The trip
The skiing is the oldest in Spain, every winter, the destination of thousands of snow lovers to enjoy their favorite sport. Few of them know, however, to a few meters from one of its most illustrious track, the Tobazo, are the foundations of what was considered, since its founding in the eleventh century, as "one of the three pillars of the charity in the world". The remains of the old Hospital de Santa Cristina, port right in the Somport Huesca (Summus el Portus), near the French border, go unnoticed for most skiers. Located near the corner of entrance to the station and monitored by nearby developments, the spoils of the hospital of pilgrims are under twenty years of meritorious, but discontinuous, archaeological effort should be rewarded, at least, with a visit.
The first travel guide which has news, Codex Calixtinus (attributed to Pope Callistus II), already referred to this hospital, mid-XII century, as one of the villages dotted along the Camino de Santiago. Together in a treaty the vicissitudes of the pilgrimage route was not a minor issue, it is estimated that in the Middle Ages between 200.000 and 500.000 each year as pilgrims faced difficult journey. The traveler who approaches to this unique archaeological site can hardly understand, in view of these foundations recovered from oblivion, the growing importance during this century shelter for pilgrims. Information panels placed by the Government of Aragon speak for those forced to mute stones for centuries, but it is worth recalling here a passage from Codex Calixtinus especially clarifier:
"Three columns are particularly, extremely useful, that the Lord established in this world, for the maintenance of its poor, namely: Jerusalem Hospital, el Hospital of Mont Joux (in the Alps) and the Hospital of Santa Cristina in Somport. These hospitals are located at points of real need. It is holy places, Temples of God; reclamation sites for the blessed pilgrims, rest to the needy, relief for patients, salvation of the dead and help the living. Whoever built these holy places, undoubtedly, be in possession of the Kingdom of God "
The Dove "designer"
The hospital is confusing paternity. Mainly attributed to the momentum of the King Sancho el Mayor of Pamplona late eleventh century, although some authors suggest an origin through the Templar Order of the Holy Sepulchre. And legend, Always legend. According to this, the initiative was two French pilgrims, Arnovio and Sineval, they were surprised-road Compostela- by a violent blizzard on top of the port that separates France from Spain. Numb with cold and looking close to death had been entrusted to Santa Cristina. Emerged from the fog as if by magic a little hut where they were expected to provide food for hunger and a fire to keep warm. Grateful to the Holy, promised to build a hospital for pilgrims in the same place. A white dove will set out the outline with a cross of gold he carried in his beak. Upon returning from Compostela, The pilgrims got down to work, primal lifting hospital. Since then, a dove with a cross on the peak was the emblem of the hostel, that would take care of monks of the order of St. Augustine.
Grateful to the Holy, promised to build a hospital for pilgrims in the same place. A white dove will set out the outline with a cross of gold he carried in his beak.
A Augustinian canons were followed in front of hospital, early seventeenth century, Dominican Fathers, also leave recorded that dove into the stone of his convent in Jaca. The traveler can see for yourself approaching the capital of Jacetania (twenty-minute drive from Candanchú). Today, the old convent is the College of the Sisters of Charity of Saint Anne, next to Paseo de Winter. There, on the front door, are carved the emblem of the late hospital and pray that saved the lives of two French pilgrims: "Santa Cristina ora pro nobis".
Eight glasses of wine a day
But back to Somport. Travelers could spend three days in hospital, even if they were sick were evacuated to a mule, downhill, to the nearby village of Canfranc. The menu was served monks tonic. For lunch, soup and two glasses of wine; in food, soup again, now accompanied meat with vegetables and three glasses of wine; and dinner, vegetables and meat and… Guess what? Three glasses of wine! With such a diet is not surprising that the monks had to put a limit on the stay of the pilgrims not to convert the shelter in a shed.
Travelers could spend three days in hospital, even if they were sick were evacuated to a mule, downhill, to the nearby village of Canfranc.
In the thirteenth century, the monastery hospital reached its peak, enriched by papal parcels extended their dominions to the south of France villas, Navarra, Soria, Aragon and Castile to. At that time ran the hospital setting ten monks under the command of a prior. All the enclave came to have a Romanesque church, a monastery attached to the temple, cemetery, Pilgrims Hospital (which was at least eight rooms), of prior residence and the Chapel of Santa Barbara, located at the bottom, antigo bridge next to the bed of the ravine spanned the.
