From Ethiopia to Uganda: trip to the Nile Sources (In)
Few places throughout history have so strongly attracted the imagination of geographers, emperors and explorers like Nile Sources. The secret of the birth of the great African river head brought mankind for 2.000 years. Cyrus, Alexander the Great and Julio Cesar were not able to unravel the mystery. Ptolemy placed them in the Mountains of the Moon, in the African Great Lakes (currently the Ruwenzori mountain range) . It was terribly misguided. But the glory was reserved for John Hanning Speke, who in July 1862 discovered the sources of the White Nile on Lake Victoria, a Uganda.
The other major stream feeding the river, called Blue Nile, born in the Ethiopian Lago Tana. If we water fiáramos contributing either branch, they should be considered the true sources, as more than 80 percent of the Nile's flow comes from the ancient highlands of Abyssinia. A Spanish, the Jesuit Pedro Páez, Madrid-born people Sources Olmeda, had the honor of being the first European to reach their sources in 1618, nearly two centuries and a half before Speke solve the Mystery of the Nile. The story was ungrateful to him and a smug Scottish, James Bruce, is autocoronó as the discoverer of the sources of the Blue Nile. But Paez daily leave no doubt. He came before.
A smug Scottish, James Bruce, is autocoronó as the discoverer of the sources of the Blue Nile. But Pedro Páez Spanish daily leave no doubt. He came before
For anyone who has delved into the annals of the golden age of African exploration, inevitably there are some places marked in red on the map of dreams to fulfill. You want to tread Chitambo, where is buried the heart of Livingsonte; arrive at Zanzibar, starting point of the great explorations; achieve Ujiji, where occurred the famous encounter between Stanley and Livingstone and, course, someday soaked Nile Sources. A few years ago, two separate trips to Ethiopia and Uganda finally led me to them, so different and so magical at the same time. Two, each in its own way, left me with a lasting memory.
Although officially the Lake Tana the birthplace of the Blue Nile, Ethiopians the real birth place a little further south, en Gish Abay
Although officially the Lake Tana the birthplace of the Blue Nile, Ethiopians the real birth place a little further south, in Gish Abay, where is the source of what they call "the small Nile", the same water that bursts with the Tana and, maintaining its flow, turns east and leaves the lake road Khartoum, in Sudan, where it joins with his brother from Uganda, and, beyond, the Egypt. Therefore had to address there if I wanted to see how the great river flowed sacred.
From the capital, Addis Ababa, can be reached on road to Gish Abay, although it may be more advisable to night Debre Markos. Before coming to Bahar Dar, the shores of Lake Tana, have to take a detour to the right in the town of Tilili, only 40 kilometers sources. Be, our driver, confesses that has never been here before. Surprisingly, the birth of the Blue Nile is not yet a tourist.
"Near the fountain, on the upstream side, people live ", wrote the Jesuit. And still living. Nothing more aware of our arrival, flock to welcome us
It was midday when we reached our goal. A sign points the way, 300 meters through "a small valley that becomes a big field", as defined by Peter himself Paez. "Near the fountain, on the upstream side, people live ", wrote the Jesuit. And still living. Nothing more aware of our arrival, flock to welcome us. Well, and also to charge the price of admission, we should negotiate an armistice as if it were. We are the only tourists so no hurry. The deal finally closes 50 Birr (less than four euros).
We walked downhill, to a small circular chapel where the faithful, wrapped in their gabis and drums in hand, come to take the water to which attributed, as one would expect, curative. Our spit water footprints, water that feeds the great African river. I feel ebullient. The Blue Nile sources are enclosed by a fence. And "tebel", sacred place. As I explained a monk, have channeled the spring to a booth, where jets emerge that leverage the faithful to soak naked in search of healing their ills of the flesh and spirit. From there, the small Nile flows through a narrow flow, just over an inch to, little by little, widens the idyllic valley.
The house where the faithful are soaked in the waters of the Nile can not be more precarious. Descuerarse saved queue and follow the tradition. I feel driven to do likewise fleeting
Surprisingly, the monk lets us in on the sacred, where according to the Bible unblinking born Gehon River. At this point we are already behind us a trail of dozens of rowdy children by the presence of the white man.
The ground is muddy and the house where the faithful are soaked in the waters of the Nile can not be more precarious. Descuerarse queued patiently saved and follow the tradition. I feel driven to do likewise fleeting but the look of Bethlehem, my wife, al disuade me instant. I'll settle refresh my face under the complacent gaze of the monk and his acolytes.
It seems a miracle that this stream is able to survive for 6.000 km; that for thousands of years, these waters have watered fertility of a great empire, the Egyptian; the flash of a powerful flow occurs, precisely, in a country that every so often die of thirst.
A log bridge seems to bring us back to times Paez. The place has not changed much since then and therein lies much of its magic
On the other side of the fence, the river flows peacefully by a channel that seems split on the meadow with a knife cut butter. A wooden bridge, just some logs crossed from side to side, seems to want to devolvernos tiempos de Páez. The place has not changed much since then and therein lies much of its magic. Children will offer swatter made with horsehair. All have left their homes to watch the foreign. Feeling strange is an aspiration of any traveler. We ran away from the routine and when we feel intruders have the certainty that boredom is very, far. Then there is no choice but to smile.
Feeling strange is an aspiration of any traveler. We ran away from the routine and when we feel intruders have the certainty that boredom is very, far
"And I confess that I was glad to see that both the king wished to see once Cyrus and his son Cambyses, Alexander the Great and the famous Julius Caesar ", Paez wrote modestly after becoming the first European to reach the Blue Nile Sources. Almost 400 years after, I was treading those same places described by the Jesuit missionary. And was happy.
Comments (7)
Juan Antonio
| #
Very good the story, Ricardo. Thanks. The truth is that I am looking forward to visiting Africa with your stories meantime I're moving places and places of my memory retinas, that crop up when you visit certain.
Answer
ricardo Coarasa
| #
This has happened to us all, Juan Antonio. First we dreamed visit through books and reports and then we could fulfill that desire. Surely in Africa have deja indifferent. Thank you for your encouragement
Answer
Hook
| #
I do not need to travel to the source of the Blue Nile. After reading this article, I feel like I've been there! Brave.
Answer
ricardo
| #
For a pleasure to have been able to move you Kawil. Thank you very much for following
Answer
Marten
| #
Me Ryszard Kapuscinski a bruise como , Polish writer and journalist that said he would like to convey what és Africa , sometimes it's a sad personality, sometimes impenetrable, but always unique.
The first time I lived, I felt like a sunrise ocher where feelings drown the words, the memories, the frustrations and eat that part so intimate that only alone are capable of defiling.
Nice article really from the bottom, it shows.
Answer
ricardo Coarasa
| #
Thanks, Marten. Your reflection has brought me great memories. Africa, course, Empuje you to write, with its strengths and weaknesses, no need to sugarcoat reality to our dreams ahormarla. Hopefully back soon to experience those feelings on African soil. Bs
Answer
Carlos L
| #
Ricardo,
Very good article and interesting reflections.
I suppose you know the fabulous book by Javier Reverte «God, the devil and the adventure »that narrates the biography of Pedro Paez.
Greetings
Answer