The cemetery of heroes painted by Goya

For: Ricardo Coarasa (text and photos)
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[tab:Travel]
They were ordinary people, but they behaved like heroes against the invader. In France and England, they have erected a pantheon of illustrious men. Here, have to settle for a modest cemetery Madrid, the Florida, whose existence few people know. His glory is immortalized in a painting by Francisco de Goya, that of the shootings, but close to this cemetery to honor should be almost a moral obligation.

Who has not ever seen the famous painting of Goya's Shootings of May Three 1808? That man with his shirt open his chest defiantly offering the pack, those fists, crying, hands to her face, Blood pooled in the land of Madrid. How many of us, confesémoslo, thought that this great painting was all that remained of the heroes of the resistance? Not so. The remains of 43 arcabuceados (29 of them identified with names) rest in the cemetery of La Florida Madrid, a mountain pass at the Príncipe Pío, where they were shot. For anyone to come to the capital of Spain and has a curious bit of history, VOD recommend this tour that leaves from the usual tourist circuits.

Altruistic Guides

I've been to the cemetery gates Maria Teresa Diaz, of Philanthropic Society National Veterans Militants, the institution responsible for managing this historic site. Is accompanied by Felipe Cortés, also a member of this group that collects nearly two centuries of history. They will guide my steps to the crypt, reeling off anecdotes and knowledge with passion and pride in who shows his guests the most precious jewel.
The thieves just take all the copper wiring, the manna of the dispossessed in this Madrid that lives too fast, no time to look at the gutters. The entrance gate, with a ceramic mosaic of the great Aragonese artist painting the other side, anticipates the visitor who is taking a step into history, backward.

The record suggests that this cemetery was opened in 1798 to bury the Royal House employees and their families. Its most famous tenant came ten years after, loaded on the backs of mules or carts. They were ordinary people-builders, beds, carpenters, locksmiths, customs, write, Gardeners, palafreneros-, but they had already entered the history of Spain. Nine days after being shot by French troops, Murat agreed to the take the bodies for burial. It was an almost furtive burial, without authority, without military honors, without fuss- one can imagine as you walk to the chapel among the trees pregnant with melancholy.

The shot that survived the fire

The liturgy of death also have their stories. Before the platoon had 44 People, but 43 are shot. One of the Damned, Juan Suarez, managed to untie the bands time and ran to first shock. Wounded, took refuge in the hermitage of Virgen del Puerto (Rumour where he was denied the assistance) and, finally, wool in San Antonio de la Florida. Be that as it, managed to save his skin.
The denial of the story. Goya, Contrary to what many assume, not witnessed the shootings from the Quinta del Sordo. First, because from the Paseo de Extremadura, where his residence, to the mountain of Principe Pio, There is a long way and not even a keen eye would have sufficed. And, especially, because the house was bought in 1817, nine years after the revolt of May 1808.

Before the platoon had 44 People, but 43 are shot. One of the Damned, Juan Suarez, managed to untie the bands time and ran to first shock.

Before entering the shrine have access to a patio Castilian, which immediately strikes the eye, to the left, a marble slab that marks the place where it was excavated the grave where the bodies are buried (error by an inexplicable, carved text 1927 notes that this occurred on the same 3 May, we know that it is impossible, because the bodies did not arrive here until the day 12). On this memorial is a canvas ceramic Palmaroli "The exhumations", a tear of the pain of the families of the executed.

The crew and the priest Trabucaire

Already in the chapel, opened in 1960, is the crypt where the remains of the most famous shot in the history of Spain (with permission from Garcia Lorca and Muñoz Seca). That year, was the mayor of Madrid Mayalde Count, his remains were exhumed and taken to the crypt. In a zinc box and put the remains in another, drapery, shoes and belongings. Now, a marble plaque recalls the names of the shot to. How do you know their names? Thanks to the burial books and records of the Villa, which gathered the pensions paid to widows (four reales a day) and descendants (who benefited from scholarships, training courses or work in the Royal House).

The visitor wonders, constrained in the shadows of the small room under the weight of history: but, Where from? Were selected randomly? Maria Teresa has the answer. The vast majority of prisons were decimated, except a gang of builders of the church of Santiago, bricks that faced the convoy when the French entered the tempo, so they were arrested. Among those who were to be shot was also the sexton of the Church of the Incarnation, Francisco Gallego, who had taken up arms to expel the invader. The history of Spain is full of priests trabucaires. They consulted what to do with the priest Murat. No doubt. "He who kills iron, dies by the sword ", was his laconic reply, built since then the popular tradition.

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The best way to get it close to Metro. We must take line 6 (circular) and get off at station Príncipe Pío. Walking along the Paseo del Rey, in five minutes we reached the cemetery Florida, next to the School of Ceramics.

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Principe Pio area is well stocked with hotels and hostels, but we can not recommend any.

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One step from the Hermitage of San Antonio de la Florida is Casa Mingo (www.casamingo.es), dean of Madrid's Cider (Paseo de la Florida, 34) and one of his most popular establishments (Founded in 1888). Roast chicken (10 euros each) and cider (5,30 bottle) is the star menu. If time allows, dine on the terrace is an added pleasure.

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-If you want to visit the cemetery should be aware that they can only do in May and June, weekends (the 10:00 a 13:00) or by appointment (always more 10 People) in asturte@telefonica.net. The guides are the members of the Philanthropic Society National Veterans Militants, managing the cemetery. The visit is free and does not even accept tips. And that the low fifty members of this group pays for the maintenance of the cemetery full of pocket (not receive grants, although recently the city of Madrid has paid some improvement work). Yes, show at least their gratitude to the guest book located in the chapel.
-All 3 May the cauldron is lit next to the picture mosaic of Goya and pays tribute to shot. In that month, visits multiply in the cemetery, open to the public 2008.
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