Moconá Falls: in the shadow of Iguazú
That expansive Portuguese were a people knows all Spain and that Brazil Lusitanian inherited that passion for enlarge your territory, throughout Latin. Since the seventeenth century the "Bandeirantes", bands audaces Portuguese conquerors, jutted into the Indian continent and looking subjecting yield wealth without cost or effort but, at the same time, gained more and more American territory Spain disdained. So it was that the Portuguese colony and, then, Brazil's empire expanded its borders beyond which marked the Treaty of Tordesillas, into a giant continental dimensions.
But the frontiersmen have disappeared over 200 years and I do not have any of that in mind while driving our van on the rolling roads of Argentina province of Missions. We wanted, back in the Northeast, visit one of the lesser known beauties: the Moconá Falls.
That part of the Argentina, running along the width Uruguay River, was almost cut off from the rest of the country for decades because military strategies dictated that, to the possibility of conflict with Brazil, the best thing was that the area would not have roads where the hypothetical invader could move his numerous troops. Several years ago, the creation of Mercosur, that associated with Brazil and Argentina (along with Uruguay and Paraguay) hypothesis rocked this ridiculous war so they started to open routes, only recently, reached almost unknown jumps over the majestic River Uruguay. The opening of the routes and the arrival of civilization discovered a reality that few knew. I, wielding unprejudiced, the unknown absolutely. The reality of the modern frontiersmen!
We wanted, beyond in northeastern Argentina, visit one of the lesser known beauties: the Moconá Falls
Short of the lodge to which we, I stopped at a gas station only population "large" in the area: The Magnificent. When I got to refuel heard that two people who climbed on an old car spoke in Portuguese. It seemed odd to me, Brazilian tourists because modern cars generally have. Thinking about it I went to pay. In the little stand was a Germanic-looking man with very blond boy in his arms which he spoke in Portuguese. I assumed it was a native Brazilian tourist state Santa Catarina, he had a huge German immigration. As I lived many years in Brazil and Portuguese told domino: "What a big boy blondie" (that blonde guy the guy). Man, sympathetic, he said in his southern Brazilian Portuguese. Finished this little dialogue went to the cashier and, Argentine now most Castilian, le dije wanted to pay. She looked at me puzzled, had probably thought I was Brazilian. I spoke in Castilian but dismissed the perfect blonde man in Portuguese. "What is this? – pinching the ¿-Sound, Brazilian and Argentine?”. They did not speak the typical "appreciative" border. These people speak both languages well.
Confused, still did not understand what was going on in that region, but the tiles of the puzzle began to take shape
We arrived at the lodge, it was a great place, in the middle of the jungle on the river Uruguay. While the manager showed us and explained things about the place I heard, in the kitchen, voices in Portuguese. "The cook is Brazilian?”, I asked. To which he replied "No, Argentina, but here we are all children of Brazilians ". I, confused, still did not understand what was going on in that region, but the tiles of the puzzle began to take shape.
The next morning we left the falls of Moconá. We were stopping at all the viewpoints of the road to photograph the spectacular jungle missionary. In one of the two guys stop selling stones and seeds. Recalling the distant (far away) time when I did something couplet (who did not sell old magazines relatives and neighbors) compared some. The purchase was entirely in Portuguese. Chatting with them I asked if they were fans or International Guild (football teams in Southern Brazil) but they said that did not happen on TV Brazilian Football. One was a fan of River and one of Boca (two Argentine teams). Important cultural and nationalistic aspect of television and football, ¿no? So Latin America.
We were stopping at all the viewpoints of the road to photograph the spectacular jungle missionary
In Moconá Falls Provincial Park we boarded the boat that took us to the long baseline of spectacular jumps. Do not have the height of the nearby Iguazu Falls but are particularly attractive because they are almost two miles of waterfalls longitudinal the Uruguay river travel that has a huge flow. At launch we go through troubled waters to the endless white walls of roaring water. The boat came so we ended up completely soaked but happy to feel the power of nature to its full potential. I do not say much in the description, because the pictures are much more eloquent. I remember the boatman, as he brought the boat to the base of the falls, I explained that the water volume varied widely because upstream dam regulates the flow Brazilian. "Brazilians!”, I thought.
At launch we go through troubled waters to the endless white walls of roaring water
Passing by the park administration noticed that the park ranger had an accent Argentine tango so took the opportunity to ask him about the Argentine-Brazilian in the area. "It's a theme", said. He told me that at election time in the Magnificent candidates run in Portuguese. "But how did this come?”, asked. He said that several years ago, when in that area there were no roads, the land was tax but there was no control, as having no owner. In Brazil, the word spread; Thousands crossed the jungle and occupied the territory of the Argentine side of the Uruguay River. Argentina law allows, after twenty years, becomes land of its occupant. So much interest of Brazilians: Land in Argentina obtained free because nobody is enteraba they were busy. "Now?”, asked. He explained that since the opening of roads Prefecture and Gendarmerie arrived and began to control the border. Yet every so often and crosses any attempts to defend his occupation with the blade of his machete, but the situation has changed. "Anyway, and the area is inhabited by people who came from there ", He pointed in the direction of Brazil "with its language and customs".
Now, Argentina's government is making an effort to "Argentinize" this population. Schools and television play an important role in this process. It is difficult to know whether this strategy will succeed, but the good thing is that, Despite this bizarre situation, no social tension. Maybe in a few years we see that the new generation are somewhat less "abrasilerados" and that, the basis of being Hinchas River to Boca, it integrates the rest of the country.
While driving back to the lodge, with my wife commented on the fabulous lively Moconá Falls were. I slowed down as I passed where the boys sold their stones. Honked the horn and waved. I happily waved back and we, taking our argentinísimo matt, we continue our way through the endless jungle of Misiones.
