The oldest doll hospital in Europe
It's the closest I've been a dream factory. Brokedown Palace, convalescent, in the ICU some, but dreams at the end of the day. Here are responsible for recovering their magic, to burnish, of return haloed with the same enthusiasm for the first time. A unique place it, only. It is the oldest doll hospital in Europe, almost two centuries behind, but for most tourists are walking around Lisbon probably go unnoticed.
It is easy to walk past and not notice that modest canopy. At a glance, can be one of the shops that dot the central Praça da Figueira, in the heart of Baixa Lisbon, one step away from the popular Plaza de Restorers. But it's not a shop any. This is, simply, unlike any other. It sells sweets, or tile, memories or al uso. Its tenants are dolls, hundreds of them, thousands of dolls that have come here from anywhere in the world to return the smile to their owners: girls with the broken joy, mothers who want to recover those who were the accomplices of his childhood best, families in permanent debt to those dolls abandoned to languish in the dark cellar, as if someone had suddenly forgotten the moments of happiness that provided.
We entered the "Hospital Bonecas" with some reservation, somewhat confused. On the ground floor are not anywhere dolls (we have not even noticed the storefront). Did we get it wrong? We crossed the little hall hesitant and up to the first floor of the wooden stairs, creaking as expected of a building with much history. The door is closed, so we turn our steps and asked one of the women behind the counter fiddles. She is Manuela Cutileiro, "nurse" this unusual oldest hospital. Effectively, the guts of the doll hospital can be visited on payment of two euros per person. She makes us guide.
We crossed the little hall hesitant and up to the first floor of the wooden stairs, creaking as expected of a building with much history
The Portuguese Manuela is rhythmic and transparent, cases musicals. It is easily understand. As you enter, in the corridor, a doll tucked in a basket painted with the Red Cross called my attention. It is an image filled with symbolism, since in the same bassinet climbed the "patients" from the ground floor to the third floor when the hospital still had not moved two floors down, where now.
It is the only place where dolls are arranged (existen «hospitales» similares en Londres, New York and even Madrid), but the only one where repair whatever their age and value (here is returned composure expensive porcelain dolls, but also barbies or bellies traded only in the heart of their own).
Guided by Manuela we entering in the various rooms, distributed as if it were an outpatient. First the "operating room", where on a wooden table a "surgeon" meticulous attempts to restore life to a doll legs amputated. Behind her is a cabinet with many drawers where you store transparent "parts": heads, arms, Wigs, eyes, legs… Everything you need to restore lost health, repair their injuries, transplantarles tips. Dolls and Dolls. Rag, porcelain, Cardboard. You feel every step watched by hundreds of eyes from shelves, antique carriages, dressers, cabinets. But it is distressing presence. The wait is worth: after a "lifting" full-fledged return to illuminate the hearts of those who have not forgotten.
Others have had worse luck. No one has claimed and huddle in a dark room waiting for nothing. But Manuela neither willing nor able to discard them. "I need two more floors to save them all", confesses. The spirit of the pioneer, Dona Carlota, that made rag dolls in their free times in his herb shop and tea market, continues to permeate every corner of this worthy business.
Pulling discretion, our hostess was going around the bush when asked for the price of a repair. It depends, clear, the material used and the diagnosis. What does make clear is that "doll has any arrangement", impossible as it seems. That's why we get orders from around the world. So this central Lisbon floor has a special flavor, Hospice of illusions as shredded. Manuela and the rest of 'nurses' distil love for his work, a passion that is looming on the pampering that lavish their "patients", in compliance with these toys that speak of broken. They have a privileged ability to surprise. So it is a place not to miss.
Comments (3)
Mere
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I used to go through Praça da Figueira right there without knowing that cardboard dreams went recomposing, porcelain and cloth. Thanks, Ricardo, by a simple and magical. If you have a chance visit the Puppet Museum Rua da da Esperança, not be as familiar but also bears a charm.
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ricardo
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Thanks Mere. Certainly take your advice next time you visit Lisbon. Surely worth the museum of puppets
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Joao
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A very special place in Lisbon. Sensational story. Congratulations
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