Nov 16 2013 In the cradle of Patagonia

• Tumba of teniente Sholl

  https://www.viajesalpasado.com/wp-content/uploads/Tumba-del-teniente-Sholl.jpg

  I looked at that plateau. I could not believe that there had been born in Patagonia. Sure ... I owe an explanation to the reader. Patagonia was born there but the myth of Patagonia as a wild and mysterious. I was in Puerto San Julian in the search, as always, of stories, anecdotes and wild. There, against the infinite blue of the Atlantic, are given both: history and nature.

• The author and his son in front of the replica of the Nao Victoria

  https://www.viajesalpasado.com/wp-content/uploads/El-autor-y-su-hijo-frente-a-la-replica-de-la-nao-Victoria.jpg

  I looked at that plateau. I could not believe that there had been born in Patagonia. Sure ... I owe an explanation to the reader. Patagonia was born there but the myth of Patagonia as a wild and mysterious. I was in Puerto San Julian in the search, as always, of stories, anecdotes and wild. There, against the infinite blue of the Atlantic, are given both: history and nature.

• Nao Victoria crew

  https://www.viajesalpasado.com/wp-content/uploads/Tripulacion-de-Nao-Victoria1.jpg

  I looked at that plateau. I could not believe that there had been born in Patagonia. Sure ... I owe an explanation to the reader. Patagonia was born there but the myth of Patagonia as a wild and mysterious. I was in Puerto San Julian in the search, as always, of stories, anecdotes and wild. There, against the infinite blue of the Atlantic, are given both: history and nature.

• Tonina overa

  https://www.viajesalpasado.com/wp-content/uploads/Tonina-overa.jpg

  I looked at that plateau. I could not believe that there had been born in Patagonia. Sure ... I owe an explanation to the reader. Patagonia was born there but the myth of Patagonia as a wild and mysterious. I was in Puerto San Julian in the search, as always, of stories, anecdotes and wild. There, against the infinite blue of the Atlantic, are given both: history and nature.

• Beach snails

  https://www.viajesalpasado.com/wp-content/uploads/Playa-de-caracoles.jpg

  I looked at that plateau. I could not believe that there had been born in Patagonia. Sure ... I owe an explanation to the reader. Patagonia was born there but the myth of Patagonia as a wild and mysterious. I was in Puerto San Julian in the search, as always, of stories, anecdotes and wild. There, against the infinite blue of the Atlantic, are given both: history and nature.

• Penguins San Julian

  https://www.viajesalpasado.com/wp-content/uploads/Pinguinos-en-San-Julian.jpg

  I looked at that plateau. I could not believe that there had been born in Patagonia. Sure ... I owe an explanation to the reader. Patagonia was born there but the myth of Patagonia as a wild and mysterious. I was in Puerto San Julian in the search, as always, of stories, anecdotes and wild. There, against the infinite blue of the Atlantic, are given both: history and nature.

• Sunset at San Julian, Christ left Monte

  https://www.viajesalpasado.com/wp-content/uploads/Atardecer-en-San-Julian-a-la-izquierda-Monte-Cristo.jpg

  I looked at that plateau. I could not believe that there had been born in Patagonia. Sure ... I owe an explanation to the reader. Patagonia was born there but the myth of Patagonia as a wild and mysterious. I was in Puerto San Julian in the search, as always, of stories, anecdotes and wild. There, against the infinite blue of the Atlantic, are given both: history and nature.

• San Julian Coast

  https://www.viajesalpasado.com/wp-content/uploads/Costa-de-San-Julian.jpg

  I looked at that plateau. I could not believe that there had been born in Patagonia. Sure ... I owe an explanation to the reader. Patagonia was born there but the myth of Patagonia as a wild and mysterious. I was in Puerto San Julian in the search, as always, of stories, anecdotes and wild. There, against the infinite blue of the Atlantic, are given both: history and nature.

I looked at that plateau. I could not believe that there had been born in Patagonia. Sure ... I owe an explanation to the reader. Patagonia was born there but the myth of Patagonia as a wild and mysterious. I was in Puerto San Julián to search, as always, of stories, anecdotes and wild. There, against the infinite blue of the Atlantic, are given both: history and nature.