The rebel monk
What you can see today the traveler to make trips to Candanchú of which he was so renowned enclave? The work started 1987, currently led by the historian and archaeologist José Luis Ona, have brought to light some of the remains of the Romanesque church (next to the apse, its walls are nearly four feet high); of the crypt and the inn was built in the sixteenth century, hospital in decline, as a source of extra income; and the layout of the streets that bound some buildings with other. The same water leaks, from nearby residential areas now, that threaten this archaeological find and brought the head to the canons, that they managed to channel runoff (the stormwater drainage) through drains that can still be seen.
The wars of religion with the Albigensian (the Cathars the other side of the Pyrenees) Bearn and French Protestants mark the beginning of the decline of the hospital of Santa Cristina from the XVI century. Philip II sent troops to the border to keep out heretics and all monks, but one that remains to seal, are evacuated to Jaca. The palace where they were housed until 1597 No trace, it was demolished to build the Citadel, today an emblem of the city Huesca. The monks are then transferred to the monastery of Monte Aragon higher order of Dominicans. One, Fray Luis Beguer?a, resists and pay their disobedience to jail.
The lace comes with fire 1706 result of the strife of the War of Succession that clinched the Bourbons to the Spanish throne. From the ashes of "tribal Unun mundi"-one of three (hospitals) World- reborn only inn, which was rented pasture with annexes. Associations like Amigos del Camino de Santiago de Jaca, struggling to not lose the memory of the late and illustrious guest house, now calling on the Government of Aragon to build next to the original location a hostel for pilgrims to carry on the glorious past of the hospital in Santa Cristina de Somport. Politicians, as usual, have the last word.
The road
Huesca From there take the N-330, passing through the port Monrepós (Eye works), to Jaca, separated by less than 30 Candanchú miles. Before coming to the winter season, just past the Rioseta barracks and known as "Russian Bridge" we must take a left turn (is indicated) otherwise we end up in Astún. The ruins are on a promontory on the right side of the road just before reaching the hotel Tobazo.
A nap
In the ski resort should opt for accommodation provided by hotels Edelweiss, Located just steps from the chair of Tobazo and remnants of the old hospital (the 44 a 74 bed and breakfast euro), and Tobazo, located near the anterior (the 35 a 100 EUR, also with breakfast included). Before traveling should be informed of the opening days, they tend to match his season with the ski.
A table set
In the very Candanchú, offers are limited (especially in summer). The Restaurante El Sarrio (Telephone. 974-373180), in their own road to France, is a good place to sample cuisine Huesca (ajoarriero cod and the lamb are our suggestions). In the nearby town of Canfranc (that alone is worth a visit for its extraordinary railway station, although that proposal was left for another time), recommend Sisas House restaurant (eye, Canfranc people is, a little further down towards Jaca), offering family recipes where industry game dishes (Menu out of twelve euros). If the traveler has a fine palate, worth a visit Fight Restaurante del Hotel Santa Cristina (indicated on the road between Canfranc Candanchú and recognizable because it is an imposing mansion). Tasting Menu 25 EUR.
Highly Recommended
For mountain lovers, Aragon valley is full of rewarding excursions. Past trips recommended (summer, yes) the Anayet peak ascent (2.545 meters). It is part of a small parking area near a bridge on the right road, Shortly before reaching the beautiful circus Ríoseta. Just go the Canal Roya and worth trying the tour. At the end of the channel, zic-zac hard drives to the climber at the foot of the mountain lakes (Pyrenean lakes) The Anayet. To reach the top you have to save the hill, a tow unfit for those who suffer from vertigo and a small chimney without difficulty but that requires using one's hands. In the small summit, if the clouds do not prevent, you can enjoy magnificent views of the Midi d'Ossau. About four hours walk from the parking.
If you want to dig into the past of this place: "History of the Monastery of Santa Cristina real Summa Port aspx, order of preachers in the city of Jaca ", the Lalana Francisco. Instituto de Estudios Altoaragoneses. 1989.
