A cross the Himalayas with a rookie driver

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As we left Lhasa, Bumble each of the buttons on the dashboard to make sure what they are. Circulates 50 km / h, are continuing their sharp braking and cornering takes every invading the wrong lane, whether or not visibility. The driver of the SUV that should lead us to Kathmandu, 1.100 km across the Himalayas. I will travel through one of the most dangerous roads of the earth with a conductor trainee. I'm excited.

Lhasa is completely dark in the early morning we left the capital of Tibet. Pours on the empty streets as if the sky had to settle outstanding bills. There is an SUV in the driveway edging and a man running down the street drenched pooled. I left in the lobby of Hotel Yak the two bottles of oxygen for our journey to the heights and neglect forces me to improvise the 200 meter dash in the rain.

The Toyota is old, probably the third or fourth hand. The odometer mark a disturbing 365.900 km. Inevitable stop watching the driver a few seconds. Frisa the 50 and wearing a charcoal gray suit, vest and all, which ends with a Chinese synthetic leather shoes. Beside, with our waterproof pants, parkas and hiking boots thinsulate, resemble one polar explorers. He immediately christened as Macario, the unforgettable ventriloquist doll José Luis Moreno.

We have been warned that landslides are common during the route along this “Friendship Highway” and that, to find still in the monsoon season, spillovers may force us to walk across, forest through, the border in Kodari

Macario has at least found the wiper button, now waged a battle with the shower water to clear the front glass. The Potala, shrouded in fog, rain fade, increases even more ghostly appearance. Our intrepid driver takes the corners holding the wheel with both hands through his bottom. A cold sweat runs down your spine as I began to climb the first ports. Just thinking about that over the next eight days we will be in their hands makes me want to walk to Kathmandu. We have warned that while this route “Friendship Highway” (Road of China-Nepal friendship) landslides are common and, to find still in the monsoon season, spillovers may force us to walk across, forest through, the border in Kodari. With such omens, me feel sure that at least they tied a Tibetan kata the mirror, I hope to be as effective as our Santa Rita.

Sakyamuni Buddha who protect us

Our first step in the Tibetan province Tsang must lead, By Macario, to Gyantse, a 261 kilometers from Lhasa, a journey that you can entertain more than five hours. Just half an hour of leaving the city, make a technical stop (rather suspect that our driver wants to be entrusted with peace to all potential Buddhas). Before us, on the bare stone, there is a large mural Sakyamuni Buddha, the "well lit". And that, After the, is what we need now: someone enlighten us.

Tenzing do an aside that confirms my worst fears. Macario has never driven a 4x4 and is the first time doing this route to Nepal. The worst outbursts erupt from my mouth like a torrent uncontrolled. I want to talk to your boss when we get to Gyantse, I want to send us a new car and an experienced driver, I want my money back, I, I, I… It is a sterile vent. I know perfectly well that nobody will send a brand new Toyota Landcruiser to Gyantse nor a substitute for Macario. Travelling in the forgotten corners of the planet has these things. No choice but to go ahead and cross your fingers.
We crossed the Tsangpo (that changes its name and becomes the Brahmaputra in neighboring India) hour and fifteen minutes after leaving Lhasa and bordered the great river road Kamba-la ("La" is a port in Tibetan) sparse herds of sheep and stone markers indicating the distance to Beijing. Every kilometer between the bends going up to infinity is a heartbreak. I do not take eye on Macario, money as if we should.

I know perfectly well that nobody will send a brand new Toyota Landcruiser to Gyantse nor a substitute for Macario. Travelling in the forgotten corners of the planet has these things. No choice but to go ahead and cross your fingers

The fog engulfs us at times as we ran with the first detachment. Gangs of young men with dark complexions, fork in hand, away the stones with a broom. China food bags vacuum packed begin to swell as the nebula reached between the 4.794 meters of the Kamba-la. On the other side is the Yamdrok, Turquoise Lake, one of the most beautiful postcards of Tibet. Yes, against all odds, Macario has been able to bring us here safely. The Hot quieted the initial, we have assimilated that little can be done except to trust him and hope he learns fast. Imbued with that forced positivism, I recognize a virtue: aware of its many limitations, at least it is prudent and circulates slowly. At the end of the day, not a bad start.

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