As we arrived at dusk the following day we left for the tour of the city and surroundings. What not to leave the other day was to prove a good roast Patagonian lamb. So we chose a bowling (as we say in Argentina commonly, since the time of the gauchos, to restaurants or bars) very place. Without any luxury, instead all, but very simple, but with a roast native superlative. While "attacked" the succulent portions went over to my wife what I had to see: Magellan, dolphins, Drake, Penguins, Darwin and cormorants. Excellent!

The first thing we did the next morning was to visit the replica of the Nao Victoria of Magellan. Built in full size, the ship is very well set and allows the traveler, with some help from his imagination, can relive what happened on those beaches.

And 1520 Portuguese Ferdinand Magellan captained a Spanish fleet that sought to cross oceans. Navigating very south of the continent began to show the crew began agitated because the cold, the winds and seas were getting stronger and increasingly barren land inhospitable. In a natural harbor protected the sailor decided to land and spend the winter. All this the 31 March 1520, San Julian Day. The next morning in St. Julian's first Mass was celebrated in Argentine territory. But Magellan had other more pressing problems facing. Much of his people had mutinied.

Navigating very south of the continent began to show the crew began agitated because the cold, the winds and seas were getting stronger and increasingly barren land inhospitable

The guide took us around the boat. It was amazing it was so small a ship that was going around the world. But what caught my attention was the cabin of Magellan. It was so small. He, therein, all instruments necessary to know its position and course. In wild seas and unknown, be the only one who could bring everyone back to Europe was the best insurance to survive a hostile crew. The door of the cabin opened only from the inside, so no one could enter at night to stab.
Magellan riot ended with the cunning and cruelty. Tricked the rebels and killed leaders, to each knife, others to the gallows.
Answer their authority, spent several months there. In San Julian was where Europeans first met with a much higher indigenous and robust that they. They called Patagones and by extension called "Patagonia" the entire region. These aborigines, of which there are few, called Aonikenk, but its northern neighbors called them tehuelches or "big people". Your feet tall gave almost eight inches high on the Europeans of that time.
Emerging from the replica I asked the guide if Magellan fear of being killed by the crew had grip. He answered that several times, during his long journey, tried to kill him.

With this in mind we continue our tour of the place. We embark on a boat that would take us through the interior of the bay. The purpose of the walk, addition to spot penguins and cormorants, was an encounter with bottlenose dolphins, dolphins that are attractive black and white. As we moved to idle oteando waters in search of these friendly marine mammals asked to guide the boat, a colorful character named Pinocchio, show me the island where Drake found the remains of the gallows of justice of Magellan. "Hereafter", I pointed. I commented that it seemed ironic that Magellan had so much care to his crew and eventually going to die in the hands of indigenous Filipinos. "Will?”, he answered, unbeliever and enigmatic. My mind immediately clicked novelist and I began to imagine much more plausible facts, but ... "Toninas!"The dolphins were swimming and jumping on our side. I left the historical musings to enjoy the Patagonian nature.

I commented that it seemed ironic that Magellan had so much care to his crew and eventually going to die in the hands of indigenous Filipinos

After that perfect boat ride landed, but the idea of ​​the true destination of Magellan followed me around for the head. Our next destination was a beach north of town. There was another officer buried a historic ship: the Beagle the Darwin and Fitz Roy.
I had the GPS coordinates of the grave of Lieutenant Sholl, but it took me. The grave was marked or protected by a fence and stood on the shingle beach oceanfront Blue. A pair of plates reminisced over these famous travelers and burial of the unfortunate crew, who died of a mysterious fever. From there you could see the silhouette of the Monte Cristo, baptized by Magellan hill atop which left a cross. Three hundred years later Captain Fitz Roy gave there with the timbers of the cross. His companion, the famous naturalist, oysters enigmatic fossils found.
As we passed a relaxing afternoon on the beach of Lieutenant Sholl my mind went back to Magellan. I remembered that the voyage of navigator, from islands Philippines, would lead to territory by treaty belonged to the Portuguese crown. If they were discovered by the Lusitanian, the Spanish did not come home ever. I imagine that a crew could not trust a Portuguese captain, could deliver ... I figured, in a moment of carelessness, Spanish knife would have stuck in his chest from Portuguese. Back to Spain saying they had killed the captain of the expedition was certain death. Nothing like death to foist Aboriginal Filipinos, that would be the official story. So, in my imagination, Juan Sebastián Elcano continued the journey that would make history and we left San Julian to continue our journey through Patagonia Magellanic.

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Gerardo Bartolomé traveler and writer is. To learn more about him and his work go to www.GerardoBartolome.com