Qandil Camp: walk free by Masai Mara

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We stopped the car on a hill. we go down. From there the immensity of the African savannah was contemplated. Multitudes of acacias dot a green blanket. The mountains that shade the Mara River loom in the background, folding the horizon into a line. It's a little hot and a little windy. nothing is heard.

That fascinating way of fixing things in Africa where imagination always outweighs shortcomings

In the middle of the distance that my eyes capture from that infinite plain, some tents stand out.. Few, almost imperceptible among that nature. "It's our camp", Aldo explains to us, owner and one of the managers Qandil Camp. At that moment we see Martin, our driver, that with some stones begins to change the wheel of our 4×4. "I have punctured", explains. We, while, we observe that fascinating way of fixing things in Africa where imagination always outweighs shortcomings.

At that moment I turn my head again and see that the camp is more or less a kilometer away.. "Why don't we walk?”, I tell Aldo and Ricardo. "Let's go", our host answers us naturally. We then began to descend, with slow step, chatting, as we leave to the left and right herds of wildebeest and zebra, we see the walk of a giraffe that stops to contemplate us in the distance or we avoid the lair of a hyena. Search. They and we. At times it was hard to accept the tranquility of that walk through the famous Masai Mara. Without fanfare or theaters to invent emotions for tourists. We were walking through a field where lions might appear. there are them there. we don't talk about it, we only advanced with calm and surprise. We walked freely through the savannah. Without a doubt I never had a more beautiful arrival in any accommodation in Africa.

Without a doubt I never had a more beautiful arrival in any accommodation in Africa

Ana was waiting for us at the Kandili, Lucas and the group of Maasai workers who accompanies them on this adventure. You soon understand that they have created a small family of support and affection.. Ana and Aldo are a couple who have risked the future to live a present full of. Lucas is his four year old son. play in the jungle, in his garden, also naturally, no fanfare. the boy is great. That spectacular camp is located in what is known as the Leopard Throat, a private conservation area in the northern Masai Mara where the BBC recorded some of the best scenes from his famous documentary series “Big Cat”. They have get it, after meeting with the seven Maasai families that own the land, have exclusively that fascinating piece of the park. It's your house, now ours also for three days.

In the afternoon we decided to go for a walk again.. Let's go this time with Ana too, Lucas y William, a unique Maasai who remembers the winter in which a family invited him to spend time in Andorra. “It was very beautiful and I know that I have seen little of the world, but I am sure that there is nothing more beautiful than my land”, he assures while he recalls his walk dressed as a fierce African warrior through the icy and luxurious European mountains.

We passed herds of ungulates, Giraffes, some elephants and the trail of some hyenas

Once again we passed herds of ungulates, Giraffes, some elephants and the trail of some hyenas. We walk with absolute freedom through a unique place. We then headed to the Leopard Throat. The site is beautiful. In recent weeks, a leopard has been seen again approaching the shelter where it was born. We look for his meeting but it does not take place (just two days later he returned to his tree, his house, hand lamp). We walk through an open area, private, in which life is foreign and close to you. It's a strange feeling. We are serenely happy in the midst of so much turmoil. everything is special, different.

Suddenly Aldo disappears, he leaves with Lucas. The rest of us continue walking while sunset begins. the sky turns purple. The sun sinks in the background. one last surprise. Behind some rocks father and son have prepared a table and some chairs. there are wines, beers… We do not sit and contemplate the fleeing of the day. Absolute night falls on the savannah. brutal moment.

Then I hear clear and close the howl of a hyena

We return to the camp. So I decide to use the outdoor shower in my shop. A few small and dim candles illuminate a wooden fence. On my head a griffon and on the griffon the million stars. The water falls on my body while I look up to not miss the sky. Then I hear clear and close the howl of a hyena. He seems to be behind the wooden fence that protects me. I listen laughter disturbing the mammal. I stop one second, I smile. I am passionate about the African wild. There, in Kandili it is, real, open, sincere. I close the tap and now I hear sounds in plural, are several. That night the last thing I heard before falling asleep is the mooing of dozens of wildebeests at my door..

This was the three days we spent at the Kanidli with Ana, Aldo and Lucas. It had never happened to me to be in a park doing a safari and want to return to the accommodation. only there. The experience of the camp surpassed that of the beautiful driving routes through the Masai Mara. I remember today with a certain nostalgia the night in which, in the middle of dinner, startled by some noises, we lit up and saw the terrified trot of a herd of wildebeest that was watching us.; the dawns in which some zebras grazed at my door; the afternoon I returned to the restaurant and watched some elephants walk away, the last night we clearly heard the wild roar of a lion hunt, buffaloes and hyenas. The next morning a group of hungry vultures that flew over nearby marked the exact point where everything had happened.. Search, very close, just over a kilometer.

She definitely seems happy to be here, we had to leave and we couldn't get close to see him. We were leaving a real place, oblivious to the exaggerated ceremonies of some camps that only manage to make you feel distant. Meanwhile treats to justify its high price do not leave space for you, singular, to live that intimate moment in which you tremble just for a second of emotion, scary.

The last night we clearly heard the wild roar of a lion hunt, buffaloes and hyenas

I remember those nights at the Kandili now that I have advanced my book of 10 countries and almost 50 africa parks, where I did walking safaris in the Okavango Delta, Mana Pools, Hwange, Kruger, Kibale... and I have a feeling that was where I first walked truly free in wild Africa.. That is how I write it in my story and that is how it has remained in my memory.

This route through Kenya has been made with the collaboration of the company Kobo Safaris Our degree of satisfaction for your professionalism, knowledge and delivery invites us to recommend them. we wouldn't do it this way, as usual in VaP, if we didn't think about it.

 

 

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Comments (8)

  • Ricardo

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    Undoubtedly one of my favorite corners of Africa and, I agree with you Xavier, where I have breathed more freedom, that precious asset that you have to fight for every day. Congratulations.

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  • Ann

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    I want to go to this place. I think more

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  • Javier Brandoli

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    let's see anna, according to the account that we take you in VaP of your I want to go, you need thirteen years of vacation or six lives, about half a million euros and 30 pairs of flip flops, 30 of hiking boots and no heels, to fulfill your purposes. At VaP we encourage you to achieve it and tell us about it… Besos!!

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  • Aldo

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    Hi Javier – I loved your article, you are a master of environments and to capture those little moments of life that make it closer, human and intense at the same time. And I cannot stop being moved by the impact on our guests that this little piece of virgin land where we have planted our tents has.!

    Ann – don't listen to him, dreaming is free and we will make a hole for you here even if it is in 13 years 🙂

    Hugs

    Aldo

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  • Javier Brandoli

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    Thanks Aldo, you have built a different place, with a special roll that is not easy to find here. Many times one feels great safari, professional, but rarely do you have all the comfort and also feel at home. Hug!

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  • Ann

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    The most worrying thing will be the flip flops!

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  • Oscar

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    I couldn't agree more or say it better., a unique site in the park of parks, a luxury of comfort and simplicity, feeling small in the greatness of nature that surrounds you.

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