoon, "Transparent and silent water".

"In the bottomless lake dropped dead father. No sleeping on the ground that worked the land "

One hour from the city of Soria, this impressive glacial cirque is reached by car virtually (Machado took three days), except the final five minutes of walking a path conditioning for visitors (up with wooden railings). I think a gorgeous venue it deserves more effort, facilities but are welcome if they serve to spread the beauty of this lake, "Water impossible that holds within it the stars". Who wants to walk up, anyway, may do so by a variant of the path Iberian Soria (GR-86). This natural setting is a superb climax to the land route sorianas Machado, a beauty so strongly as that of his verses.

More information about the route and the train Machado Campos de Castilla (May to November) in www.soriavacaciones.es or 975 232 252.

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Comments (4)

  • Lydia

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    My first memory of Soria, (was very small) is a huge slice of bread with a delicious butter, in the kitchen of the hostel where we spent the night.
    I enjoyed this article because it has made me relive my trip to Soria, as an adult.
    Apart from the capital, toured several villages.
    I constantly accompanied, a huge sense of peace, of tranquility, of rest.
    I was a July and lucky for me, I found nowhere agglomerations. I enjoyed its Romanesque churches, its different landscapes, its people…
    When I visited the Black Lagoon, instantly understood why there are so many legends and stories inspired by her.
    This route is among those who want to repeat.

    Answer

  • ricardo Coarasa

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    Thanks Lydia, the flavors and smells of childhood are never forgotten right? I'm glad you revived your stay in Soria through this report. Thank you very much for following. Greetings

    Answer

  • Alvaro ACENA

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    Thanks, my friend's brother, for having known so successful capture of what others do not manage to describe what this land means to us.

    Cool photos and great your account.

    I have been reading it as every time I'm over there.

    Answer

  • ricardo Coarasa

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    It happens, Alvaro. I also have trouble talking with my land distance. It gives me a certain modesty. So I'm glad I was able to capture your emotions and feelings about Soria and if, passing, this report serves to diffuse over its many attractions, the better. Abz and thanks

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