Antigua: the Pompeii of Guatemala
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Central, thin waist of the New World, burden on their backs with a recent history of guerrilla warfare and massacres silenced by the jungle and this rocked by gang violence, street gangs assaulted day after day the headlines. But living with that stubborn reality, and overcoming it, a handful of countries girded by two oceans offer visitors plenty of reasons to visit. Guatemala is one of them. From this time VaP. propose a stroll through the old colonial Spain, through the cobbled streets of a city-based Cast eruptions and earthquakes, where houses and monuments gala carried traces of dozens of violent earthquakes. Si un volcán, Vesuvius, was enough to devastate the splendor of Pompeii, three have not been enough to erase from history this insides example of resistance rocked by powerful tectonic plates. That city exists and is called Old.
The founding of the first capital of Guatemala is linked to a Spanish, Pedro de Alvarado, lieutenant of Hernán Cortés, that was sent in 1524 by the conqueror of Mexico to subject these lands. The original military camp, known today as Old Town, standing lasted only fourteen years, the time it took Water Volcano (by the Fire and Acatenango the three zealous guardians of Antigua) in completely raze. It was not until 1543 when it was founded was christened Santiago de los Caballeros, at the same location previously occupied by the main town of the Indians cachiqueles, to rush up the mountain Huir.
Anyone visiting the Central Park of Antigua and rotate the view around you will realize that the city is drawn string. It is, in fact, a perfect grid whose tentacles arise from the beautiful Plaza de Armas, the image and likeness of urbanism Castilian of the time. That neat layout of its streets contrasts, nothing bad to walk echar, with houses demolished by an earthquake, with churches domes bare, with boarded doors waiting for better times… Antigua is, in this sense, delightfully imperfect.
The tombs of Bernal Diaz and Alvarado
The traveler does not have to take stock of tourist guides to visit the city. As you step into the gardens of Central Park will be the coveted goal of the guides that run hour after hour the major sights in search of aliens who illustrate the troubled history of Antigua. It's best to let go, although it is worth negotiate the price before anything to avoid last minute surprises (rates may be around 100 quetzals, about ten euros). The touches me luck conquistador looks surname, Oscar Humberto Ovando, nearly half a century in these matters and all earthquakes that have shaken Antigua marked in the furrows of his swarthy face.
We are in the baroque of the ancient Cathedral of St. Joseph the Elder (at the intersection of 5th Avenue south west 8th street), surprisingly low. Everything has an explanation. Chastened by the devastating earth shake (the sixteenth century original temple was demolished twelve years before), the architect designed in 1680 of smaller proportions to resist earthquakes that were to come. The best tribute to this skill is that the facade remained standing after the earthquake of Santa Marta, that 1773 swept across the city, forcing officials to move the capital to the Ermita Valley, in the present Guatemala City.
The traveler soon repaired in a stone tablet placed in the nave. Registration realizes that in this place "gave famous people buried conquest and founding of Guatemala"
But the rest of the temple, that is crossed with a heavy heart, is horro domes and apses. Columns, stout and imposing, are due on the ground or open die; Most walls are chipped and, although some of the laborious decorations are intact Archivolts, restoration work underway-that have managed to recover two of the original chapels- still have much work ahead. It is highly recommended to visit the catacombs, still indigenous rites place where saints and religious syncretism of ancient deities shown in fascinating hodgepodge.
The traveler soon repaired in a stone tablet placed in the nave. Registration realizes that in this place "gave famous people buried conquest and founding of Guatemala", among which include, besides Alvarado and his wife, Beatrix of the Caves, the historian Bernal Diaz del Castillo. Latter, one 400 men who accompanied Cortés in the conquest of Mexico, was the chief chronicler of the extraordinary adventure, made in his famous "History of the Conquest of New Spain". Natural Medina del Campo, where born the same year that Christopher Columbus discovered America, Bernal Diaz, became after taking the Aztec empire ruler (mayor) Antigua (then Santiago de los Caballeros), where he died in 1580 with almost ninety years. After marrying Teresa Becerra, daughter of another conqueror, Here he wrote his famous work and enjoyed a peaceful life landowner. Was, certainly, su retreat dorado, the withdrawal of a warrior-writer.
The last stand of Alvarado, nicknamed "Tonatiuh", Aztec sun god, by her blond hair, is shrouded in mystery. The most bloodthirsty of the lieutenants of Cortés (responsible for the killing of the great temple that almost ruined the conquest of Mexico) longed action and, even after taking of Tenochtitlan was appointed governor of Guatemala, sailed to Peru in charge of a fleet of 500 men to increase his legend. Among the crew was a large group of Indians originating in Antigua cachiqueles, whose descendants still live on Peruvian soil. In Riobamba, Diego de Almagro waylaid him and filled him Pizarro Campaign. Alvarado, summoning a faultless sense and business acumen, Accept sell Almagro artillery for all su 100.000 weights and he'd come get.
