Lake Tana: the disadvantages of not being Indiana Jones
While the boat looked ragged with which we have to sail on Lake Tana in search of the tomb Pedro Páez, the Jesuit who discovered the Blue Nile Sources history and who paid with forgetting, I start thinking that something will turn out well. Fatalism is inherent to the traveler, at least in my case; in some ways is the toll to be paid by snubbing the routine and head for the unknown but, in this case, the bad omens are still clouded by two things. Nativity scene, my wife, had insisted on accompanying me to the peninsula of Gorgora, Ethiopia north of Lake (the second largest in Africa and located at higher altitudes, 1.800 meters above sea level), despite that he did not relish the voyage. That did but redouble my concerns. And, especially, thousands of miles, in Spain, we expected our son a year and a half, we had left with his grandparents to keep track of Paez by Ethiopia three weeks.
You never travel alone when you have children, although not accompany you. They travel with you, somehow, because your misfortune is yours and is forced to ask some questions when you take the amount of risk involved in any trip, and in developing countries. Everything will be alright, course, you repeat over and over again in the days before, but suddenly, invariably, you through a flurry of fatalism as a harpoon urgando ice cream in your gut. And I feel terrible. Although you know that you will not stop, you will travel to Ethiopia at any cost, a cloud of gloom overshadows the joy of your heart for a few hours.
You never travel alone when you have children, although not accompany you. They travel with you, somehow, because your misfortune is yours and is forced to ask some questions
The bloody fatalism had now returned to annoy a while. The scene was typically African. Dos "faranji" (foreigners in the local language, Amharic) determined to sail to the remains of the church that raised Paez Gorgorá in 1621. A fistful of dollars in profit (almost 700 Birr, about 50 euros at the exchange, a fortune). No obstacle can ruin this deal. At least not in Africa. And what if there were.
To reach Gorgora we skirted the eastern shore of the Tana, amazing landscape of fertile land, for nearly four hours. Wharf Road clear to us that is not accessible by land with the road to the church where he is buried Paez (Miquel Silvestre, who got there on a bike, He gave good faith of the difficulties that track demonized). The rainy season is rife in African roads. Aware of this difficulty, assail us with offers to what craziest boat to take us to the place. We prefer, however, approach the pier, next to a former residence of the dictator Mengistu, now semi-abandoned (the main room is a decadent hotel).
Is the hardest: drag the boat by a causeway to the shore of Lake. Placing a log after another under the helmet, gradually get closer to the water
The boat used for the path is in the repair and replacement are painting, we report. You can not leave before half past one, adecentarla because managers are resting until then. All this sounds like. I reach the ticket charge 20 birr and is committed to make the operators work, which nevertheless do not appear on the wharf until one. Time is bearing down and start to fear me that the usual evening storm, like clockwork during the rainy season, we caught in the middle passage.
Now is the hardest: drag the boat down an embankment six meters to the lake. Placing a log after another under the helmet, gradually get closer to the water. Halfway there to grab a rusty cart. The last section, the boat glides over rocky stumbled, no mime pushed into the lake.
You have every right to do something crazy from time to time, but then to take care that a photograph of lifetime recordártela…
Do not look for the photo of the barge in the image gallery. Not even entered my head out the camera. You have every right to do something crazy from time to time, but then to take care that a photograph of lifetime recordártela…
Someone brings a Yamaha engine to dock at the stern when a child starts bailing water with a cloth. Without thinking twice, is located in the rear to balance the weight and win a tip, I guess. Joni, our guide for Ethiopian land, does not leave us alone and, with grief reflected in the face, is also heading although, I temo, not swim.
We sailed at high speed, result of this momentum, Water continues to enter the interior of the pot. Soon we are drafts
The engine roars and teaches small boat bow. It is as if a 600 I had just installed a motor Ferrari. We sailed at high speed, result of this momentum, Water continues to enter the interior of the pot. Soon we are drafts. The child does not stop smiling.
It is clear that the pilot in a hurry to get, afraid that the downpour will surprise us all afternoon. The good thing about times like this is that you have much time to think. Quite clearly hear your inner struggle. The waves are growing and increasing the chances of capsizing. I travel with my backpack inseparable, with passports, the camera and the money on. Shipwrecked here, addition to the ordeal of having to swim to shore to avoid a collision with a hippo, would be foolish. I'm not Indiana Jones or, as the teacher said recently Javier Reverte in VAP, I travel to sites looking for hazards. The ability to avoid intuirlos and I think one of the great lessons that gives you travel.
The good thing about times like this is that you have much time to think. Quite clearly hear your inner struggle
I have more and more afraid that something will happen and it hurts tremendously hard time is going Bethlehem. It is unfair that my obsession to reach the tomb of Pedro Paez finish all soaking. The boy is still smiling. The sky darkens barruntando rain.
I ask the driver how much we have to get. Half an hour. I tell you to turn. Bethlehem insists that we continue, because his heart is bigger even than the fear that is going. With the engine stopped, rocked by the lake like a piece of cork, I ask Joni. "I've gone to many boats, but none moved so. We are not sure…”, Case. The pilot wants to know what will happen to your money. Tell him to negotiate on land.
Back. I feel a great relief to have avoided a certain danger of sinking, but at the same time I can not avoid a feeling of bitterness
Back. I feel a great relief to us rid of a certain danger of sinking, but at the same time I can not avoid a feeling of bitterness. I wanted to get to the ruins, Paez's grave step. But not at any price. A journey without imprevitos would cease to be. Carefully planned step on the path to the church of Gorgora that Paez was able to build after converting to Catholicism to the emperor Susinios (was a short-lived triumph, as his successor, Fasilidas, expel the Jesuits, and erase the legacy of Paez). Do not get, at least this time, but I weighed in. Could be more satisfying to have solved a complicated solution. In the spring negotiate payment of travel, which finally closed 200 Birr. I have never regretted that decision although, yes, remember what happened when I think back. Who travels always leaves a trail of outstanding accounts.
Comments (3)
Carlos L
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Ricardo,
Very good article very interesting reflections Yunas about the risks and the fatalism that happen to us when we travel. Congratulations
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First Travel
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Rather than fatalism, maybe it's forecast, sanity of the experience… When things have happened, especially in travel, know what it takes to get to the end, hurts and learn to avoid unnecessary risks, that from the living room seem fun little adventures but, Field, can greatly complicate your life and make you spend a very, but very,bad… Especially in certain countries. Although we do not travel with children (or hand or in the memory), share the perspective that makes you turn around, «por si acaso» 😉 Mientras dure el Viaje, there is always hope, and the possibility, back!
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ricardo Coarasa
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Thanks Carlos and First Travel. In my case, there's a fatalism prior, although sporadic and you also say that sterile, already on the journey to wisdom advises that you refer. Measuring risks is always necessary to avoid surprises that are coming on their own without need to call them recklessly. Greetings
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