But it would take an effort battler then attempt to quell the revolt of the Chichimeca in the Mexican state of Jalisco, where a runaway horse ended his life partner. Buried first in a church in Michoacan (Mexico), her daughter's body moved after, next to his second wife, Beatriz de la Cueva, Antigua. Alvarado had married his first wife, Francisca de la Cueva, niece of the influential Duke of Alburquerque, but she died just landed in Veracruz and, thanks to a papal dispensation, could marry his sister Beatrice. Not without reason, it has gone down in history as the "Sinventura". Their marriage only lasted a year and, after taking over the government of Guatemala in 1541 Alvarado's death, office was short-lived as a fierce earthquake buried it in his palace under tons of mud and rocks while invoking the Almighty in the chapel. Water volcano had spoken again.
Antigua is one of those cities that are left behind with the hope of returning, with the desire to wander back their swashbuckling paved
Back to Central Park, should deviate a couple of blocks to admire the singular Arco de Santa Catalina, built in the late sixteenth century to facilitate passage of the Abbesses of cloistered convent built opposite the school. Few pictures of colonial essence as pronounced as it can be found throughout Latin America. Behind us, the Plaza de Armas is the best place to say goodbye to Antigua.
In the elderly arcade of Palace of the Captains, the former residence of the Governor, locals and tourists take refuge from the afternoon tormentone. The strong voice of a preacher resonates through the small radio to a cumbia Shine. "I have a little mother / I have a little mother / that when I'm alone / it keeps me company / she is Mary / she is Mary". Persistent hawkers unsuspecting tourists intersect, gangs of lads idle, armed police and the usual begging alms disinherited. Two guards at the door of a bank will observe all, trimmed in hand, without batting an eye.
To escape the hustle, you have to sneak up the stairs to the top rail, where the bustle of Central Park and is perceived with a certain nostalgia for what is about to abandon. The faithful of the Cathedral of Santiago, candle in hand, wait out the downpour to celebrate the Corpus Christi procession in style. The steps of the temple are covered with flowers and wet grass that spreads throughout the square intense tropical scent. So much for the chanting of the devotees, cheerful and boisterous sound far removed from the languid Sunday songs you hear in most Spanish churches.
The traveler, truth, will not go in Antigua, and to delay the time sipping delicious coffee in the very popular Café Condesa, on the square, lost in the conversations of a group of Puerto Ricans who jump from Spanish to English without any abruptness. At the back of a bookstore interesting, your yard lush tropical plants and stone fountain topped by a simple carving of the Virgin is a haven of tranquility. Antigua is one of those cities that are left behind with the hope of returning, with the desire to wander back their swashbuckling paved. The traveler did earlier than expected and these lines will reaffirm his passion for this colonial city.
[tab:the way]
From Guatemala City (where you can fly nonstop from Spain with several airlines) must take the CA-1 highway and, at the intersection of San Lucas Sacatepequez, diverted towards Antigua, situada a 45 kilometers from the capital (an hour's drive). If the traveler prefers to travel by taxi rate should negotiate before, that can range from 120 and 150 quetzals (from sweet to 15 EUR), better in the door of hotels. The former taxi rank is in Central Park, next to the cathedral.
[tab:a nap]
In Antigua, if we have budget problems, the Hotel Santo Domingo (a former convent renovated) is a luxury (minimum 100 per night), like the Porta Hotel Antigua (8ª Calle Poniente, 1). For more holes pockets, a good choice is the Posada Don Valentino, just two blocks from Central Park (from 40 euros per night).
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We recommend starting the day Doña Luisa Xicotencatl with the characteristic breakfast chapín. Do not forget to try that delicious banana bread. To eat, the Posada de Don Rodrigo is almost a must. Traditional cuisine adapted to Western taste.
But if they move towards less bombastic options, visit any of the modest restaurants around the Plaza de Armas. For example, the Don José. Dine corn tamales or enchiladas and a beer for just five euros Gallo. And much quieter. To fire the day, nothing better than a coffee and a cheese cake Cafe Condesa.
[tab:highly recommended]
The Convent of Mercy, or what's left of it, is a predilection VaP.. Enjoy from the top floor of the cloister, still displays is undoubtedly the most acclaimed source of Antigua, the majestic views of Volcan de Agua is a delight. The decadent and romantic atmosphere envelops everything and moisture weighs as much as your story. Also worth visiting the Craft Market St. Lucia's driveway, at the end of 4th Street West. Ideal for nurturing memories suitcase (masks are especially recommended).
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Comments (2)
Paul
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How beautiful is this destination! From the best of this beautiful country. Greetings!
Paul – Hotel in Guatemala
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Hotel Antigua Guatemala
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La Antigua Guatemala, is an impressive city, where we can relive the past, in the colonial. It certainly is a great city full of traditions and cultural treasures.
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